L100 Camshaft using 59ab valves

TomT/Williamsburg

TomT/Williamsburg

Well-known member
I have a 59ab motor, 4” crank, and I have an L100 camshaft that want to install in it. I have checked around and yes you can use adjustable lifters with this valve train but does anyone know what springs to use? Seems the stock valve springs will not cut it.

Thanks for any help you can give …..
 
TomT/Williamsburg said:
I have a 59ab motor, 4” crank, and I have an L100 camshaft that want to install in it. I have checked around and yes you can use adjustable lifters with this valve train but does anyone know what springs to use? Seems the stock valve springs will not cut it.

Thanks for any help you can give …..
Click to expand...

Tom:

I recall 'Ol Ron saying he used Lincoln Zephyr springs with the L100 with around 50 lbs of pressure. I am no expert, but I recall Ron saying this multiple times.

LZ springs use to be available @ Red's Headers, but I don't see them listed any longer.
 
I recently checked some springs out for Mac VanPelt . . . that can easily be setup for 50 - 70 lbs on the seat.

Give Mac a call - he should be able to take care of you. If I remember, the Zephyr type springs he has are about 75# at a 2.00" installed height . . . so you'll need more height than this for less pressure. My guess (away from my spring tester) is that an installed height of 2.100 to 2.125 would be about right.

Depending on your RPM expectations and build, I think anywhere from 50 - 65 lbs on the seat should do just fine.
 
I ran stock springs with a .050" sim. I recommend using 8ba valves and guides as they seal better, especially if Knurled. If you plan on running above 4500 for extended periods of time alittle more pressure, but for street. I've runt it up yo 5k with no float. seems the cam has some gentle ramps.
Gramps
 
I wish I had my dyno back sometimes . Put together a 276 8.5 CR 390 carb and run all the cams I have laying around. ot some weird ones from the 30's from Cleveland hone, and a bunch of un known's. i\m sure there are a few guys with more. One time Nieman Haller and I changed the cam in the stockcar in less than 2hrs. Probably could have done it faster iff we didn't have any beer. Best cam we ever run. Erson D 410 replaced a 400jr. Too bad it's not available anymore, big improvement.
Gramps
 
Tim Ayers said:
Tom:

I recall 'Ol Ron saying he used Lincoln Zephyr springs with the L100 with around 50 lbs of pressure. I am no expert, but I recall Ron saying this multiple times.

LZ springs use to be available @ Red's Headers, but I don't see them listed any longer.
Click to expand...


Michael Driskell at "3rd Gen Automotive" in Tennessee advertises the "Zephyr" springs, and at a VERY affordable price! DD


https://thirdgenauto.com/product/1932-50-ford-lincoln-zephyr-valve-springs-complete-set-of-16/


1-588.jpg

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Ask yourself, after spending a lot of money to build a hot rod engine that will go fast and sound keen, do you have enough self discipline or a rev limiter to keep the rpm under 4000?
50 lb. on the seat is NOT enough for an L100. 70 will get you to 5000.

If you want to find out what rpm a certain valve setup will do, make up a simple fixture from an old block that you can install just a cam and 2 valve assemblies. Make a cam snout adapter that will take a DC motor with speed control. Use a strobotach to watch the springs while you vary the cam speed up to valve float and beyond. The rpm can be read directly from the strobotach. While you are at it you can see spring flutter and harmonic frequencies. When testing, remember cam rpm is half engine rpm.
While street engines will get by with no spring dampers, they do increase spring life considerably.
 
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What's wrong with the Iskendarian 185G'S. I have a set on the MAX-1 in my 258" "Hot Rod" engine, and they seem to be fine. (I made a little "mistake" one day and saw 5500 RPM on the tach.)
 
I wonder why "KiWinUS" hasn't chimed in here yet; isn't he the guy that's constantly hawking his "L100" cams?
 
The Isky 185G's are just fine - they will give you about 75 - 80 lbs at 2.00" installed height. They are typically a lot more expensive than the ones from Mike at ThirdGen or Mac VanPelt. What I can't tell you is how well the aftermarket LZ springs hold up (over time). I pretty much run the 185G's on almost everything I build.

The LZ ones I tested from VanPelt came in about the same lbs at the same height as the 185G's. Like Pete, I tend to run more spring pressure than Ron - but I also tend to rev my engines to higher RPMs than 5000 on many occasions. I'd probably install the L100 at about 70-75 lbs for my style of driving - but ask Tony what he recommends.

The engine in my 32 has 100 lbs on the seat - but it also has a roller cam. I've been to about 6200 on it a few times . . . and it wasn't done yet . . . but my nerves were! LOL
 
Guy’s just for the record I have been in touch with Tom also a cam card with specs and recommended spring tension along with clearances come with every cam I send out. Cheers. Tony
 
What pressures do other cams need, is the L100 an exception needing more pressure than most?
For example, what would a 1007B need for max rpm in a small motor?
 
Yoyodyne said:
What pressures do other cams need, is the L100 an exception needing more pressure than most?
For example, what would a 1007B need for max rpm in a small motor?
Click to expand...

These questions are a bit hard to answer - as the overall component package is not known (on this site).

Example: running original light-weight non-adjustable lifters gives you a LOT lighter valve train than a new set of Isky solid adjustable lifters . . . with Johnson's somewhere in the middle. The valves can also make a big difference - size, material, stem diameter, head design, etc..

Also, what is 'max rpm?' . . . how far are you willing to spin the motor before it either lets go or you let go of the throttle? What rods are you running, what oiling system, what bearing clearances, whose crankshaft . . . steel main caps???? You get the point . . .

I would probably shoot for 70 - 75 lbs on the seat for a higher rpm street build with hollow adjustable lifters - my guess is that you'd get to 5500 rpm quite easily (not knowing the weights of everything in the total package).

Also, consider that most flatheads that I've seen don't have the necessary ignition system for higher rpms, don't have ports big enough to flow the air/fuel necessary to make much HP, etc..

Now - if we all could have personal engine dynos and unlimited time and money - would make this a lot easier to ponder. LOL :D
 
With the 1007B cam in the 59L I run LZ valve springs, NORS Sealed Powers, at 70#s on the seat at the installed height.
 
Bored&Stroked said:
These questions are a bit hard to answer - as the overall component package is not known (on this site).

Example: running original light-weight non-adjustable lifters gives you a LOT lighter valve train than a new set of Isky solid adjustable lifters . . . with Johnson's somewhere in the middle. The valves can also make a big difference - size, material, stem diameter, head design, etc..

Also, what is 'max rpm?' . . . how far are you willing to spin the motor before it either lets go or you let go of the throttle? What rods are you running, what oiling system, what bearing clearances, whose crankshaft . . . steel main caps???? You get the point . . .

I would probably shoot for 70 - 75 lbs on the seat for a higher rpm street build with hollow adjustable lifters - my guess is that you'd get to 5500 rpm quite easily (not knowing the weights of everything in the total package).

Also, consider that most flatheads that I've seen don't have the necessary ignition system for higher rpms, don't have ports big enough to flow the air/fuel necessary to make much HP, etc..

Now - if we all could have personal engine dynos and unlimited time and money - would make this a lot easier to ponder. LOL :D
Click to expand...
Great answer Dale. As you stated there are many variables in any modified from stock engines that can dictate how similar engine can require very different components & assembly specs.
 
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