36 temperature gauge?
- Thread starter RickMcK
- Start date
ford38v8
Well-known member
There are those who say they can replace the fluid, but there are many reports that the replacement fluid bleaches out to clear. That repair is done on otherwise intact units, so I’d say you’re out of luck.
The good news is that there are good functional units available if you have the means to buy them, and I believe they are interchangeable with those of Fords up to 1939. When you find one, be sure to calibrate the scribe mark on the glass with the corresponding boiling point mark on your dash gauge.
The good news is that there are good functional units available if you have the means to buy them, and I believe they are interchangeable with those of Fords up to 1939. When you find one, be sure to calibrate the scribe mark on the glass with the corresponding boiling point mark on your dash gauge.
deuce lover
Well-known member
They can be repaired but since the line into the glass sight tube has come loose the unit will have to be replaced. You might call Williamson's Instruments in Arkansas or John Wolf Co in Ohio and talk to them. The 35 and 36 will interchange,but the 37-39 will not as the frame is different.Here are pics of the 35-36 (left pic)and the 38(right pic) so you can see the differences.The 37-39 are identical except for the face.The Ford Store in CA has NOS ones but they are pricey.Do not buy the repo ones .Those are made in Argentina and the red fluid fades over time.Both pics are of NOS temp units I once had.
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petehoovie
Well-known member
Blastfromthepast
Senior Member
I had some success repairing mine.
This is how I did it.
First locate a glass bulb. I’ve seen them on eBay. You may have to buy a used unit for the part. Next go to a furnace parts store and buy a thermocouple. The thermocouple has a thin copper line and cut off about 1”. This is going to act as a splice between the two broken parts.
Next cut the thermostat line. Use a roto tool to carefully cut the line and not crimp it. If you crimp the line you will have a hard time opening the line so fluid can move through it. Next clean the thermostat line with emery cloth so that it’s clean enough to solder. Next flux the line and tin that area. Next take the thermostat line and insert the tin area into the piece of thermocouple. You may have to slightly enlarge the thermocouple line with tiny drill bit or tool that works for you. Now solder it into place. Do it the same way with the other end to bridge the two lines together. Be patient but it can be done. I repaired my thermostat that way and it works fine. This also works splicing and bridging the thermostat line anywhere it broke. Remember, be patient, Blast
This is how I did it.
First locate a glass bulb. I’ve seen them on eBay. You may have to buy a used unit for the part. Next go to a furnace parts store and buy a thermocouple. The thermocouple has a thin copper line and cut off about 1”. This is going to act as a splice between the two broken parts.
Next cut the thermostat line. Use a roto tool to carefully cut the line and not crimp it. If you crimp the line you will have a hard time opening the line so fluid can move through it. Next clean the thermostat line with emery cloth so that it’s clean enough to solder. Next flux the line and tin that area. Next take the thermostat line and insert the tin area into the piece of thermocouple. You may have to slightly enlarge the thermocouple line with tiny drill bit or tool that works for you. Now solder it into place. Do it the same way with the other end to bridge the two lines together. Be patient but it can be done. I repaired my thermostat that way and it works fine. This also works splicing and bridging the thermostat line anywhere it broke. Remember, be patient, Blast
Blast thanks for the ideas. First I have the glass tube I think I can fuse it back on to the copper tube with a micro totch. I understand how to cut and solder the tubing. A piece of brass tubing would also work as the coupleing. Yes?
My next question is what about the expansion fluid, and the "magic red indicator fluid"? Somewhere I read something about filling the CU tube with ether, and putting the bulb in dry ice so the tube can be soldered without the volatilizing the ether. I know this sounds tricky. I'm willing to give it a try, but what to use for the red liquid?
Sent from my LM-V405 using Tapatalk
My next question is what about the expansion fluid, and the "magic red indicator fluid"? Somewhere I read something about filling the CU tube with ether, and putting the bulb in dry ice so the tube can be soldered without the volatilizing the ether. I know this sounds tricky. I'm willing to give it a try, but what to use for the red liquid?
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Blastfromthepast
Senior Member
I’m not knowledgeable how to replace or work with the fluid.
The one I repaired was working at the time I broke it so I knew the fluid was good.
Yes brass would work but I found that the thermocouple was very close to the size of the line
A working replace sometimes show’s up on eBay.
The one I repaired was working at the time I broke it so I knew the fluid was good.
Yes brass would work but I found that the thermocouple was very close to the size of the line
A working replace sometimes show’s up on eBay.
Charlie ny
BANNED
John Wolf did mine.....not cheap but primo job.....Accurate and no issue with the red stuff....2 years and still going strong
Charlie ny
Charlie ny