Changing 36 transmission mount

[36coupe]

I’m slowly learning that changing the transmission and switching to hydraulic brakes is not as simple as bolting up the transmission and mounting the 39 brake pedals.

My 36 frame I think has a solid transmission mounts. I think I have the proper bracket change over to rubber mounts. I’m using a 37 transmission that I plan to swap in the internals from a 46 transmission.

I wanted to confirm with you guys I’m on the right track.

I was planning on using 5/16 grade 8 bolts to mount the transmission bracket and 37 steering box bracket. Is that an acceptable way of securing the brackets?

 

[TerryOH]

Why change the rear transmission mount? Have you looked at what the Early Ford V8 Garage has for mounting a master cylinder?

 

[johndee138]

I have an Early V8 Garage master cylinder mount for a 36 that I couldn't use after I swapped my stock trans for a T170. Send me a DM through FB and I can get you some pix. Should work just right for your application.

 

[Mart]

Your proposal to use 5/16" bolts sounds reasonable.
An alternative is to use the 36 mount on the later trans. They are all interchangeable.

 

[blucar]

My '36 has a 47-48 column shift trans with the stock 36 rear mount. I eliminated the stock 36 floor mounted parking brake in lieu of a '40 under dash hand brake.. Everything bolted together like it came from Ford that way. Oh by the way, my column shift is on the left side of the column.. More user friendly.

 

[36coupe]

Why change the rear transmission mount? Have you looked at what the Early Ford V8 Garage has for mounting a master cylinder?

I have a 37 transmission and I think it takes the rubber mounts.

Your proposal to use 5/16" bolts sounds reasonable.
An alternative is to use the 36 mount on the later trans. They are all interchangeable.

I only have a real rusty 36 transmission that sat decades in the mud. I’m using a 37 transmission.
I thought that the rubber transmission mounts give less vibration than the solid mount like the 36 has. I have a chance to change it now when it is easy to reach.

 

[cas3]

The 36 mount has rubber around the rear bearing retainer. you just swap that out with the 37 case, then it bolts into place on your frame, no modifications

 

[36coupe]

The 36 mount has rubber around the rear bearing retainer. you just swap that out with the 37 case, then it bolts into place on your frame, no modifications

My car did not come with the drivetrain and I picked up a 37 rear and transmission. I plan to use later Flathead. I have a 35 or 36 transmission that was literally buried in mud for two decades or more, it’s more or less in the scrap metal pile. If I change them out to the later style there’s supposed to be less vibration in the drivetrain. This is all trial and error for me and I go on the suggestions I feel are the best from the Ford Barn.
I appreciate all the help and suggestions.

 

[V8COOPMAN]

My car did not come with the drivetrain and I picked up a 37 rear and transmission. I plan to use later Flathead. I have a 35 or 36 transmission that was literally buried in mud for two decades or more, it’s more or less in the scrap metal pile. If I change them out to the later style there’s supposed to be less vibration in the drivetrain. This is all trial and error for me and I go on the suggestions I feel are the best from the Ford Barn.
I appreciate all the help and suggestions.

Lindsay ....Just in case you do not realize it, ALL of the '32-'48 transmission cases have the same six threaded holes in the rear of the case to accept any of the removable rear mounts, which are actually called BEARING RETAINERS.

BEWARE....that thee '42-'48 retainer will also bolt-on to your trans, but it's mount to the frame spacing is only 8" wide instead of the 10" spacing that you will need for that bolt-in frame bracket. The one you need will have a #78-7085 number showing in the area of the six bolt holes, the key number being "78". DD

The '36 Retainer BELOW

'37-'40 Bearing Retainer BELOW

Shown Mounted to Trans BELOW

.

 

[cas3]

Coopman...I believe the retainer you show on top is a 33-34

 

[36coupe]

Lindsay ....Just in case you do not realize it, ALL of the '32-'48 transmission cases have the same six threaded holes in the rear of the case to accept any of the removable rear mounts, which are actually called BEARING RETAINERS.


Yes I’m aware of that but I did not know the name of it. I have an old rusty 36 transmission but it is really rough and buried under 2 feet of snow. I am under the impression that the 37 and up mounts are superior to the 36 mounts as far as vibration and smoothness of the drivetrain. The alterations to the frame of removing one set of mounts and installing a new set is not a big deal.


