Steering column controls

ThosD

ThosD

Member
I just took delivery of my 1930 Model A coupe a few days ago (my first A and the only one I have driven). Although it is a running car, it has many items amiss. Steering column levers are stiff/tight. The ignition retard and fuel levers require a lot of muscle to move; too much to apply while driving.
The light switch only moves from 6 o'clock to 9 o'clock without any detent feel and it is also hard to move. I cannot turn on lights.

Questions: Can I remove and repair the light switch without pulling the horn rod? Is buying a switch assembly from a vendor such as MACs a good move. I find wiring diagrams for the switch but no R&R info.

Where is the best place to start debugging the ignition and fuel lever linkages; at the engine or the steering wheel? Will I need to take steering column apart, pull horn rod?


Tom
 
The column is held in position with a clamp located just above the steering box.it can be shifted out of position. That may be the situation here. Unhook the linkage and see if the arms move freely. Oil is your friend. Rust is not.
You are looking for full travel of the upper distributor plate, left lever. And full travel of the throttle arm at the carburetor, right lever.
There are two places on the throttle arm assembly that take oil behind the firewall.
 
Regarding the throttle and spark levers I would REMOVE the connecting rods to the distributor and the throttle connection on the rear of the engine. I suspect that the trouble is in the steering column and will have to be removed to correct the problem. It could be that the leavers are binding on the steering column and need to adjusted. The steering column might be out of adjustment so that the rods are not in proper alignment with the gas and distributor. I would rely on Bert’s or other A parts dealers! You might consider purchasing LES ANDREWS RED BOOK for help with repairing your Model A.
 
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Bob C said:
Welcome. Buying anything from Mac's is generally not a good move.
Click to expand...

Most of Mac's stuff comes from China and often is not the best quality.

Be especially careful when buying electrical components from China. Most are very poor quality.

My experience and recommendation,

Chris W.
 
DO NOT spray WD-40 in/on the upper bushing under the steering wheel, it'll swell the bushing making the levers to hard to move (maybe your problem now?)
 
Be aware that full travel of the advance means within the cutout in the upper body, not with the distributor body off. I didn't keep that in mind once (or more!) and had to redo the timing.
 
More thanks. I suspect that Artimus has the identified the path for correction. I am making up my to do list and this is in the top 5.
 
Bob C said:
Buying anything from Mac's is generally not a good move.
Click to expand...

Please tell me which is better?

51280313299_d572203c85.jpg


51279759958_f10d1cb2bf.jpg


Well actually they are the same. This is a part that I received from BRATTON's with a MAC's part number on the reverse side.

A lot of parts we receive are from the same manufacturer.
 
ThosD said:
I just took delivery of my 1930 Model A coupe a few days ago (my first A and the only one I have driven). Although it is a running car, it has many items amiss. Steering column levers are stiff/tight. The ignition retard and fuel levers require a lot of muscle to move; too much to apply while driving.
The light switch only moves from 6 o'clock to 9 o'clock without any detent feel and it is also hard to move. I cannot turn on lights.

Questions: Can I remove and repair the light switch without pulling the horn rod? Is buying a switch assembly from a vendor such as MACs a good move. I find wiring diagrams for the switch but no R&R info.

Where is the best place to start debugging the ignition and fuel lever linkages; at the engine or the steering wheel? Will I need to take steering column apart, pull horn rod?


Tom
Click to expand...

Welcome. You've found one of the best forums for expert advice about a Model A - but as you can see you'll also get multiple opinions.. so I'll give you mine.

1. Learn the vehicle and diagnose the problems you encounter. In most cases original parts can be restored and are a better fit than most replacements.

2. Save the parts you remove. You'll find that most reproduction parts need some 'adjustment' to fit correctly, and the parts you remove may be a valuable 'reference'

3. These are simple vehicles, designed to be repairable. The machining tolerances are remarkable given when they were built. Seek out original parts when available, or ask questions on this forum when replacements (reproductions) are required. Use the vendors recommended on this forum by forum members. You'll be glad you did.

Now to answer your more specific questions - the throttle and spark levers have "touch points" at only two places - the upper steering bushing and the lower steering housing. Disconnect the rods in the engine compartment and see if that helps. Lubricate the lower rods and springs and the upper bushing with oil. The upper bushing is pot metal and can swell.

For the light switch, you can remove the bail at the bottom and remove the entire light switch from the column. The light switch should now be able to rotate 360. Be gentle with the light switch shaft..

With the switch removed you may be able to diagnose why it only moves from 6-9 oclock positions. The spider may not be properly engaged. There may be excessive lubricant in the light switch if the steering column has not been rebuilt with the longer tube in the bottom.

If the above doesn't solve your problems, I would probably pull the steering column and "restore" it. If there were items "amiss" with the vehicle, steering and brakes should be your top priorities.

Best of luck with you 'new' car
 
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The simplest fix for the light switch is to limit your driving to daytime only. You need to get the car sorted out anyways. And FYI, your first time driving at night will be a house of mirrors experience. Tons of glare and reflections, and 6V lights, while perfectly adequate in the dark, are overpowered by modern halogens in your face. Tread lightly your first few times. I like my car stock, and drive at night, but not on major thoroughfares if I can help it.
 
Y-Blockhead said:
Please tell me which is better?

51280313299_d572203c85.jpg


51279759958_f10d1cb2bf.jpg


Well actually they are the same. This is a part that I received from BRATTON's with a MAC's part number on the reverse side.

A lot of parts we receive are from the same manufacturer.
Click to expand...
That's true but you also have to consider customer service, shipping cost and return policy. I think you can do better than Macs on all three.
 
The spider gear in the light switch could be the issue with your lights, it must be aligned correctly with the lower switch plate (12 and six o'clock positions)
For the levers, grease and oil
And no, you should not have to pull the horn rod or steering column
 
Bob C said:
That's true but you also have to consider customer service, shipping cost and return policy. I think you can do better than Macs on all three.
Click to expand...

Admittedly, MAC's is not my first go to, I prefer Bratton's or Synder's, I have never had a problem with them. Sometimes they have items noone else has (or the other vendors get it from MAC's, as in the case I pointed out with the trans seal).

Mister Moose said:
...And FYI, your first time driving at night will be a house of mirrors experience. Tons of glare and reflections, and 6V lights, while perfectly adequate in the dark, are overpowered by modern halogens in your face.
Click to expand...

Boy, ain't that the truth. I pull down my window shades in my Town Sedan at night to block some on the glare.
 
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