'40 rear axle tapered spindle

mike42

mike42

Well-known member
Got my rear drum off with the special tool and as before it came off with a "pop" !

The spindle had some rust on it. Is it okay to take some fine emery cloth and clean up that spindle ? I know from what I was told before that when I reassemble the drum that spindle has to be super clean and dry.

Thx....Mike
 
Best by far would be to use grinding compound with the drum:
Remove the key, put some compound on the taper, install the drum with the nut just tight enough to allow you to spin the drum by hand. This removes all burrs and blemishes from both drum and taper, and mates the pair to each other.
 
ford38v8 said:
Best by far would be to use grinding compound with the drum:
Remove the key, put some compound on the taper, install the drum with the nut just tight enough to allow you to spin the drum by hand. This removes all burrs and blemishes from both drum and taper, and mates the pair to each other.
Click to expand...

My question is how do you get the compound off? I use valve lapping compound and it left a film that I still haven't been able to remove with the usual cleaners.
 
Tim Ayers said:
My question is how do you get the compound off? I use valve lapping compound and it left a film that I still haven't been able to remove with the usual cleaners.
Click to expand...


A shot of brake cleaner and a brass wire brush for in the keyway, another shot of cleaner and a wipe with a shop rag.
 
ford38v8 said:
A shot of brake cleaner and a brass wire brush for in the keyway, another shot of cleaner and a wipe with a shop rag.
Click to expand...

Brake cleaner didn't do it for me. I'll scrub with the brass brush. My compound could be old, but I don't see how that should matter.

I am using the "green" CRC with is the CA friendly version. I'll hunt down the good old red, burn your eyes out when it squirts back at you version.
 
Don't know how bad your spindle is but, I would start with 320, then go to 400, then 600, with a few drops of oil.
 
Guys thx !! I'll use light emery and CRC "Original" to clean. I'll brass brush the keyway also.

I appreciate the help.

Thx...Mike
 
Don't forget to clean out the corners of the keyway slot inside the hub with a strand of stiff copper wire or a pointed dental tool.
 
I've adjusted all the cams so that there should be enough room for Drum to slide on, but it's way too tight and not sliding on very well. Am I missing something ?

Thx.....Mike
 
mike42 said:
I've adjusted all the cams so that there should be enough room for Drum to slide on, but it's way too tight and not sliding on very well. Am I missing something ?

Thx.....Mike
Click to expand...

You sure the parking brake is FULLY released? DD
 
I remember reading years ago that the OEM 40 brake lining material was .18 in. thick.
Just for the heck of it, measure yours.
 
Yes parking brake fully retracted. The other right rear went on easy, but the the drivers rear is really tight !

I’ll measure the lining thickness this morning.

Thx......
 
mike42 said:
Yes parking brake fully retracted. The other right rear went on easy, but the the drivers rear is really tight !

I’ll measure the lining thickness this morning.

Thx......
Click to expand...


Mike, that won't tell you much if your anchors had been adjusted to the previous worn shoes. Retract your anchors, they'll have to be readjusted anyway.
 
38 ....I've retracted the anchors as far as they will go. The drum is stuck on now and have to use the hub puller this morning to get off. Ran out of time last night. I'm wondering if I need to grind down that ridge that forms around the edge of drum from years of wear. I'll check that out today.

Thx.....
 
Drum has no ridge and I can see that no matter where I move the top or bottom adjusters the drum just won't slide into place. I can see on the shoe lining where it's rubbing on the drum. Shoe thickness is .18....... Can I safely sand those areas down ?

Thx....
 
mike42 said:
Drum has no ridge and I can see that no matter where I move the top or bottom adjusters the drum just won't slide into place. I can see on the shoe lining where it's rubbing on the drum. Shoe thickness is .18....... Can I safely sand those areas down ?

Thx....
Click to expand...

Yes, I had to do that with my rear drums. I used some old fashioned chalk and scribbled lines on the shoes. I turned the drum as much as I could and where the chalk was missing was the high spots. Took a bit, I got them to seat perfectly in the drum.

NOTE: Wear a good mask/respirator. There could be asbestos in the lining.
 
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