halibrand models

Darunee

Junior Member
i need some model info on halibrand quick change diff centres, i want to fit the right model in my 1934. i am thinking model 201
 
i need some model info on halibrand quick change diff centres, i want to fit the right model in my 1934. i am thinking model 201

Hey Darunee .....Yes, the 201 is the one you want, especially if you're talking about a "street" type car. You should realize though, that you will have to modify (replace) your rear crossmember in your '34 chassis with the likes of a Model 'A' rear crossmember that kicks-up to clear the center section of the Hal rear. That crossmember will protrude prominently into the rear floor area of your body. And, I'll assume that you realize that they are very noisy (loud whine) going down the road. Think really hard about how badly (and why) you want to do this. And welcome to The FordBarn. Do you have any pictures? We like pictures! DD
 
Also, if you're running a stock fuel tank, you may have a clearance issue with the rear of the Quick Change. In order to put one in, you'll have to pull the body off of the frame, replace the rear cross-member, cut the rear floor-pan and add a "hump" area over the Model A cross member, etc.. If you have a rumble seat - it has to go.

There is a lot of fabrication work associated with putting one in - so you'll need to consider this. Also, you'll need to have work done to your pinion gear to fit the case/bearings and you'll need to be able to setup the gear backlash and mesh.

Lastly, I don't believe your stock torque-tube and drive-shaft will work (as the mounting point is in a different place (is lower) on any quick change center section - so you'll need to modify your torque-tube and rework the driveshaft (I believe the stock ones will be too short). I'm not sure if the early ring and pinion gears will work in the case, so you will need to know what ring and pinion gears you need to work with (prior to the modifications to the pinion gear).

All of this has been done thousands of times before, but you need to know the details before you head down the path. In the end (depending on what level of work you can do, versus farming it all out) - you'll spend North of $3,000 on it . . . and probably over $5,000.
 
Check out a guy with the handle of frames over on the HAMB he sometimes has the 201. Also a company called Rodsville makes a clone of the 201 which is a good product.
 

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that is food for thought ,, i do like the look of the halibrand cover showing

Or, you could have one made from a stock center section by Mike Moore AKA Quickchange Mike. Mike has done his homework and uses a bearing support of his own design that does not use the rear cover to support the rear bearings.

Runs down the road quietly and is much stronger than a Halibrand. He makes approx. 2-3 a year and word has gotten out of these. I was lucky to get one for my 50th birthday last year.

Here are some pictures from the HAMB as to what they look like:

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/who-built-this-qc.1218306/#post-13915081
 
that is food for thought ,, i do like the look of the halibrand cover showing

With the problems these guys are pointing out, I think there are pretty nice lookin' fake covers available. And, they're a lot less than $1500.00.
 
With the problems these guys are pointing out, I think there are pretty nice lookin' fake covers available. And, they're a lot less than $1500.00.

Come-on Tub, are you serious! And any fake cover that looks anything like an original would still have the frame interference issue.
 
If you like the look take a look at the Don Orasco web site for their differential center section. You don't have to modify the rear crossmember.


http://www.montereyspeedandsport.com/catalog/?page=11

I had forgotten about these 'faux' banjos. They are actually quite attractive, but won't fool those that know the score. You still see one pop-up on eBay on rare occasion. Still NOT ever cheap.

Is Monterey S&S still operating now that we've lost Don? DD


OIP.2ILptC2h-X2MF-I1KAzlHwAAAA
 
Come-on Tub, are you serious! And any fake cover that looks anything like an original would still have the frame interference issue.

Like this one that a friend ended-up throwing in the trash. Does ANYONE think this coupe might have needed MORE springs? DD


2014-02-02150652_zpsf2c22ff9.jpg
 
I had forgotten about these 'faux' banjos. They are actually quite attractive, but won't fool those that know the score. You still see one pop-up on eBay on rare occasion. Still NOT ever cheap.

Is Monterey S&S still operating now that we've lost Don? DD


OIP.2ILptC2h-X2MF-I1KAzlHwAAAA

I had an original one and traded it. Seems like it makes would make sense in a FED where you'd want something stronger to protect your family jewels.

If you are going through the hassle of tearing a rear apart, put in what you like. The no-change center doesn't gain you anything in a street car and most have no idea what it is or it's rarity.
 
The no-change center doesn't gain you anything in a street car and most have no idea what it is or it's rarity.

There are 301 sized "no-change" center sections, which would allow one to use the corresponding larger (stronger) ring and pinion.

I don't know if Halibrand ever made one, but some of the competitors did. I have a Benson branded one on the shelf for a "someday" '34 Tudor build.
 
There are 301 sized "no-change" center sections, which would allow one to use the corresponding larger (stronger) ring and pinion.

I don't know if Halibrand ever made one, but some of the competitors did. I have a Benson branded one on the shelf for a "someday" '34 Tudor build.

Yes. Those 11 or 12 bolt "Champ-sized" no changes require adaptor rings for use with Ford bells.
 
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