pop-out switch vs on-off switch

I

ilangford

Junior Member
Still a newbie... my '30 A (late) has a on-off switch but in Les Andrews book and in parts catalog, all I see referenced is pop-out or re-pop switches... mine doesn't pop in and out. I have no idea if what I have is some after-market switch or what? It is a keyed switch. I have not yet attempted to trace wiring but clearing the wiring is not original.
Thoughts?

Sign me,
:confused:
 
When the key is turned on, the switch button pops out to activate the ignition ground path to the distributor. When the button is pushed back in, the ground path is opened deactivating the ignition.

These switches are not currently reproduced so a lot of folks use other designs that have an outward appearance of the electro-lock design but their exposed appearance makes them an obvious non original replacement. Originals come up on flea-pay now and then
 
If you want original go for it......I did for my 31 Victoria Fine Point with an original pop out.....for a driver like my 29 it makes no difference.
 
Mine looks Original, but just turns, no popping in or out. Is this how the re-pops are? The key is very worn and needs a copy made, but so far, nobody can re-cut me a key. Stupid me, lost the spare.

Regards
Bill
 
Correct me if I am wrong but I thought that the original pop-out switch connects the coil to the distributor through the armored cable and grounds the distributor when off (pushed in). The wiring for the original switch has the coil hot all the time. I think the replacement switch is better because it can be wired to power the coil when on and power down the coil when off. On my car I have an accessory position so that I can turn on my GPS and other accessories without turning on the ignition.

If you are going to go for a completely original car then the pop-out switch is the way to go.
 
The coil ground path to the points is the circuit I was referring to. No ground path, no circuit. The coil power side is connected to the battery all the time but it's not hot until the switch is on and the points are closed.
 
I just had Dick Crabtree rebuild 7 original popouts for me. If you are interested in one, email me or contact Dick here on Fordbarn. I personally like original "stuff" and his rebuilds are outstanding, both cosmetically and functionally.
 
v8fordman said:
I just had Dick Crabtree rebuild 7 original popouts for me. If you are interested in one, email me or contact Dick here on Fordbarn. I personally like original "stuff" and his rebuilds are outstanding, both cosmetically and functionally.
Click to expand...

I have two rebuilt pop-outs from Dick Crabtree and am very happy with them. When the switch is pushed in (ignition off and grounded), the ignition cannot be hot wired without removing the armored cable from the distributor. If the armored cable clamp is installed under head stud #8 as the car was originally produced, this makes it very difficult for anyone to start the car without a key.

3 of the 4 Model A’s I;ve owned since the 60’s had replacement Briggs & Stratton on-off ignition switches installed. I believe these were sold by Ford as replacements for failed pop-out switches.

My two current cars are drivers, but I enjoy having the original equipment in them.

Good luck -
Jim
 
When I bought my '29A coupe in 1968, it had a replacement switch without the popout feature. I was driving it daily, much of the time in all parts of the city, and decided to get an aftermarket popout switch. I even figured out a way to match the key to both the passenger door lock and the trunk lock (learned a little bit about locksmithing). To me, it was worth it in feeling secure.
 
from the Archives

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=109652

273508
 
The original Popout Switches have several special features of value:
> The key can be removed while driving the car without switching off the ignition;
>With the button in, the ignition is off and grounded to prevent theft of the car;
>The armored cable has an inner armor wound in the opposite direction so the ignition cannot be jumped with a probe;
>In 1930 & '31 the Popout key was originally the same as the door lock key;
>The Popout's spring loaded brass contact with the bus bar inside of the distributor makes a positive contact, and the cable can be unscrewed making it easy to remove the distributor.
I have OEM Popout switches in both of my Model "A's" and they have given reliable service.




 
John Dayhuff said:
What sorta ball park price does it cost to get an original rebuilt?


Thanks,
Click to expand...


Dick Crabtree
POB 33
Pickstown, SD 57367

(605) 487-7229

He sold me a rebuilt one outright with two original keys (original key blanks are pricey, $15 each) two years ago. He keyed the ignition to match my passenger door at the same time. The total was somewhere around $250. I would think a rebuild would cost much less. He does awesome work.

He’s a very nice guy. Give him a call.
 
shew01 said:
Dick Crabtree
POB 33
Pickstown, SD 57367

(605) 487-7229

He sold me a rebuilt one outright with two original keys (original key blanks are pricey, $15 each) two years ago. He keyed the ignition to match my passenger door at the same time. The total was somewhere around $250. I would think a rebuild would cost much less. He does awesome work.

He’s a very nice guy. Give him a call.
Click to expand...


OK, thanks for the info.
 
>In 1930 & '31 the Popout key was originally the same as the door lock key;

This statement is not entirely true. According to the Restoration and Judging Standards this first became available only on the Victoria in November of 1930. Then in December of 1930, this was extended to the Deluxe Delivery, Special Delivery and Panel Deliveries. It was after March 1931 that all vehicles used the same key for all locks, including the spare tire lock.
 
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