oil pan gasket sealer?

Bill Goddard

Bill Goddard

Well-known member
I have a bad oil pan gasket leak and I need to replace it. I can't find a reference to an oil pan gasket sealer. Would there be a problem if I used the blue gasket maker on both sides of a cork gasket? Does anyone use any kind of sealer on the gasket?
Thanks Bill G
 
Don't need any with the cork But I use a very small amount of Indian Shellac from auto Parts. Don't use blue.
 
I use a dab of Indian Head shellac in a couple of places just to hold the gasket in place. If you use the silicone sealant on both sides there is a possibility of excess sealant squeezing out inside the pan and at some point breaking off and getting into the engine itself. Also you or someone in the future will have a devil of a time getting the pan off if silicone sealant is used on the whole pan gasket. The cork gasket will seal fine dry as long as it is not torqued too much causing it to distort.
Here is a link to an article that does a very nice job of explaining the steps to install a pan gasket.
https://modelatouringclub.files.wordpress.com/2017/03/leakless-pan-gasket-article.pdf
 
The silicone, (blue, black, grey, red) will lubricate the cork allowing you to push it out and cut it with the pan. I use it but put it on barely tighter than finger tight maybe 1 ft lbs. Just to the point it pushes out some sealant and the gasket doesn't move. Then wait 24hr and tighten up to very light torque of about 5 ft lbs. this is not an approved method. you are supposed to use a minimal amount of sealant at ends of the cork at the mains and the rest dry then they wont cut with the required torque. I have used Indian shelec/peramtex high-tack. I get 3 out of 4 success with it. Playing the slipping and cutting game can be just as troublesome or more so. Also you need to inspect the pan and any bolt holes that are bent up by previous over tightening need to be flattened out. after a fresh rebuild and seal my car likes to drip a bit of oil out the rear main untill it gets low on the oil range.


I have shelac on hand and use it for head gaskets and other stuff that comes up. I have tried it as all engine seals before and got back a couple of leaks on a motorcycle. It is a great product. I just prefer silicone for oil seals.
 
Last edited:
a0e9906a-2ca2-42a6-8bcc-6b1b80f40e74_1.1354d04a2bc63784fd0409173f057e5c.jpg
 
It's been almost two years since I had the pan off, but I either put the gasket on dry or a thin smear of Hylomar blue sealer that I let dry before putting on the gasket. The motor was on the engine stand, so upside down, thus easier than in place. If the gasket is used this way and "glued" to the pan, it should work, even from underneath, if you use the jacking stud method. Rather than juggling the pan, fighting the rope seals, and trying to start the pan bolts. One important thing is to make sure the pan flange surfaces are straight, so that they don't make the gasket fill in too big of a gap due to crookedness.
 
Railcarmover said:
View attachment 400979
Click to expand...

I use Three Bond 1211 for aircraft engine cases as well as a silk thread. I also use it on helicopter transmission parting surfaces where there is only a shim and no gasket. The key is to only use a skim coat of the stuff on the parting surfaces. I let is set for a time then install the cover. There is very little squeeze out if done conservatively.

On aircraft engines, I would get a very small amount of this material in the oil pick up screen right after the initial break in run but they have no gasket so there tends to be a little more squeeze out with the torques used to hold the case and cylinders together.

A cork type gasket doesn't generally need much sealant so the minimal coating should be OK. Oil pans aren't torqued up on cork compared to a paper gasket. The cork type gaskets generally require a few light retorques in service to get them completely seated without damaging the cork gasket.
 
Coming from engine building and auto industry it's frustrating that everyone wants to put something on a gasket (that's what a gasket is for). I put a little "High Tech" just to hold the gasket in place and around the rear seal to hold it in. That's it! My "Patina" pickup had blue gasket sealer ousing out of all sides which defeats the purpose of a gasket. Just my opinion from 50 years in the industry.
 
MrBruce said:
Coming from engine building and auto industry it's frustrating that everyone wants to put something on a gasket (that's what a gasket is for). I put a little "High Tech" just to hold the gasket in place and around the rear seal to hold it in. That's it! My "Patina" pickup had blue gasket sealer ousing out of all sides which defeats the purpose of a gasket. Just my opinion from 50 years in the industry.
Click to expand...

The belt-and-suspenders approach of using both a gasket and RTV (there's a reason it's called "gasket maker" right there on the label) is amusing. (Amusing until you're trying to get it off, anyway.)
 
Bruce of MN said:
It's been almost two years since I had the pan off, but I either put the gasket on dry or a thin smear of Hylomar blue sealer that I let dry before putting on the gasket. The motor was on the engine stand, so upside down, thus easier than in place. If the gasket is used this way and "glued" to the pan, it should work, even from underneath, if you use the jacking stud method. Rather than juggling the pan, fighting the rope seals, and trying to start the pan bolts. One important thing is to make sure the pan flange surfaces are straight, so that they don't make the gasket fill in too big of a gap due to crookedness.
Click to expand...
I also use Hylomar Blue on cork and paper gaskets (e.g., gooseneck, water pump, lower water inlet fitting). Apply a very thin layer to both sides of the gasket, not to the metal. I have found over the years that it does not harden like other RTV products and is pretty easy to remove with a simple scraper.

JayJay
 
Use #2 Permatex at the gasket rear seal joint, a dab on the front seal ends, and a few smears on the rails to hold igasket in place while setting the pan.
 
Check the bolt holes along the side for distortion. Over tightening the bolts can cause them to proud of the gasket surface of the pan contributing to leaks.
 
Hylomar is nice to hold in place because it never cures and cleans up with solvent. Use silicone if you hate the next owner.
 
Very thin layer of Anaerobic sealer between the rear cap shims (that includes if you split the shims or added to the pack), cap and block. Dab sealer where the rear cap cork meets the gasket in the groove, both sides of the pan gasket. Maybe a little grease on the pan gasket, both sides. If the rope seal at the front is left long enough, shouldn't need any sealer, it will pinch the pan gasket.
 
I use the paper gasket. If you do use silicone do what Mike does in post #4. I use that technique with the paper gasket. It is something I learned while working on boats. If you have a very thin coating of oil on the metal surfaces, the silicone will not stick and can be removed easily next time you remove the pan.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top