B block hole repair

[Benson]

I was told many years ago that there is more to metal stitching than just installing one plug.

They said that using ONLY one plug can expand the crack and make the leak worse.

As seen in J&M's photo, when done correctly metal stitching will actually hold the two sides of the crack up tighter and close the crack tightly so the crack will not widen when block gets hot or when stresses are applied.

I would leave the job to the pros like J&M!

 

[31steve]

I agree that metal stitching a crack is the best method of repair but I feel the new seats will have to be removed first to do it right. Do you think it will hold just stitching up next to the new seats?

 

[d.j. moordigian]

I agree that metal stitching a crack is the best method of repair but I feel the new seats will have to be removed first to do it right. Do you think it will hold just stitching up next to the new seats?

No,...you need to remove the seats. How do you know that the crack isn't
below the seat...?...bet it is..

 

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

No,...you need to remove the seats. How do you know that the crack isn't below the seat...?...bet it is..

Dudley, that was my thoughts also. Maybe at this point, Steve takes his chances, adds the water-glass, ...and then roll with it until it caters. Then move pistons, cam, head, and valves to a new A block.

 

[Ernie Vitucci]

Good afternoon...With limited resources...I would take the Bible according to Russ 40 and put her back together...ad a little holly water to the radiator and make sure that the head stays torqued....like at 25 miles, 50 miles, 75 miles and 100 miles, then once a year...if it lets go again....move all the good parts to another block...Good Luck...Ernie in Arizona

 

[Russ/40]

Just a bit more perspective: My rationale for what I would not do, strictly based on my own experiences.
Mig welding cools too fast, gets too hard, and has significant potential for more damage.
Silver solder, easy to do, but too difficult to control the cooling rate, raising the specter of more cracks.
Brazing, like silver solder, but with less heat, best for forgings, but again cracks risk is high in cast iron.
JB weld, slow set, I have used many times, to repair heads that have excessive pitting around water holes. Works great and with lasting results. I have never tried it in the combustion chamber, so I have no basis to evaluate.
Superior epoxies, many I have no experience with. JB high heat the putty stuff, worries me as I don't see where it gets enough penetrating into pores to get a good tooth on the material, especially when the application is very small and thin.
Cast iron stitching pins, actually not that difficult. I have practiced on scrap model A blocks, and you would be surprised the small thickness that can be pinned.