'38 headlights switch/tube

[Will D]

The light switch ring is loose on the tube. How was this affixed from factory? Is it just the tension of the horn wire that holds the switch ring to the tube or is the brass piece supposed to be pressed(interference fit) into the switch ring?

Best option to fix? Tired of it flopping around when turning it or driving.

 

[ford38v8]

Apparently, the spring and clip is not engaged at the bottom of the horn rod tube. Under the car below the steering box, you'll see a large bulb with wire harness exiting. On this bulb is a wire spring clip holding it in place. Remove the clip, the bulb will come down, exposing the insides, which must remain clean from the built up grease on it's exterior. That can get tricky, as the harness remains with the bulb, so be prepared for that. Inside, you'll see the bottom lower end of the horn rod tube with it's slot to hold the spring clip.

 

[Will D]

Apparently, the spring and clip is not engaged at the bottom of the horn rod tube. Under the car below the steering box, you'll see a large bulb with wire harness exiting. On this bulb is a wire spring clip holding it in place. Remove the clip, the bulb will come down, exposing the insides, which must remain clean from the built up grease on it's exterior. That can get tricky, as the harness remains with the bulb, so be prepared for that. Inside, you'll see the bottom lower end of the horn rod tube with it's slot to hold the spring clip.

This has no relation to the spring and clip. How is the tube attached to the steering wheel switch ring? With the horn wire running thru the tube, I can't tell how the tube attaches to the steering wheel switch ring. It appears to be only held in place by the horn wire, which is slightly stretched. Seems like it should be more than that.

Was hoping to avoid removing the horn wire from the tube but looks like I may have to.

You can see the clip groove here, the opposing force/end is the brass ring on the other end of the tube. This puts the steering wheel switch ring outside of that clamping force.

 

[Zeke3]

Will, can you post a picture of the other side of the horn switch plate with the horn button removed? I wanted to see what it looks like where the wire attaches under the button.

I was thinking JB Weld or a similar product might fix the joint between the rod and the switch plate.

 

[cas3]

In your picture, the 4 rectangle slots at 12,3,6 & 9 are supposed to have a metal tang sticking thru and bent over to hold the chrome ring around the horn button in place

 

[Will D]

In your picture, the 4 rectangle slots at 12,3,6 & 9 are supposed to have a metal tang sticking thru and bent over to hold the chrome ring around the horn button in place

I removed that to get up in there, trying to see what's loose.

Will, can you post a picture of the other side of the horn switch plate with the horn button removed? I wanted to see what it looks like where the wire attaches under the button.

I was thinking JB Weld or a similar product might fix the joint between the rod and the switch plate.

I ended up unsoldering the horn wire. 4 little tabs loose hidden beneath.

 

[cas3]

I see some brass, someone has been in there before! I have fixed those ends by replacing the whole end with a steel shaft, filed square to fit the hole, then threaded and held in place with a flat pan head screw with a hole thru the middle for the wire. ends up way stronger than original

 

[Zeke3]

Thanks for the pictures Will.

 

[cas3]

Will D , glad you got it figgered out. The top end of those light/horn rods are fragile. many times they get bent while out of the car, or traveling to swap meets. Trying to straighten out a slightly crooked top can easily result in a cracked tube, done a couple myself. The crimped bulge in the top is the weak point, they tend to crack when trying to make it straight, and square with the steering wheel. also, the 4 tabs that hold the top onto the tube were crimped at the factory by a machine, and i believe its kind of a one time deal, thats why yours was brazed. I doubt you will get it to sit tight, and will have a wobbly top switch. best wishes, hope you get it done. But... here's what i do, have fixed several. Explained in my previous post, some pics here. I made the part in a lathe, but its a simple part. braze the new end on to the tube, better than Henry's part

 

[Will D]

Thanks for the pictures Will.

Your welcome.

But... here's what i do, have fixed several. Explained in my previous post, some pics here. I made the part in a lathe, but its a simple part. braze the new end on to the tube, better than Henry's part

Thanks for the explanation and pics cas3. From your earlier post I was able to come up with a similar fix, but maybe not as strong as yours. I lack a lathe, so I made this piece with a drill and file from a threaded brass cap I had. It friction fit inside the tube, then soldered it to the tube.

 

[cas3]

Looks good to me, clever fella!