BEWARE....that thee '42-'48 retainer will also bolt-on to your trans, but it's mount to the frame spacing is only 8" wide instead of the 10" spacing that you will need for that bolt-in frame bracket. The one you need will have a #78-7085 number showing in the area of the six bolt holes, the key number being "78". DD

That I did not know that, which is good to know. I have toyed with using a 3sp column shift earlier.




Shown Mounted to Trans BELOW

.

Thanks more good information. It fun learning new stuff here everyday. I think the 78 is buried under crusty grease.

 

[V8COOPMAN]

Coopman...I believe the retainer you show on top is a 33-34

cas .....I was reluctant to post that pic because I wasn't SURE! Thanks for straightening me out!! Nevertheless, my main intent was to point-out to anyone that didn't know, that ANY retainer could be swapped onto ANY trans case. DD
.

 

[V8COOPMAN]

Thanks more good information. It fun learning new stuff here everyday. I think the 78 is buried under crusty grease.

BELOW is a common area to find the number on a "78" retainer. DD

 

[cas3]

If the OP is not familiar with Mac's wonderful site, he should be. I believe there are photos of all the mounts there. Again, if you have a 36 frame, no reason to re engineer the mount, just use the correct part. Here's Mac Vp's link http://www.vanpeltsales.com/

 

[V8COOPMAN]

If the OP is not familiar with Mac's wonderful site, he should be. I believe there are photos of all the mounts there. Again, if you have a 36 frame, no reason to re engineer the mount, just use the correct part. Here's Mac Vp's link http://www.vanpeltsales.com/

MOST-Certainly.....NOT to be confused with "Mac's" Auto Parts in Florida.

Mac VanPelt 100 %! DD
.

 

[36coupe]

If the OP is not familiar with Mac's wonderful site, he should be. I believe there are photos of all the mounts there. Again, if you have a 36 frame, no reason to re engineer the mount, just use the correct part. Here's Mac Vp's link http://www.vanpeltsales.com/

I appreciate the advice, the car that I have is a rescued street rod project. It came with no drivetrain at all. I picked up a 37 drivetrain minus the engine. I am modifying the frame to except hydraulic brakes and 37 steering box.

I am also on somewhat of a limited budget. I still have lots of stuff to purchase. Being from Canada anything that cost $100 USD, will cost me $200 CAD by the time I factor in shipping and exchange. That’s a general rule of thumb Canadians use when looking at US catalogs/websites.

I don’t have to purchase anything other than the rubber mounts and I’m sure I read on this website that there is an improvement reducing drive train vibration.
That to me is plus plus.

Thanks

 

[OldGold360]

I found this mount for my ‘36 pickup. I’m not sure what it’s application is but it is the 37-40 mount but with the mounting provisions for the parking brake the 36 uses. Maybe someone can tell you what this mount is from.

 

[cas3]

Interesting...never seen that before myself. Big truck, or cabover ?

 

[36coupe]

I cleaned up and painted the transmission mount. I measured centre to centre and diagonally from the engine mounts. I drilled out the old rivets for the two 1936 mounts.
The two lower front holes from the 1936 and the 1937 mounts lined up. It was a very easy switch.

Attaching the front end and swapping the steering box mount is next.

 

[Detonator]

I just did this conversion last weekend: '37 saddle mount into a '35 chassis, using a '39 trans and Early V8 garage juice-brake M/C conversion.


Ford switched to the saddle-and-donuts and it provided a superior ride. This conversion was pretty straight-forward, I used my original '35 rear bearing retainer because, besides providing the additional cushioning of the vulcanized '35 mount and dropping directly onto the saddle, it gave me an e-brake mount and kept it in the stock location.


I did have to clearance the saddle a bit for the Early V8 conversion's brake pedal rod, but it was no biggie.


The Early V8's parking brake cable kit bolted in nicely, too -- and cleared the new saddle donuts with no issue. It does require using the shorter '41-'48 rear brake cable loop. Make sure you get this in place before torquing down your rear drums.