Coolant flow diagram

Good morning boys,

Well lots of good info passed along overnight, thank you. I think you have answered all of my questions and I have all the info needed to proceed with the cooling system and EFI stuff.

Agreed, the EFI probably isn't as critical as I think, I am just trying to do things best I can for my first TBI conversion. Glad I asked about the heater core as I wasn't thinking about air pockets. Someone has put the shut-off valve on the water pump so I will move that to the head. And as the engine now has a chrome alternator on it there is no need for an Ammeter and I have a second gauge set so I was planning on putting a second temp gauge in the cluster so I can monitor both heads at the same time without a toggle switch.

A couple of pictures of the engine.

Cheers

https://www.dropbox.com/s/s315y6q3tgyml3h/IMG_1025.JPG?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ris3g2ng1soaf1g/IMG_1026.JPG?dl=0
 
Good grief! When I donned my spectacles, I could see "Resistor Required".

I was wondering as I had never seen that type of resistor set up before.

Thanks for your input.
 
As I am electronics tech, it's what I had in my supplies to use the coil for my temporary startup to test the engine and newly machined Chevy distributor, truck will be 12 volts when it's done. Ultimately I'll be putting a GM TBI setup on this and the coil will be replaced.

Cheers
 
Nice I can see a quick vacuum hose plug by using a small glass in line fuse. Question are the heads the hard to find in the US the aluminum Canadian version?
 
"A couple of pictures of the engine."


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Ronnieroadster said:
Nice I can see a quick vacuum hose plug by using a small glass in line fuse. Question are the heads the hard to find in the US the aluminum Canadian version?
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I don't think they are aluminum, I should scratch the paint off to confirm, but they are the "high compression" EAB heads, I think 7:1 instead of 6.8. :rolleyes: the engine casting number is C1BA, which I think makes it a Canadian 1951 8BA engine, and some say, they came with the Merc crank. I won't know for sure until I pull the heads.

And yes, glass fuses make great temp vacuum line plugs...sometimes permanent. :o

Cheers

PS Pete, thanks for inserting the pictures...I don't have the patience to resize all of my pics to conform to the sites size limits.
 
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petehoovie said:
What's the story on the dipstick & tube there on the right side rear of the engine?
Click to expand...

That's for the 1987 F-150 AOD installed behind the flattie, connected to the '94 Explorer 8.8 3.73 LS rear end. :) Made shifter linkage from 2 old tie rod ends from and old snowmobile, Heim Joints, works great. This is quite a worldly truck as it has the above drive line, '78 Firebird brake hoses connected to the new Mustang II front end. An Explorer brake system MC and pedals, '74 Firebird tilt steering column with a grafted auto shifter from a 87 Astro Van, Toyota MR2 electric power steering, '98 Ford Ranger seats, brake pedal from the same Explorer, throttle pedal from an old '94 F-150 I had sitting on the property, '87 GM van fuel tank....custom built e-brake cable setup with the original pull handle...I think cables from 70's Ford full size...can't recall right now....

It's been an amazingly fun project to date, currently working on the GM TBI system and built an adapter plate today for the TBI to Fenton 4 bbl manifold ... fun fun fun ...

cheers
 
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A lot of Canadian Heads are aluminum but this likely doesn't affect what is needed for this question.

Flatheads with their dual cooling systems do pose a bit of a problem for an ECU that needs only one coolant temp probe for the whole engine. The only place that the coolant mixes together is in the top of the radiator tank. Installing a probe there would require installation of a bung in there but it could be done.

If the engine has a problem on one bank only then the system will eventually be overheated as a whole due to radiator circulation. One side heats up faster but the whole system suffers from that.
 
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