38 sedan

New guy back again. Recently purchased 38 deluxe sedan. Came with a bunch of pictures of complete frame off restoration and very nicely done. Did not get any info on the flathead but appears as tho everything on the outside of the engine is rebuilt or new and painted. Previous owner says it has approx 1100 miles since rebuild. Should i try to retorque the head bolts? Pulled plugs and they are all black with soot. Replaced them today. Our elevation here is about 5000 ft and i have driven it about 150 miles so far, so that could cause the black plugs. Adjusted idle mixture today and idles soooo much better. it has a pronounced lope at idle. Does this mean it has a nonstock cam? I plan on smaller main jets in the future.
Having a hard time getting used to the bouncy ride. Has stock everything underneath. Would tube shocks help this issue?
Thanks for any help? If I can figure out how to post pics I will do so.
 
Should not lope at idle. Idle screw adjustment faulty. This could also soot up the plugs. Main jets at 5k altitude 49 or 50. Air cleaner may also contribute to sooty plugs, especially if you have the small chrome aftermarket air cleaner. Knee action shocks are as good as tube shocks if rebuilt correctly. Tubes are easier to find, but don't reinvent the wheel. Don't let anyone tell you your car is an ugly duckling, it's their problem that it's in your garage instead of theirs.


Edit: sooty plugs can also be caused by a faulty power valve. Modern fuel eats rubber parts fast, so the diaphram may be leaking.
 
thanks for the ideas. I will readjust idle mixture and look into the jets and power valve. Carb looks brand new. Have stock air cleaner. Will have to figure out a way to test the original shocks to see if they are working. Any small dip or rise in the road gets her to porposing.
 
Check the fluid level in the shocks, should be filled up to the fill plug hole. Often they become warped or seals deteriorate and they no longer hold fluid, so they can't do their job. There is also an adjustment on the side to change the resistance. If they hold fluid, give that a try.

If your up to attempt a rebuild, it would require making some tooling, but I can post or email the houdaille rebuild manual. There are companies who rebuild them and replacements for sale. May be cheaper to go with tube shocks, depends what you want and your wallet.

There is a few threads on posting pics, feel free to email and I can post them if you'd like. will_drake@hotmail.com

Great car by the way, although I'm biased:p

Edit: disconnect the shock link to work the lever back and forth to test them.
 
Gayle, your wording regarding your shocks (porposing), is telling. Old timers would jump up and down on the bumper to diagnose suspension problems: No movement: frozen shocks. Car continues to bounce after you stop jumping: No shock action at all.
 
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1938 Ford Deluxe Fordor Sedans are good looking, economical old Fords.
I saw pictures of this one on Ford Barn. Very nice.
 
Post a picture of the engine and carburetor. The odds are good that the engine and / or carburetor have been swapped in the decades since the car was built. We need to know if we are helping diagnose an 8BA with vacuum only advance distributor and carburetor, or a 21 stud with a Stromberg, or some other combination.


Also post a picture of the car, 38s are my favorite year Fords.
 
Thanks all for the advice. And nice looking pics of your cars. Mine is a 2 door and I have a couple of pics of the exterior but will get some of the engine bay and send them to WillD so he can post them here. When I get a minute will search for how to post on this site.
Thanks
 
Lubricating the springs will soften the ride ,the spring center bolt should have a fitting, it looks like a grease fitting, but spring lube is thin oil 75/25 with talc, chassis grease will clog the passages and won't go to the tips where the lubricant is needed ---even spraying down the spring with oil can and auto trans fluid will help, douse it good, go for ride, do again
 
Welcome to the barn also check tires are they bias ply or radials air pressure should be between 28 & 32 lbs bias ply will cause a rougher ride
 
Gayles' Ford '38 DeLuxe Tudor Sedan

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Thanks Will for posting my pics. I checked with most of the parts suppliers for smaller main jets (Ford38v8)suggested 49-50 mains. All I could find were smaller than these. I guess I need to pull one of mine to see what number it is and then decide what smaller jets I need?
Will maybe check the shocks tomorrow to see if they have oil and are working. Does anybody know about the "wireless" turn signals that Jay Leno says he uses?
 
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Not only is that one really nice old Ford, but the shop itself (as well as that raggedy ol' Chevy truck) ain't too shabby, either! And WELCOME to the FordBarn!! DD


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Thanks Coop. Ben wanting a nice garage for a loooong time. Finally the wife let me have one, but I had to pay dearly!!! :)

And look at you NOW.....11 whole posts! You should now be able to PM your butt off, as well as being able to list stuff in the "Swap Meet" area. At this rate, you will become a "Senior Member" in no time when you reach 100 posts. Is THIS place great....or what? DD
 
Gayle, Your '38 is a beauty! I do have one off-topic concern, from one picture posted: I see that there is a Body Number? plate riveted to the frame near the steering box. This is a concern because that area of the frame is normally where the serial number is stamped on the frame itself, no plate should be covering that very important number, which should match your DMV registration ownership. I do hope that my concern is proven to be not of consequence.
 
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