36' rear tail pan repair

[ford nut]

has anybody done a repair involving these parts from EMS? do you have any pictures you can show of the work? i'm starting mine very soon, i have the inner piece and might want to reuse the outer skin after tapping it out while it's out and on the bench. i'll include three pics off the web of others doing their repair, never have seen a side shot showing the side seam/weld. thanks for any help, kurt.

 

[Lawson Cox]

Lookin' good.

 

[swedishsteel]

I did this on my 36 coupe. I didn't use all of the path panel, just enough to repair the rust out, which was below the body line so I didn't have to match that. It has been several years, but the only problem/misfit I remember is that the bosses for the bumper mounts weren't tight against the braces on the end of the frame so I had to slide shims between the sheet metal and the brace so the sheet metal wouldn't be distorted when I mounted the bumper and tightened the bolts. The metal is distorted around the bumper mounts so it took some hammer and dolly work to make them look decent, and the shape from side to side wasn't the same--things only the owner will normally see, but "seeable" just the same. Good luck. Don't plan on doing it in a couple hours--a long seam to match and weld.

 

[Kube]

Kurt, I'd not done any 36 repairs with EMS pieces. However, I have (as a last resort) utilized their stiff on other year Fords.
If their '36 parts are anything like other year stuff they offer, be prepared to do a lot of modifying.
Yes, their stuff is better than nothing. However, in a few cases, not much.

Good luck with your project.

 

[TagMan]

I replaced my lower pan rust-out with the patch panel from EMS. My first time replacing a fairly difficult piece, but it came out great. I'll post pics tomorrow.
-Bob

 

[ford nut]

I did this on my 36 coupe. I didn't use all of the path panel, just enough to repair the rust out, which was below the body line so I didn't have to match that. It has been several years, but the only problem/misfit I remember is that the bosses for the bumper mounts weren't tight against the braces on the end of the frame so I had to slide shims between the sheet metal and the brace so the sheet metal wouldn't be distorted when I mounted the bumper and tightened the bolts. The metal is distorted around the bumper mounts so it took some hammer and dolly work to make them look decent, and the shape from side to side wasn't the same--things only the owner will normally see, but "seeable" just the same. Good luck. Don't plan on doing it in a couple hours--a long seam to match and weld.

thanks for your reply. i thought of doing the same (i'll include a pic) as far as "cropping" the patch panel down to the minimum needed. but then i thought if i reuse the original outer sheet metal, i would be in control of where i cut it off at the top horizontal line giving myself more room to work in that tight space. having the panel off, i could really hammer and dolly it out on the bench before re-installing it. new panel or old it has to get welded back on. my inner panel had a spacer spot welded in to make up for any space between body brackets and sheet metal on each side. i think about 12g. thick. i've got lead to melt out, brass to get rid of and two 3-1/2" holes above bumper mounts. it looks like at some point the body mount bolt that go up through the brackets rusted and froze and the nut was spinning in it's cage. it was brazed and leaded. i've allowed 1-1/2 to 2 weeks to make it solid again. here's that picture, not mine, off the web. here's rare shot from the inside!

 

[ford nut]

I replaced my lower pan rust-out with the patch panel from EMS. My first time replacing a fairly difficult piece, but it came out great. I'll post pics tomorrow.
-Bob

thanks, i really would like to see any side shots if you have any. most pics are only from the rear. a picture from the side, fenders off doesn't seem to exist. i guess it will when i'm done.

 

[ford nut]

Kurt, I'd not done any 36 repairs with EMS pieces. However, I have (as a last resort) utilized their stiff on other year Fords.
If their '36 parts are anything like other year stuff they offer, be prepared to do a lot of modifying.
Yes, their stuff is better than nothing. However, in a few cases, not much.

Good luck with your project.

ouch. but you're right. i'm going to replace the trunk floor extension, but the photos are so bad on EMS site i can't get excited about theirs. one photo, none from the side showing a bent edge to weld to wheel well. there are 3 beads rolled into it, but look smaller than my original, although cracked and gas welded part i removed. i think i'll draw it up and have gilbert metal products here in so-cal make it with the right size beads. i'll be posting actual pics of mine when the project is farther along. thank you, kurt.

 

[Gary Tosel]

For 35-36 Fords, there is special washer that is inserted between the frame extension and the rear bumper brackets to prevent the body sheet metal bending in towards the extension. SwedishSteel mentioned this solution.

