rusty tank
- Thread starter darrell
- Start date
I had both of my old fomoco tanks sealed/coated/whatever about 15 years ago and they seem to be lasting OK. I Know that at least one of the restorers on the two jobs used POR-15...maybe both did.
It seems that nothing is ever perfect though. I've kept clear inline filters (not too close to anything hot) over the years to see what kind of residue I got after the recoats were done. I got a little bit of the coating stuff flaking off in the first year or two, but not much after that. In that respect I'd say the process cleared up about 98% of my rusty tank problem.
But I checked on line and saw that new tanks for a 55 Ford pass car are 190 - 250 bucks. To me it's a no-brainer. The only reason I had my tanks coated was because they didn't make repro tanks for Ranch Wagons and Mercury Monterey's at that time. Strongly recommend replacing the tank unless they don't make one for your application.
It seems that nothing is ever perfect though. I've kept clear inline filters (not too close to anything hot) over the years to see what kind of residue I got after the recoats were done. I got a little bit of the coating stuff flaking off in the first year or two, but not much after that. In that respect I'd say the process cleared up about 98% of my rusty tank problem.
But I checked on line and saw that new tanks for a 55 Ford pass car are 190 - 250 bucks. To me it's a no-brainer. The only reason I had my tanks coated was because they didn't make repro tanks for Ranch Wagons and Mercury Monterey's at that time. Strongly recommend replacing the tank unless they don't make one for your application.
56sedandelivery
Well-known member
What do you do when there are no tanks for the wagon or courier, that I have found? Get a car tank and have the filler tube moved?
Old Redneck
Well-known member
I am south of Pittsburgh, Pa. and there a couple of places near me that will cut the tank and sandblast the rust then put back together then coat the inside that will last for life.. Check in your area to see who does this. Where are you anyway?
I saw a repro tank that claimed it would fit my '54 Ranch Wagon about a year or two ago. I took notice because nothing like this was available when I had my tank redone. It was more money than the standard tank, I think, but can't remember how much...or where I saw it. I'll search around a little and see if I can find it. Have no idea if it will fit a '56.
Daves55Sedan
Well-known member
'55/56 Ford car tanks are available from many of the popular repro parts suppliers. Some years ago, a couple of outfits started reproducing new tanks for our wagons/Couriers.
I bought the one for my Courier directly from the manufacturer (Spectre) the instant they came out as I was struggling with my own rotten dented up gas tank. It is an exact duplicate of original, high quality, made in USA at the time.
Later, I found out that some of the tanks made available from the repro guys ARE the Spectre tanks, but with a middle-man mark up.
There is a company that will fabricate a new tank for you if you send them your old one, regardless of year, make and model. It won't be exact duplicate, but it will fit right and have filler neck, vent, supply line fitting and fuel sender ports in right locations.
JeffB2
Well-known member
Best place for a tank is here,since the stainless tank is only $6 more you might want to grab that. https://www.autocityclassic.com/1955-1956-fairlane-skyliner-sunliner-victoria-tanks/ You might want to also get the matching sending unit old ethanol fuels can ruin them.
Thanks a bunch for the link, Jeff. It's exciting to see a tank for 52-56 Ford AND Merc wagons available online. Hopefully 56sedandelivery is taking notice. I probably won't be getting one since I invested in the recoat, but if I were in his shoes that's definitely what I'd do. They aren't currently available/in stock, but I can't imagine they have a big market and probably build them as they're ordered.
https://www.autocityclassic.com/195...d-sedan-delivery-zinc-gas-tank-ts5256f-wagon/
JeffB2
Well-known member
In some cases you might need this too as some later sending units and tanks are 6 bolt. https://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm?ptype=product&product_id=344&category_id=167&mode=prod Here is their tank options. https://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=results/category_id=117/mode=cat/cat117.htm
steve fritz
Well-known member
Just an fyi on the wagon tanks....I bought one from AUTOCITY CLASSICS for my 55 Ranch Wagon couple years ago. It is perfect. Am very pleased with it.
You can google AUTOCITY CLASSICS, they sell glass and tanks and other parts. Located in ISANTI, MN.
You can google AUTOCITY CLASSICS, they sell glass and tanks and other parts. Located in ISANTI, MN.
JeffB2
Well-known member
Hopefully you did a fair amount of research on the brand of coating you used on several Ford Forums it has come up that the ethanol degrades the coating after a couple of years and clogs the fuel system.
[FONT="]I did no research at all since it wasn't I, but a couple of local old car restorer's who did the work on the tanks. I had researched rust encapsulating products for the rest of my car, though, and was familiar with POR 15, which at least one of the restorers said he used on the tank. I can't remember what the other guy said he used. It was many years ago. Both cars seemed to have had the rusty tank problems resolved with the treatment (aside from small amounts of residue at first.) Coating is a solution to the rusty tank problem, but I think replacing the tank is preferable. And certainly less expensive if you’re paying other people to coat the tanks. [/FONT]
[FONT="]I'm still trying to figure out why here in Nebraska (and Iowa, too, I think) - heart of ethanol production country - there is NON-ethanol gas available almost everywhere, while in many non-corn growing parts of the US there is only ethanol gas. Anyway, I only use non-ethanol gas in my collector cars. [/FONT]
I've heard a big heavy link chain works good since all the metal bits used for knocking the rust off come out when you pull the chain out.
jhljr44@yahoo.com
Member
I have always used Muiratic acid. The new stuff will not burn flesh but will clean rust really well. I use a couple gallons mixed with 20% water. plug the tank and turn every 12 hours until the inside is totally covered. Then empty into plastic container. The in side always looks like new. Flush the tank with diesel or kerosene and then use the tank. If it is really rusted through then slosh with POR-15. I've been doing this for over 30 years and always works for me.
rotorwrench
Well-known member
The best acid for safe corrosion removal on steel is phosphoric acid. This is what has been used by the Navy for years. The thickened form is called naval jelly. Phosphoric acid will remove the heavy stuff over a short period of soak and what it leaves is converted to iron phosphate which is inert. Most of the companies that sell the kits for cleaning and sealing the tanks, include a Zinc/Phosphoric based cleaner/remover/conversion coat for this purpose but many don't give enough of it to do a good job on a cancer laden fuel tank. The tank has to be washed out with water and dried with the alcohol that is also provided. The sealer is then slosh applied for best coverage and then excess drained.
Using other acid mixtures can lead to a corrosion build up during the drying out process. They are such a good oxidizer that you can watch the corrosion form it's so quick. A properly prepped zinc/phosphoric cleaning solution will remain rust free for a longer time since it is a conversion treatment. The Por 15 brand converts the surface to zinc phosphate and is good stuff but a quart isn't enough for a large tank. A person can purchase the stuff separately as Por 15 Metal Prep. The prices are not much different to what other sources of similar products sell. Bill Hirsch and Eastwood sell similar products. Aerospace parts sources also sell similar products but the are blended to work better for aluminum than steel.
Using other acid mixtures can lead to a corrosion build up during the drying out process. They are such a good oxidizer that you can watch the corrosion form it's so quick. A properly prepped zinc/phosphoric cleaning solution will remain rust free for a longer time since it is a conversion treatment. The Por 15 brand converts the surface to zinc phosphate and is good stuff but a quart isn't enough for a large tank. A person can purchase the stuff separately as Por 15 Metal Prep. The prices are not much different to what other sources of similar products sell. Bill Hirsch and Eastwood sell similar products. Aerospace parts sources also sell similar products but the are blended to work better for aluminum than steel.
Last edited: