'40 Headlight switch

R

russcc

Well-known member
Took the headlight s/w out to clean it, remove the deteriorated wiring and un-solder the terminals.
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I tested it, and it worked fine, but was a little sticky after 80 years. To clean it the 4 tabs that hold the fiber board terminal panel in place have to be bent up. Any tips for minimizing breaking a tab off ? Also, what is suggested as a cleaner/lubricant for the switch mechanism inside.

I plan to solder male slide tabs for push-in wire connectors on to the existing switch terminals.

See photos;
 

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I would definitely solder the new wires to the switch. Those slide connectors can get dirty and loose and that causes high resistance and dim lights.
 
If possible, only bend up the tabs just enough to tilt the backing insulator panel up and out. Be gentle. If a tab does break, you can use a small piece of copper to make a new one.

Re-solder new wires to the existing terminals for best and safest connection. Don't use the slide connectors. Lots of current running thru those wires so you don't want any wires to accidently come off and touch anything resulting in a fire.

PLAY IT SAFE and BUY A NEW SWITCH:

Carpenter sells complete new switches with wires. That's the best way to go as a new switch will solve and minimize future problems.
https://www.dennis-carpenter.com/trucks/electrical/switches/01a-11652-headlight-switch-with-wires
 
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Jim (19Fordy) is 100% correct in his advice.
Me? I'd seek a NOS switch and purchase that. They are readily available and fairly cheap.

Mike Driskell has one on eBay at this moment. $29. My time is worth more than $29. At least I think so :)

eBay item number:352265388212
 
If you want to keep that switch there is a product called electro clean. Take it completely apart tighten the rivets, inspect the contacts and polish them . If every thing is ok reassemble. If the contacts are badly worn out. Buy a repro. JMHO
 
russcc said:
Took the headlight s/w out to clean it, remove the deteriorated wiring and un-solder the terminals.
.
I tested it, and it worked fine, but was a little sticky after 80 years. To clean it the 4 tabs that hold the fiber board terminal panel in place have to be bent up. Any tips for minimizing breaking a tab off ? Also, what is suggested as a cleaner/lubricant for the switch mechanism inside.

I plan to solder male slide tabs for push-in wire connectors on to the existing switch terminals.

See photos;
Click to expand...


I have done many of these and found that you only need to lift the tabs a small amount on the first side and then pull them outward enough to clear the terminal board. Then you only need to slightly lift the tabs on the second side and slide out the board and do your restoration work inside. Good luck. So far I have not broken off a tab using this process......40larry
 
Well...I am of the philosophy that a hobbyist should repair anything that is within his/her capability, and possibly learn something new. A professional restorer might weigh the cost vs. time option, but not me.....after all, it's a hobby. And.....by repairing an original part, that leaves the dwindling supply of NOS parts for guys who have no other option.
 
I am struggling with a replacement dash light dimmer from Carpenter. The bullet ends don't fit in the pockets. They have a brass sleeve installed. Also the 2 wires from the wiring harness are very short.
 
hotrodart: I agree but, when it comes to things electrical, better safe than sorry. I would install a new switch and then repair the used one and save it as a spare.
 
Clem, Could you make up an extension wire to make the wires longer and "joinable"?
Be sure to use heat shrink on your soldered joints.
 
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