 

[TagMan]

ford nut,
I wasn't real good about taking pics of every step in replacing the tail pan panel. I start out OK, but then I get into it and forget the pics. In any event, here's the ones I have. Hope they will be of some help,
-Bob

36 Tail Pan Replacement 017 by TagMan, on Flickr

36 Tail Pan Replacement 016a by TagMan, on Flickr

36 Tail Pan Replacement 018 by TagMan, on Flickr

36 Tail Pan Replacement 019a by TagMan, on Flickr

36 Tail Pan Replacement 021a by TagMan, on Flickr

36 Tail Pan Replacement 021b by TagMan, on Flickr

 

[ford nut]

tagman, i don't think i have two parts shown in your first pic. bent metal box's around the bumper mounts. did you leave your inner panel intact? some call it a "tool box" i don't know why, for me thats the main part that need replacing. also, do you remember where made your side seems / welds? was it in the wheel well area, below the fender, or above the fender? good timing with your photos. thanks, kurt.

 

[Blastfromthepast]

I changed the inner patch panel on my 36 with EMS replacement. A couple of things you should know. On your original panel you will have to remove the inner bumper supports that are spot welded and then weld them to your new inner pan. The support brackets are important to support the bumper and also will help with the problem of crushIng the square outer box. You will also have to remove the spot welds of the inner spare tire support bracket which can be done through the trunk area. You will also have to drill several holes on the new inner panel to attach the body to the frame. Try to get them close to the original location or you will have a problem lining it up with the frame. Take your time. You will know what I’m talking about when you remove the inner panel. You will also have to cut the old inner pan out right where it meets the trunk floor. Also some some spot welds where the inner panel touches the wheel well. Take your time and you should be okay.

 

[ford nut]

Blastfromthepast - you have any photos of your repair? i just 10mins ago made the cut. i'm taking a little break, then going back out to look for surprises. i already saw no little square boxes around bumper brackets. i should have more pics later tonight of the "before the cut. and after the cut" and the "where to cut" to late to change horses, i'm committed to whatever i've done.

 

[Blastfromthepast]

Hi Fordnut, tag man has some nice pictures. The way I understand your only removing the inner patch panel. If you notice on tag mans picture of the outer panel removed you will see Cage nuts that you will have to attach to the new panel. Also what you don’t and will see later there are reinforcements that are spot welded where the bumper bolts go through. They will have to be removed from the old panel and welded to the new panel. There is also a weld where the spare tire bracket attaches to the inner panel that has to be separated. Take your time and you run into any problems you will figure out the solution. Not rocket science. You can do it. Keep in touch.

 

[Blastfromthepast]

Just thinking, you may have to take the inner pan out section at a time to reach certain welds. I’m not sure it’s been a while.

 

[ford nut]

i'm still here, keep getting side tracked. i talked to EMS about their trunk floor extension piece, he just wanted to sell and not answer questions or send me pics showing the side detail/ flange, or tell me how it's supposed to tie into the rear inner panel. i'll draw up what i need and take it to a shop here that can do this type of stuff. i had a problem with the 3 beads EMS stamps into theirs. too narrow. i'll post some pics of my mess. i do have a question for those who really know there cars (36' 5w coupe) the picture from underneath looking at the inside wheel well, the trunk floor is level. then the sheet metal drops down to the frame rear cross member, just as the floor drops, there is a angled notch stamped in to the floor, it goes side to side. what is this for? almost like it's for a wood filler plate to keep junk from falling into that space your arm can't fit into. let me know, kurt.

 

[ford nut]

a little more progress, inner pan not welded, still playing with the fit. i'll try and post as many pics as i can so the next poor slob needing to do this will have something to look at in one place. outer skin wanted to fold up like a potato chip when cut away. built up tension from being hit. if anyone wants to add to these photos feel free. here comes a few more. . . .

 

[ford nut]

here are some pictures of the old bumper mounts and the 1/8" bent reinforcement straps that i didn't know about. . . .

 

[Zeke3]

Thanks for all the great pictures and explanation of the tail pan repair. I have to make this repair on my '37 sometime soon.

 

[Blastfromthepast]

Fordnut, those where the reinforcements I was talking about. Good job creating new ones.Don’t forget the cage nuts on the new panel. If you can, line up the old inner panel with the new panel when you drill the new mounting holes to the chassis. If I’m not mistaken there are also cage nut that need to be welded on the left and right sides of the inner panel. It’s where the last whole of the fender mounting bolt is located just as the tail pan curves under the body.great job, take your time. Blast.