Where do I go from here??

Blown Gasket

Blown Gasket

Member
We, my wife and I just purchased a 31 Model A roaster that was rebuilt and has 13,000 miles on it. It is being shipped from Alabama to NC and we may have it Fri. I plan on bringing in our heated garage right away and dumping the coolant and will put in green antifreeze and distilled water. It will be stored outside under cover with a form fit cover also. I will check all the fluids and would like to know where to go from here. I have tractors and a backhoe that I do all the maintenance and repairs on so working on the A is no problem, also worked on them when I was a kid. How far should I go on inspection, like pull the hubs and look at the brakes, point, plugs or let sleeping dogs lie. The owner was the owner of a Toyota dealership and had his guys do work on it however working on a new Toyota and a 31 Ford is a little different and that's why I'm changing the coolant. We won't drive it until the spring.
 

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I would check the fluids and drive it. If something feels or sounds bad, go after that item. Don’t go doing a lot of busy work unless you just want to play with it to get to know it. Join a local club ASAP. That’s the way to enjoy your new car. Good luck.
 
About 2 years ago, I bought a 1930 CCPU out of Arizona. The seller had the car worked on at his local Ford dealer before selling. What a stuff up!
They had NO CLUE on the Model A. The brakes had been relined but not arced. The adjustments were all over the place, making the car dangerous under brakes, they filled in the windscreen sticker saying that the next oil change was due in 3,000 miles. Did they not notice there was no oil filter???? The ignition timing was way off and oil levels in the O/D and diff hadn't been checked. I suspect they didn't have the tool to undo the plug so they left it.
The list goes on but suffice to say, be very wary about work done on a Model A by any modern "mechanic".
Check that car thoroughly and satisfy yourself that everything is OK, don't rely on them.
 
I would change the oil and inspect the grease fittings to see if it has been greased recently. And check the brakes to make sure they will stop you. Check the air pressure in the tires make sure the tires are ok. Then drive the heck out of it..
 
Nice looking Roadster, It sounds to me like and looks like the car was well taken care of, drive and enjoy and get with other model A ers, and if you have any problems there sure to help, also stay on the barn it is a big help. A's are pretty easy to work on and there are plenty of helpers out there. Bought mine in 2002 and have logged on over 50,000 miles, had a few problems nothing real serious, but after 50,000 miles I did start loosing power on hill, so rebuilt the engine. Drive and enjoy !!
 
I would be a little concerned using a cover, if you have real decent paint.


the covers like to "chafe"..........
 
First thing I would do is get better storage for it or remove seat cushions to your house or basement,mayby even the top,then cover it.
 
All good advise. Welcome to the hobby. Expect people to wave when you are driving around. Be sure to reward them with a well tuned AH OO GA !!
 
Nice car.
Welcome to the Barn.

Since your not going to be driving it until spring I would suggest leaving the wife's car sitting outside and putting the A inside in her spot. Okay maybe putting it inside in your spot would be better...

Start off by ordering Les Andrew's red book. Spend some time looking it over and checking it out. Of course change the fluids so you know they are good going forward. Check the points, check the timing, take a look at the brakes, repack the wheel bearings... you have the time now. Really be a bummer to fire up the car this spring and find you have a few things holding you back that could have been done in the off season. Sounds like you have the mechanical aptitude for doing this type of stuff.

Reach out to a local club and have someone familiar with the mechanicals of an A stop over to take a look at it.

Just my two cents worth.
 
Good suggestions, I forgot about packing the wheel bearings and I think I will take a look at the brakes. I have a John Deere tractor that we bought new in 2017. I keep it in a small barn near the house. Mice got into the wires while it was still under warranty but I couldn't tell the dealer. I made the repairs and removed the plastic shroud below the dash and left it off, it was a mouse house. Then I wrapped the wires with capsaicin tape and then I leave the hood up after driving it. The mice like the warm engine but no problems so far. I have a backhoe that is left outside all winter and not driven and the mice don't bother it because it's cold. I am building a temporary shelter for the A right next to the house and will remove everything I can that mice will chew on. The fitted cover has a fleece lining but I will check it real good, as the paint does look good and I don't want it messed up, thanks for the input.
 

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If you don't have a garage to store it in, you might look into the mini-storage facilities in your area. That car should not be left outside.
 
I'd drive it! Yeah, Check everything! If the timing is way off, straighten it out. Otherwise, don't touch it! It should start on the second time around if everything is correct. Setting timing is an art, some know and the rest think they know. Give all the zerks a squeeze of grease. Change the oil. DON"T let anyone talk you into single weight, non detergent oil! Whatever 10/30 is on sale at Walmarts will be fine. Change at a 1000 miles. If your tires are Allstate, they'll be hard but pretty reliable. Pump to 35 lbs.Take an oil can to all the moving parts, especially the throttle apparatus/linkage and your engine parts like your distributor, generator, Hood latches and hinges. You'll get the idea! Check the electrical system. If it cranks slow, install a secondary ground from the battery to the engine/starter. That should speed up the cranking and help the ignition. at least a little. Grease in the steering Box!Originally, Henry used the same 600w (not 600 weight) steam Cylinder oil in the Steering Box that he used in the in the transmission and the rear. But it leaks out! So many of us have found John Deere Cornhead grease will work just as well if not better. It comes in grease tubes and costs about $4 a tube. Don't put a zerk in the hole and shoot multi use grease into it! JD Cornhead grease is "Thixotropic" which means it moves around inside the box somewhat on it's own. It doesn't wallow itself into corners and stay there' AND It doesn't leak out! That'll get you started!
Terry
 
One thing I would definitely check before driving it is that the rear hub bolts are fully tight and the hubs pulled up on the tapers. My roadster was run with them loose, as if adjusted for taper roller bearings like the front hubs. I had to lap the tapers together for a proper fit and then install taper shims to keep the hubs away from the backing plates. Without the lapping, the hubs rocked on the axle tapers.
I see you are checking the brakes so will be attending to this.
SAJ in NZ
 
Join a local Model Club. Invite them over for a set and sip. You will learn a lot.

Get a copy of the lube chart.

Thee is also a check list for the car.
 
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