Vintage battery kill switch?

5

52flthed

Senior Member
What does a period correct one look like if there was ever such a thing? Any pictures, sources or advice on their use ; pros and cons?
 
I used a copper lever switch. It works a lot better than the green wheel switch. No parts to melt if you crank your starter too long. Available on E-Bay or amazon. check for best price
 
I found a nos Cole Hersee switch made in Boston for my ‘41 Ford.
 

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Cole-Hersee has always been the gold standard, and there old made in USA ones out there if you are looking for patina. New ones are made in Mexico.
 
Whats so vintage about a kill switch? go any where and get one. This switch doesn't care about voltage all my machines have those from Napa...
 
Thanks for the responses so far.. The knife switch seems to most promising so far. The C.H. switch is attractive but I believe those have to be mounted? I prefer something local to the battery. Yes the green knob kind Ive had problems with years ago and Ive read a lot of negative things about them. A wrench is not a good idea as it would wear out the soft battery post and terminal and cause connection problems. If anyone has any pictures of their knife switch or Cole H. Switch I would love to see how you've mounted them. Thanks.
 
Always used a 1/2 wrench as my battery disconnect. Never heard of wearing out the battery post ??????. Been doing it for years, never wore out a battery post or the clamp.


52flthed said:
Thanks for the responses so far.. The knife switch seems to most promising so far. The C.H. switch is attractive but I believe those have to be mounted? I prefer something local to the battery. Yes the green knob kind Ive had problems with years ago and Ive read a lot of negative things about them. A wrench is not a good idea as it would wear out the soft battery post and terminal and cause connection problems. If anyone has any pictures of their knife switch or Cole H. Switch I would love to see how you've mounted them. Thanks.
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If you want a terminal mount switch you might try to find one from an English car. They used to be repopped but its been a long time since I messed with English cars. If you do decide to go this route and you do find one it will be pricey. But they are pretty fool proof. Unlike the green knob ones that mount on a terminal post.
 

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52flthed said:
A wrench is not a good idea as it would wear out the soft battery post and terminal and cause connection problems..
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In the decades that I have been using a wrench to disconnect batteries as required, I have not seen any wear to the post or anything else.
 
51504bat said:
If you want a terminal mount switch you might try to find one from an English car. They used to be repopped but its been a long time since I messed with English cars. If you do decide to go this route and you do find one it will be pricey. But they are pretty fool proof. Unlike the green knob ones that mount on a terminal post.
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Thanks for the suggestion! I will look into it.
 
Im using a wrench now to disconnect the battery during periods of storage. Its NG.. I want the safety and convenience of a switch. And a switch that will look like it belongs in my truck. Thats why I posted this question.

I can already see wear on the post and terminal. This observation and eventual problem Ive read about on other forums which leads me to that conclusion. Sorry but no wrench for me.
 
Personally, I turn my car off in the fall, and I start it up again in the spring. Many folks in the hobby like the disconnect switches, and many tell of the failures of the new modern junk they sell us. Those old CH switches have been around for about 75 years in every school bus and big trucks, if its an old still made in USA switch I'd say thats as good as it gets. If you want something cool, like on the dash of an old speedster, I would go with a Knife switch
 
The cheap generic import battery replacement cable terminals will deform badly very quickly, the good stuff is always plated solid copper crimped terminals and don't suffer from this problem.

Disconnecting the battery (one way or another) is a good practice in the off season especially, what with vintage wiring, and also the possibility of rodents or vermin chewing on wiring. More than one car fire has started this way.
 
Yes I agree about the CH switches but I think they're mounted in a remote location away from the battery is that right? I was looking for something that switches near the battery. I had a little fire with an engine compartment light last year. Since then Ive had the whole truck re-wired as there were other symptoms of bad grounds and such with the lights. So being extra cautious here and thinking about disconnecting the battery as built in feature doesn't sound like a bad idea. Thanks for the ideas so far.
 
I think you are overthinking this. Just make a bracket to mount the switch on the
inner fender panel near the battery. Run a short cable from the battery to the switch
and another from the switch to where ever the original cable was bolted to ground.
 
Put a fuse kit for the starter switch buss connection terminal on there and pull the fuse out to disconnect. It may not be original but the fuse will certainly protect the cars wiring from eventual short circuits. A person could also wire it for an aircraft type resetable push pull type circuit breaker of the correct system amperage rating. This would make it easier to pull the breaker button and open the circuit for longer storage. A person would have to get creative to mount and protect it but it could be done pretty easy.

The fuse kit is less expensive than the circuit breaker for sure but either one is less expensive than a burned up car or even a burned up garage where the car may be stored.

I keep thinking I'm on the Model A Forum! Later cars already have either fuses or circuit breakers but a CDM type Klixon breaker might work as a shut off if close to the solenoid connection to the battery.
 
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