Accessory fuse panel

bdtutton

Senior Member
Hello,
I am thinking of adding an accessory fuse panel to my 6 V model A to accommodate the additional accessories I plan to add to the car. When I purchased the car it already had turn signals and I have already added a 6 V electric wiper. I am planning to add a domelight, driving lights, back up lights and a USB port to charge my phone.
Before adding all of the accessories I was thinking it made sense to plan out what the wiring would look like and add an accessory fuse panel and I saw the one on Snyder’s website part number A-14304. It looks like it would do the job that I wanted to do, but I was wondering if anyone else had used this or any other accessory fuse panels available?

I guess I have a follow-up question also which is I only have a amp meter that goes plus or minus 20... do I need to replace the amp meter with something better?

Thank you for your feedback....
 
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You will likely need an alternator to pull the current you will need for an increased load. The old 3-brush only puts out enough to run the lights without overloading anything.
 
I guess I did forget to mention that I do have a very nice touring alternator that puts out plenty of power to drive the accessories I plan to add. I am concerned about the amp meter though because it is only a 20 amp amp meter.
 
Whoa! That fuse panel from Snyder's is a little on the expensive side.

I got this 6 fuse panel off eBay for ~ $12. I like it because it has little LEDs to indicate which fuse is blown. Turn signals, Fog Lights, Spot Light, GPS/Phone charger. #3 & 6 are spares.I also have a 20a circuit breaker on the lighting/horn circuit and the 30a circuit breaker main at the starter.

It is mounted on the inside of the firewall behind the gas tank using the same screws as the junction box.

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Whoa! That fuse panel from Snyder's is a little on the expensive side.

I got this 6 fuse panel of of eBay for ~ $12. I like it because it has little LEDs to indicate which fuse is blown. Turn signals, Fog Lights, Spot Light, GPS. #3 & 6 are spares.I also have a 20a circuit breaker on the lighting/horn circuit and the 30a circuit breaker main at the starter.

It is mounted on the inside of the firewall behind the gas tank using the same screws as the junction box.

50149348512_76074f4d5e_z.jpg


That is very nice. Can you provide a link to it?

Thx.
 
I guess I did forget to mention that I do have a very nice touring alternator that puts out plenty of power to drive the accessories I plan to add. I am concerned about the amp meter though because it is only a 20 amp amp meter.
I assume you have a wire running from the alternator to the ammeter. Run a second wire of the same gauge and connect it to the other terminal of the ammeter. Half of your current will go through the ammeter and half will bypass it. When you are charging 40 amps you ammeter will only show 20 and you will have to remember to double the reading. I doubt you charging rate will ever exceed 40 amps.

Charlie Stephens
 
I made this after seeing an article in Model A Mag, looks like it kind of fits the era....
right by my AC compressor and Alt. LOL
 

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Type in "5 Gang Fuse Block" in the "Swap Meet" search box.
Perhaps this is what your looking for, I have a few left.
 
I made this after seeing an article in Model A Mag, looks like it kind of fits the era....
right by my AC compressor and Alt. LOL

Get hip,some stuff is purist approved,like Mitchell overdrives and turn signals..yep,as long as you have the "look" no worries..
 
This Cole-Hersee is what I used. I prefer the glass fuses. It doesn't look as modern as some of the others. Mounted it high on the driver's kick panel. Not cheap- about $25
 

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This Cole-Hersee is what I used. I prefer the glass fuses. It doesn't look as modern as some of the others. Mounted it high on the driver's kick panel. Not cheap- about $25

When your wires are smoking that $25 to $50 investment may have been a good thing. The new/replacement headlight sockets are the cause of a lot of smoking wires/dead cars on the side of the road.
 
My fuse panel. Normally used on boats. It is held onto the firewall with magnets that are glued onto the panel. The hole in the firewall was there already, I just added the grommet to protect the wires.
 

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I guess I have a follow-up question also which is I only have a amp meter that goes plus or minus 20... do I need to replace the amp meter with something better?

To use the original 12 AWG wiring the ammeter should be on a 20A branch circuit serving the battery, with the fuse panel sourced from the generator. The battery normally draws about 1A charge so the stock meter would be fine. However, you won't be able to run heavy accessories with the engine off without risking blowing the battery fuse.
 
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