Model A won't move in gear

2

29touring

Junior Member
Hello All,
I am having an issue and just need some advice on what to do next. I have been working on my Dad's 1930 Tudor. Got engine running after sitting for awhile. However, When I put it in gear, the car will not move, even when giving a lot of throttle. I found just reset the clutch play as dad had the throughout bearing right on the fingers (it is all original not V8). Thought that would fix it. The car will stall but not move. i read about stuck clutch discs, but those vehicles are able to move. I removed the tower to make sure the forks were on the gears. Not sure where to go from here without removing ******. Thank you for your help.

I will add that the car can be pushed backward or forward in any gear. It is like it isn't hooked up to the driveshaft, but everything is together. I checked and gears are turning with engine running.
 
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Most likely the clutch disk needs replacing. If you have adjusted the clutch so that there is 1 inch play before it starts to disengage then the only thing left is the clutch disk.

Or there is something wrong in the rear end. Perhaps the nut holding the pinion gear is loose.

If the speedometer shows some forward speed when you try to move forward with the engine then there is something wrong in the rear end. If not then the clutch disk is bad.
 
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29touring said:
Hello All,
I am having an issue and just need some advice on what to do next. I have been working on my Dad's 1930 Tudor. Got engine running after sitting for awhile. However, When I put it in gear, the car will not move, even when giving a lot of throttle. I found just reset the clutch play as dad had the throughout bearing right on the fingers (it is all original not V8). Thought that would fix it. The car will stall but not move. i read about stuck clutch discs, but those vehicles are able to move. I removed the tower to make sure the forks were on the gears. Not sure where to go from here without removing ******. Thank you for your help.

I will add that the car can be pushed backward or forward in any gear. It is like it isn't hooked up to the driveshaft, but everything is together. I checked and gears are turning with engine running.
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When you let the clutch out does it kill the engine? When you push the car while in gear does the engine turn?
Bill
 
When the clutch is let out it will stall. I did not look at the engine when pushing, I will check int he morning.
 
29touring said:
When the clutch is let out it will stall. I did not look at the engine when pushing, I will check int he morning.
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Sounds like the transmission is locked in two gears. Take top off and manually put it in neutral and then try it If the transmission is locked and you can still push it you have a broken axle or key.
Bill
 
Checked this morning and engine does not turn when pushing it in gear. Clutch disc also looks newer. Going to troubleshoot some more I'll keep y'all posted.
 
If it stalls when trying to engage the clutch, then it is likely in the transmission. There may be a problem with the shift tower not getting proper engagement as was mentioned or there may be a bent fork or something not allowing it to go into proper gear mesh. If the transmission will turn in neutral with clutch engaged then it's not the input or cluster gear since they turn any time the clutch is engaged in neutral. There may be a problem with the final drive from the main shaft clear back to the rear axle but I assume the rear wheels still turn. The U-joint could be a concern if it has failed. A person needs to find out where it stops turning from the front back. Pulling the transmission top is the easiest thing to do and it wouldn't hurt to check through the port in the bell housing and make sure the throw out bearing & hub is free and functional. Always do the easy things first. Check to make sure both rear wheels will turn too. That will be only part of the process of elimination but it is a good start. Save the harder stuff till you have no other choices.
 
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Do not run the engine with the tower off it can try to drop into gear and damage can result

John in sunny Suffolk County England .
 
After I checked the clutch disc and gears, I made sure the ujoint was moving by taking off the lower cover a looking through the grease baffle. Ujoint was good. Jacked up the car and ran to see if wheels turned. They turned a little. Took the wheels off and found right rear did not have a keyway. I was elated. Found a keyway and put hub back on. I started the car up and left rear turned fine forward and back, right rear still did not turn. We will be pulling the rear end within the next week to check axles and diiferential.

Thank you for the help!
 
29touring said:
Found a keyway and put hub back on. I started the car up and left rear turned fine forward and back, right rear still did not turn. We will be pulling the rear end within the next week to check axles and differential.

Thank you for the help!
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What happens if you put the left wheel on the ground with the right wheel still jacked up? Does the right wheel turn? Your problem may be that your differential is doing what it was designed to do.
 
Try driving it back and forth a few feet now that the key has been replaced. Both wheels on the ground, I might add.
 
So, I put it back on the ground and I was able to drive it forward and reverse. I chanced taking it out on our street (not busy) and drove it to the end of the block and back (about 1000 ft). Ran down the road fine and reverse to turn around fine. However, when I tried to accelerate, it would backfire and lose power. GAV also has to be open at least 3/4 of a turn or it will stall out.
 
Thank you. just put on a rebuilt carb. Did it myself so probably not perfect. I will check it out more this weekend. Thanks everyone.
 
On the back fire check to make sure that you didn't accidentally put the radiator cap on the gas tank. That will create a vacuum and cause loss of power and backfires. Run it without the gas cap on to see if that helps.
Another thing to check for is a bad intake / exhaust manifold gaskets.
Check to make sure your gasket between the intake manifold and carburetor is good and the bolts are snugged up.
 
If you didn’t flow test the jets, then all bets are off. Just drilling them doesn’t mean they flow correctly. Even ‘reaming” a jet with the same size drill can change the flow rate, sometimes, more than you want.
 
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