I have a Rajo just like yours and have been rebuilding antique engines along with vintage racing engines for 35 yrs. The bronze that Paul suggests will only work fine if there is a supply of oil to the top of the guide. I have tried bronze in this type of no, to little oil situation before and have friends that have also had trouble on other early cars and motorcycles using bronze.
I have used bronze guide liners in T's enclosed valves with plenty of oil and in that situation it will work well.
Paul, what has your experience been with bronze guides been like??
But on your head which gets no oil unless you oil it or come up with a system you will end up having valves stick.
I would use cast iron, I machine my own if I cannot find something to adapt that will fit. Then get your valve stems hard chromed because if the stems are stainless you may have gauling and sticking. Send them to
http://www.calvalves.com/ they will do a good job or have a local plating shop do them for you. You only need .0005 - 1/2 of a thousandth of chrome.
Ream the guides for .003"- .004" exhausts and .002" for the intakes. Set up this way they will work very well with little to no oil. The graphite in the cast iron will help along with whatever oil you can put on them.
I have used this on a lot of T-Head and L-Heads (like an early T with exposed valves) with exposed valves which get no oil and it will work beautifully. The photo shows a new guide machined here on the lathe along with an original one. A piece of cast iron bar and a reamer.
This is what is being done in modern cars and trucks as the modern valve guide seals keep almost all of the oil out for emissions purposes. This is the only way that really holds up well unless a seal that meters just the right amount of oil is used, then bronze might work.
I have seen your head on the Banger thread before and if you are missing the guides I can give you dimensions.