To answer your question, if you want to torque it to spec might have to use a crows foot or dog bone. So long as these are oriented 90° to the wrench itself no correction factor need be applied. (It's when the the wrench is made "longer" or "shorter", is when allowances need to be made).
With the castle nut in this instance the cotter pin hole ordinarily will be exposed somewhere within that 60 to 90 pound torque spec range. If not, first try a different nut, if that doesn't work to line up the cotter pin the addition of a thin washer or two under the nut might be necessary in some instances to get everything to line up, so the cotter pin can be installed.
Yeah, a lot of people don't use a torque wrench, but if you want to that's how it's done.