'35 backing plate bolts

15max

Senior Member
Has anyone found a good way to remove these bolts. The head is a bit bigger than 11/16 and difficult to get any kind of wrench inside the grease baffle. It wants to turn with the nut and I can't get a grip. They seem to be rounded in all the wrong places.
Thanks for any ideas that might work.
 

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I would recommend that you power wash the area to get rid of all of the grease. Then use a torch to heat up the nuts on the other side and hold the square end with a vice grip plier. Hope that helps.
 
I have an old 3/4" open end wrench that I bent to a kinda Z shape to hold them. These bolts can fight, best to make the effort to get all residue from the cotter pins out first, then lube it all up good. There is a "lock" tang too, so keep it tight against the backing plate to keep the tang engaged
 

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Mart on here made a special tool that holds all 4 heads, probably more effective when re-fitting them.
 
If you can get a ring of steel like a big washer and put it over the heads of the bolts, and then refit the hub so it clamps the bolts tight against the axle casing it will hold the heads in place while the nuts are removed.
A ring of plywood would probably do it.

Mart.
 
I forgot , i had first used a flat gasket scraper and a screwdriver. I just placed the flat blade between the flat on the bolt and the spindle back. It worked on all but one that had been replaced with a standard 6 sided bolt .
 
Thanks for all the kind responses. I tried the vise grips, bent wrench and several wedges with no success. Finally I made this plate to fit the head. It required a spacer to hold it against the bolt and even a large C-clamp to keep it tight. However, the nuts still would not budge until they were heated as mentioned by Gary.
One more ordeal. It certainly was satisfying when they came loose.
 

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Thanks for all the kind responses. I tried the vise grips, bent wrench and several wedges with no success. Finally I made this plate to fit the head. It required a spacer to hold it against the bolt and even a large C-clamp to keep it tight. However, the nuts still would not budge until they were heated as mentioned by Gary.
One more ordeal. It certainly was satisfying when they came loose.

Looks good!
 
That's a nice tool. Feel like making some more?
I don't think so. While it is a simple thing to make it took me 5 hours with a hacksaw, files and a drill. A well equipped machine shop might be able to make them cheaper that I could. I could provide drawings if anyone is interested. Had I applied heat earlier the simpler tools should have worked as well.
Thanks
 
Replace the stock bolts with Grade 8 1/2-20 SAE bolts. The hex head will provide a "wrenching" surface. Or you could tack weld a nut to the head of the OEM bolt.
 

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