My 34 Won't Start

Guys, we all know stock is simpler and reliable. The guys didn't wire it up this way and I don't think he wants to totally rewire the car in addition to replacing hardware. It was working and stopped and he is trying to trouble shoot it. We understand that is difficult when we don't know what parts are there, as in what distributor. But don't think it helps to keep harping on how much better some of us believe stock is.

Jim, somehow you need to determine what distributor you have. The other parts seem to be fine and nothing has changed on the wiring. The most likely suspect, IMO, is the module inside the distributor. Need to get to someone that can check it and/or replace it.
 
JSeery said:
Guys, we all know stock is simpler and reliable. The guys didn't wire it up this way and I don't think he wants to totally rewire the car in addition to replacing hardware. It was working and stopped and he is trying to trouble shoot it. We understand that is difficult when we don't know what parts are there, as in what distributor. But don't think it helps to keep harping on how much better some of us believe stock is.

Jim, somehow you need to determine what distributor you have. The other parts seem to be fine and nothing has changed on the wiring. The most likely suspect, IMO, is the module inside the distributor. Need to get to someone that can check it and/or replace it.
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I have a flathead stroker engine with a Chev HEI distributor has built in coil also.
The engine is on a test stand and recently just stopped. Nil spark!!
Took complete distributor into a parts store. immediately the guy behind the counter said it wil be the module. And you should always carry a spare module in glove box. Yes it was the module and did buy 2 items.
hopefully yours will be a similar quick fix.
Phil NZ
 
I had time to take the cap off the distributor this evening. Yes it is a Mallory Breakerless Ignition. Was not easy to get a photo of it, let alone replace it. Not much space between the distributor and the radiator.
 

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JimG said:
I had time to take the cap off the distributor this evening. Yes it is a Mallory Breakerless Ignition. Was not easy to get a photo of it, let alone replace it. Not much space between the distributor and the radiator.
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Had the same issue but with Mallory Unilite module.
Found that Pertronix has a conversion kit for my distributor and went that route.
You might want to call Pertronix to see if they have a conversion for your model distributor.
Not sorry that I converted mine.
 
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you need to buy a test light they work for both 6&12 volt key on should be power at the coil then go from there
 
Again, I cannot stress enough to ONLY CHANGE ONE THING AT A TIME. Changing to a Pertronix at this particular time will introduce more new variables than are necessary (e.g. how will the Pertronix interact with the Mallory spike protector?) I would suggest installing a known, good Mallory module.
 
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Hi Jim, I just sent you a PM about new Stromberg distributor. Check it out. Call them to find out exactly what coil , spark plug wires and ballast resister (if needed.) you should use.
Also ask if you need a surge (Spike) protector.
https://www.stromberg-97.com/distributors/e-fire-2-bolt-12v-negative/
and here
https://www.google.com/search?q=str...5i39j69i60.15888j0j4&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

Also, read this:
https://myflatheadford.com/ws-stromberg-efire-ignition/

and this:
https://fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=245631

and peruse this:
https://www.google.com/search?q=str...67l3j0i512.11400j0j4&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8
 
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I'll go on record as saying this is probably not a good way to go, either. He said the car "ran OK" before, so I think the best thing would be to try to get it back to that point. Again, who knows how the Stromberg distributor (which seems to have a spotty reputation anyway) would react to the Mallory voltage spike protector? To eliminate that would require a wiring change. If you can find a replacement Mallory module, replace that (and only that) and see if you can get at least get it back to where it was. I'll also bet that a replacement Mallory module (if you can find one) will be a lot less expensive than a whole new distributor.

Once you have a running car, then you can begin to experiment.
 
tubman said:
Again, I cannot stress enough to ONLY CHANGE ONE THING AT A TIME. Changing to a Pertronix at this particular time will introduce more new variables than are necessary (e.g. how will the Pertronix interact with the Mallory spike protector?) I would suggest installing a known, good Mallory module.
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The Pertonix conversion for my Mallory distributors do not involve having to use a "spike protector". They are not part of the equation. Remove and toss the Mallory spike protector.
 
I know there are some Pertronix units that fit the old Mallory point distributors, but do you think they tooled up for a replacement for the electronic ones?

And removing the "spike protector" means changing the wiring, which is another change.
 
Think I read all in the thread. Don’t think I saw any reference to checking the coil to distributor wire. If it’s messed up no juice to module or spark to plugs. Also distributor looks like a pretty old model. Do coil to dist. & plug wires look old? U indicated even when “it ran good” it didn’t start good & you always had to use starter fluid to get it running? Sounds like you may have had a weak spark issue for a while & now no spark is the next degradation in that issue. I do agree w the guys indicating don’t change anything until u’ve tested & find it to be bad. Going w different parts before knowing what the problem is will really get you lost. While it was’t starting well it did run after starter fluid & with no spark obviously in ignition parts.
 
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tubman said:
I know there are some Pertronix units that fit the old Mallory point distributors, but do you think they tooled up for a replacement for the electronic ones?

And removing the "spike protector" means changing the wiring, which is another change.
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The Mallory distributors I have converted to Pertronix were in fact Mallory Unilite electronic distributors that were originally made to fit G.M. but now fit a flathead.
470386
 

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Why would you want to start making major changes if all it may need is a new module??? If they no longer exist or some other issue is found, then maybe. Would you start changing to a different type of distributor if it needed the points changed? One thing at a time here.
 
If it's the electronic module in the dist, you usually just
plug the new one in and there is no wiring to change.




.
 
Lanny said:
If it's the electronic module in the dist, you usually just
plug the new one in and there is no wiring to change.




.
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Mallory modules come with wires attached that have to be fed to the outside of the distributor. They don't just "plug" in.
 
Corrected wording as it sounded like I was talking about replacing the whole distributor. This board / module replacement looks like it might be the same as you show inside your Dist. in the thread pic. I see what looks like 0550 stamped on the aluminum id tag on your part in your Dist. pic. Probably indicates series 50 which this board / module will fit. Probly a call to Speedway & send them that pic of the Dist w/o cap showing the internal board & I’m sure they’ll identify it & tell you if it is the replacement or what the correct one is.
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Mall...MIhee0wrmr8gIV_HRvBB1ywQx8EAQYAyABEgISI_D_BwE

I have a newer Mallory electronic (crab type) unit on my ‘35. Probly about the same clearance issues to remove Dist. A bit of a PIA but it will come out w/o removing your radiator. There is no gear stem as it sits / used the front of the cam to drive / orient.
 
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If you are going with an electric ignition. Might want to look at your plug wires too. You might want to run spiral vs copper core. At least the opposite is true. Don't run spiral on stock point ignition.
 
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