29 Steering Wheel Play

Model A Ron

Model A Ron

Well-known member
I have a 29 with a 7 tooth box that has about 4"'s of play in the steering wheel. I am not aware of any adjustments on the 7 tooth box aside from a full rebuild. That said I have drag link and tie rod inserts on order from Mike's.......any additional things I need to look at?

Thanks
Ron
 
Does the box have the 600W lube in it?

Do the easy stuff first. tie-rod kits, take up excessive slack in wheel bearings, retighteten the pitman arm.
 
If ya take it apart, take the time to put the correct sector bushings in. Not water pump bushings. Also, put in the tube to reduce the dripping into the headlight switch. Usually the work gear wears a LOT faster than the sector shaft....
 
Gene F said:
Does the box have the 600W lube in it?

Do the easy stuff first. tie-rod kits, take up excessive slack in wheel bearings, retighteten the pitman arm.
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Gene
The box does have 600 lube. I checked the pitman arm and it was tight. I then moved on to the drag link and realized the inserts were shot so I did not even get around to the tie rods......got new inserts on order from Mikes. Did not look at the wheel bearings so I will pack them as well and adjust. Any more areas that I can address? I want to look at everything I can before even thinking about rebuilding the 7 tooth steering box. Thanks for all your help.

Ron
 
no the inserts...were on the same page... Actually the rear hubs being loose can creat wobbles...Don't know if that is an issue or not.
 
I just have 4" play in my wheel. When going over 30 or so I feel like I am fighting left right left right all the time and it needs to be fixed.

I know I should check the tow but I need to get a tow gauge.

Ron
 
If you do end up needing to rebuild the steering column, there's a guy in Durham who rebuilt mine (also a '29) a couple years ago, very reasonably priced.
 
alexiskai said:
If you do end up needing to rebuild the steering column, there's a guy in Durham who rebuilt mine (also a '29) a couple years ago, very reasonably priced.
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Could you send me a PM with name and number of the guy in Durham who rebuilt your steering box? I am going to replace the inserts on the drag link & tie rods and then pack my wheel bearings and adjust them. If I do not end up with an inch or so of play I will get mine rebuilt and be done with the problem.

Thanks
Ron
 
A month or so ago I did a post on how to reduce lash . The worm is "double start" so if you remove the 3 bolt triangular side plate and push the sector out of engagement you then rotate the steering wheel exactly half a turn then push the sector back in engagement . The sector is now engaged on what was the less worn back side of the worm . Check out my previous post for full instructions .

John in Suffolk County England .
 
john charlton said:
A month or so ago I did a post on how to reduce lash . The worm is "double start" so if you remove the 3 bolt triangular side plate and push the sector out of engagement you then rotate the steering wheel exactly half a turn then push the sector back in engagement . The sector is now engaged on what was the less worn back side of the worm . Check out my previous post for full instructions .

John in Suffolk County England .
Click to expand...

John
That seems like a very logical way of reducing play/lash. How does the car steer when you turn the wheel past a half turn and you hit the worn side? I am going to look for your post now.

Thanks for sharing
Ron
 
The Ackerman steering geometry loads the steering to return to ahead so this takes care of any lash that you would feel at the wheel . It might show up on rough roads at speed but I try to avoid that !!!

John still in Suffolk County England .
 
john charlton said:
A month or so ago I did a post on how to reduce lash . The worm is "double start" so if you remove the 3 bolt triangular side plate and push the sector out of engagement you then rotate the steering wheel exactly half a turn then push the sector back in engagement . The sector is now engaged on what was the less worn back side of the worm . Check out my previous post for full instructions .

John in Suffolk County England .
Click to expand...

John, I just finished doing this on a ‘28 Tudor with about 4” of backlash and it worked very well. Thanks for the post, it’s a simple and easy procedure that I would have never thought of.
 
Duganw said:
John, I just finished doing this on a ‘28 Tudor with about 4” of backlash and it worked very well. Thanks for the post, it’s a simple and easy procedure that I would have never thought of.
Click to expand...

John
Could you tell us how the gear comes out? If you have them photos would be great.

Thanks
Ron
 
The Ford F100 1950's era pickup steering gear box sold by various suppliers on the board has minimal free play, about like any modern manual steering vehicle.

Love the one in my '31.

Yeah, I know its not stock, but I like it.
 
You remove the 3 bolt diamond shaped plate .Put the steering wheel dead ahead . Remove the Pitman arm and push on the shaft until the sector just clears the worm . Rotate the steering wheel half a turn and push it back in and reassemble ,just that simple .

John in Suffolk County England .
 
john charlton said:
You remove the 3 bolt diamond shaped plate .Put the steering wheel dead ahead . Remove the Pitman arm and push on the shaft until the sector just clears the worm . Rotate the steering wheel half a turn and push it back in and reassemble ,just that simple .

John in Suffolk County England .
Click to expand...


Thanks John
I am very new to Model A's and I was making it harder in my head than it is. I am going to do this to my car as well......just hope someone did not do it 50 years back :D

Ron
 
Gene
How much play would you say is acceptable? I think an inch is about normal when you have everything dialed in. I have 4 and it is way to much as I am fighting it all the time when I go above 35 or so.

Thanks
Ron
 
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