two Model A questions

[TomIII]

1. I got a 12 to 6v voltage reducer but my Sparton horn doesn't have any leads from the motor. How are the leads connected?
2. I'm beginning a brake job on my '31, front looks sorta straightforward. I have no idea how to access the main shoes on the rears? How do I re-do the rear brakes??

 

[larrys40]

You will need to remove the emergency brake arm on the backing plate and remove the 4 nuts from the backing plate and e-brake plate removing the emergency brake carrier plate To access the service brakes.

Remove the wedge on all 4 backing plates by screwing in and it will force out the caps.
It make take a tap on the end to get them out.
A full comprehensive brake job includes rebuilding all shafts levers pins roller tracks, drums preferable to cast iron and shoes fit to the drums.
Brakes are one of my specialties and are not as simple as most think. Don’t forget rods and Clevises .
After comprehsive rebuilding including cross shafts proper adjustment is key as well.
This isn’t something you get done in a day. I do many and cooking at it it’s 40 hours give or take.

Larry Shepard

 

[Bob C]

Here's the horn wiring.

 

[CWPASADENA]

Buy a copy of the Les Andres "Model A Mechanics Handbook" Vol. #1. He has a very good set of instructions on rebuilding the brakes.

Like "larrys40" said, there is a lot to rebuilding the brakes but if done correctly, Model A brakes are actually quite good.

Chris W.

 

[700rpm]

"if done correctly"
That’s the most important factor.

 

[McMimmcs]

In my opinion not a task for a newbie. This is a complicated exercise and your life depends on it.

 

[TomIII]

Thanks

 

[TomIII]

Thanks!

 

[rotorwrench]

The original horns are series wound so they can be connected either way for function. The grounding part comes from the light switch group where the wire travels up inside the steering shaft to the horn button. The power side is connected directly to the cut out so it will have full generator output. The horn wire terminals fit into the two brass clips as in the photos of the horn. The photo on post #3 appears to be soldered direct to the clips but that's not the way they were originally done.

 

[Badpuppy]

Here's the horn wiring.

(Post #3)

The wire bullet ends slide into the spring connectors from the side.

 

[nkaminar]

Is your wire horn reducer (resistor to drop the voltage) the small one with a socket on one end and a plug on the other or the larger one that mounts on the frame? If it is the first variety it will mount in the horn, just plug one of the wires into the socket and the other into the brass spring connectors. This is the easy one to use but it will get too hot if you honk the horn continuously for a few minutes. The one that mounts on the frame will allow you to honk continuously but you will need to break into the wiring that comes from the light switch at the end of the steering box or the wire coming from the generator (alternator).

Regarding the brakes, when you get the parking (emergency) brakes removed you can remove the backing plates by removing the 4 bolts. The same goes for the front brakes. You can remove the backing plates. Send all the parts, including drums, to someone who rebuilds brakes and you will get back ready to install brakes. Just bolt the backing plates back onto the axles and put the remaining parts back on. You will have to adjust the brakes, but the hard work will have been done and you can be assured that the rebuild was done correctly.

 

[Gary Kelley]

Regarding the brakes, when you get the parking (emergency) brakes removed you can remove the backing plates by removing the 4 bolts. The same goes for the front brakes. You can remove the backing plates. Send all the parts, including drums, to someone who rebuilds brakes and you will get back ready to install brakes. Just bolt the backing plates back onto the axles and put the remaining parts back on. You will have to adjust the brakes, but the hard work will have been done and you can be assured that the rebuild was done correctly.

I did not know brakes could be done this way. I looked up BRAKES in the website list at the top of the page and found this.

BRAKES
1. www.flatheadted.com Flathead Ted's
2. No known website: Steve's (Sturim) Antique Auto Repair (616) 538-0441 (Michigan)

Then I googled 'Steve's (Sturim) Antique Auto Repair' and found this web page. https://stevesantiqueautorepair.com/

It looks like I am finally going to get my brakes fixed.

 

[nkaminar]

Mikes has complete kits either rebuilt or new. I think some of the other vendors offer the same.

https://www.mikes-afordable.com/category/1039.html

Macs has complete new assemblies https://www.macsautoparts.com/

 

[Y-Blockhead]

I did not know brakes could be done this way. I looked up BRAKES in the website list at the top of the page and found this.

BRAKES
1. www.flatheadted.com Flathead Ted's
2. No known website: Steve's (Sturim) Antique Auto Repair (616) 538-0441 (Michigan)

Then I googled 'Steve's (Sturim) Antique Auto Repair' and found this web page. https://stevesantiqueautorepair.com/

It looks like I am finally going to get my brakes fixed.

Try Randy Gross also. Excellent work and a heck of a nice guy.

 

[CarlG]

Randy Gross is the "go-to guy" when it comes to brakes. I have his brakes on my pickup and am very pleased with not only the quick service, but the price as well.

 

[JayJay]

1. I got a 12 to 6v voltage reducer but my Sparton horn doesn't have any leads from the motor. How are the leads connected?

Tom - this question may have gotten lost in the responses above.

There are no wires coming from the horn to connect to. Rather, the wires from the wiring harness slip behind the "ears" on the copper contacts on the horn itself. Attached photo may help.

There's no polarity on these connectors. The horn should properly "ahooga" regardless of which direction the armature rotates.

JayJay