Torque when wrench won't fit.

callbald

Senior Member
The upper ball joint on my 64 Galaxie does not have enough clearance to fit a torque wrench and socket. This is a 7/8 nut needing 60-90 ft'lbs of torque.
The best I have is a 12 inch box wrench. Any suggestions?
 
Put your torque wrench square drive in a vise and see how much arm strength it takes to reach 90#. Extend your box end wrench with another wrench so length equals the torque wrench length . With torque range of 60-90 #, bet you can come pretty close with your wrenches.
 
fordo41 has a good idea. Personally (and I'm sure I will get plenty of slack from this response) I have never used a torque wrench on a ball joint. Just get it tight. The range shown is 60 to 90 pounds? that's quite a spread. I wouldn't get too excited about perfection, just make it tight, you won't break it
 
To use a TORQUE WRENCH in limited access situations, you would use an extension such as is shown below -

You will have to modify the torque value and charts/formulas are available to guide you.

TORQUE VALUES are given for very good reason(s).

Close enough is only good in horse shoes, hand grenades and thermonuclear warfare.

:cool: BELIEVE IT OR ELSE! :cool:​
 

Attachments

  • 104389_2000x2000.jpg
    104389_2000x2000.jpg
    20.6 KB · Views: 1
Never used a torque wrench on ball joints and never had one come apart. As stated that 60 - 90 is a mile wide range! Put that big box on the nut and pull hard, you'll be good to go after the cotter pin goes in.
 
To answer your question, if you want to torque it to spec might have to use a crows foot or dog bone. So long as these are oriented 90° to the wrench itself no correction factor need be applied. (It's when the the wrench is made "longer" or "shorter", is when allowances need to be made).

With the castle nut in this instance the cotter pin hole ordinarily will be exposed somewhere within that 60 to 90 pound torque spec range. If not, first try a different nut, if that doesn't work to line up the cotter pin the addition of a thin washer or two under the nut might be necessary in some instances to get everything to line up, so the cotter pin can be installed.

Yeah, a lot of people don't use a torque wrench, but if you want to that's how it's done.
 
To answer your question, if you want to torque it to spec might have to use a crows foot or dog bone. So long as these are oriented 90° to the wrench itself no correction factor need be applied. (It's when the the wrench is made "longer" or "shorter", is when allowances need to be made).

Yes, thats how I was learnt waayyy back in High School Auto Shop. :p
 
Back
Top