0.812 King Pin reamer

PeteCruz2715

PeteCruz2715

Member
I saw an old thread about this but didn't really find a good answer (other than taking my spindles to a machine shop for honing. Tried that and got back screwed up parts!!) Does know where to find a suitable reamer for Model A king pins? I see where Speedway offers a 0.812 reamer but it would have to be modified to ensure the ream is straight. Anyone doing such a mod?
Thanks!!
 
Brattons has them in their catalog. Not cheap!!!!! Perhaps you could borrow one form a local club member. The two clubs that I'm in each have a club tool box or certain members that will loan tools to members.
 
I use an adjustable reamer with a pilot guide on it. That gets them close and in line. I stop while they are still a tad too tight, then, using the old king pin - the part that was in the axle, I burnish the bushes till they are right. Fiddley, but IMO, short of expensive equipment and relying on someone else to get it right, it is the best way.
 
kbrandt said:
Snyder's also has .8125" king pin reamers. They're not cheap, but worked on my car.
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I used a Snyder's reamer and it worked great ! Buying the tool was probably cheaper than contracting the job out. Did the whole job in the garage with no problem - but I do have a hydraulic press which helped. There is a sequence which must be followed to ensure bore concentricity. First press in one new bushing than run the reamer through the old remaining bushing. Then press in the other new bushing and run the reamer through the first installed bushing. Use cutting fluid, go slow, and check frequently for a chip that might be hung up on one of the flute edges to avoid the potential of dragging the chip and scoring the surface. Once you develop a method to press or pull the bushings in place, the rest of the job is a no brainer. Go for it !!
 
PeteCruz2715 said:
I saw an old thread about this but didn't really find a good answer (other than taking my spindles to a machine shop for honing. Tried that and got back screwed up parts!!) Does know where to find a suitable reamer for Model A king pins? I see where Speedway offers a 0.812 reamer but it would have to be modified to ensure the ream is straight. Anyone doing such a mod?
Thanks!!
Click to expand...

How does a honing operation give screwed-up parts? Did they remove too much material from the bushings, -or something else??
 
If they messed it up did you give them a chance to redo the job correctly?
Doesn't anybody in your club have the reamer?
 
King pin reamers are 0.814" Diameter which provides approximately 0.002" clearance fit of the 0.812" diameter pins in their bushings.

 
One thing that I don't believe has been covered. Henry Ford, when training new mechanics, specified that the reamer be held vertically in a vice. The work was then inserted and turned against the the cutting edges of the flutes. It's kind of a long slow process that can produce very good results when done with patience and care. Don't try to rush it.
Another thing, I hope you own and can read a 1" micrometer. You'll be using one to set up the flutes on an adjustable reamer. If I have a lot of stock to remove, I "sneak up" on the final dimension . Take it out to .810 and then a final cut to .812 or what ever matches the diameter of the kingpin. This is to avoid straining the flutes backwards and making the reamer cut oversize.
Terry
 
If they make a spindle bolt reamer reamer a fixed size then the spindle bolt will have to be the proper fixed size for it to do a push fit. If I was purchasing a reamer for a bolt that was 0.8125" then I would look for a fixed reamer that would give me a guaranteed .001" to .0015 fit. Now that may not be a push fit until a person tries it to find out. Reamers can be custom made to any size but that gets expensive too.

I look for the expandable spiral flute type king pin reamers with the long pilot if I can find them for a reaming job. I've used the regular straight flute sliding adjustable cutter reamers for single bushings but they don't pilot very well and a person has to expand them in minute increments to keep them from chattering and ruining the finish. It takes a lot of time to get the right fit.
 
To all who've asked, the machine shop removed too much metal from the Upper bushings. Not sure how that happened. Also, Bratton's does not carry them (at the moment.) Apparently Snyder's has them (at the moment.) I had checked EVERYWHERE before posting so I'm guessing they only list them when they've got them. I actually got a response and someone here and he is selling me one at a good price. If it isn't what I'm hoping for I'll definitely buy from Snyders! Thanks for the replies!!
 
Go buy a set from HF , take your time & they work fine, plus other jobs you can use them on, s/box bushes, dist bushes , Then your mates will want you to do jobs for them , Derek in NZ wishing was at turlock
 
If they didn't do it right the first time, it leads a person to wonder the result if they lick the calf over again.

They may not have furnished the bushings either.

This is why I always get the proper tools and do it myself.
 
rotorwrench said:
If they didn't do it right the first time, it leads a person to wonder the result if they lick the calf over again.

They may not have furnished the bushings either.

This is why I always get the proper tools and do it myself.
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Yes, but I'm under the impression the job has already been paid for. Also the shop should be able to have a chance to do it right even if they need to find or make a new bush. If a machine shop can not fit a king pin to a spindle don't let them do any work!
 
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Two things that may come into play:

It's possible new king pins are not that correct diameter. I have an old .814" reamer and it has produced excellent results every time. That said, I do try to use NOS or NORS king pin sets that are correct from the start.

I never measured the king pins I've used and, I guess maybe I should have.
 
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