1931 cabriolet roof removal?

E

eric.schaefer

Junior Member
I have a 1931 cabriolet in great original shape, however the soft top roof is ripped and rotten. The car would look a lot better if I could remove the metal roof frame and top and just make it a full convertible. I’ve tried but can not figure out how to remove the metal roof frame. Does anyone have an idea or pictures of what I can do to remove the roof?

Curious if anyone has pictures of what it will look like without a roof sitting above the back seat also
 
eric.schaefer said:
I have a 1931 cabriolet in great original shape, however the soft top roof is ripped and rotten. The car would look a lot better if I could remove the metal roof frame and top and just make it a full convertible. IÂ’ve tried but can not figure out how to remove the metal roof frame. Does anyone have an idea or pictures of what I can do to remove the roof?

Curious if anyone has pictures of what it will look like without a roof sitting above the back seat also
Click to expand...
Don’t get rid of the roof structure as it is somewhat valuable. You’ll be sorry you didn’t replace the roof during the first rain storm!
 
Is there a way to do both? Right now the canvas is so ripped it’s not keeping any water out and looks terrible. Is there a way to remove the metal frame, and drive it as is. And then later on if I want to spend the 800$ on a new roof canvas I can put the metal frame back on the car and put a roof on?
 
It looks really ugly folded down. It’s moldy and ripped up. The car is in great shape other than this top. I guess I was thinking it would be easy to just unbolt the top and remove it completely for now. But I can’t seem to figure out how to unbolt it and remove it
 
That top is tacked to the body wooden structure
Once off not easily back on....and if as u say would likely ruin it taking off
 
..
A top boot would solve your problem.
 

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Maybe get an upholstery shop to make a boot to fit over the folded down top...Shouldn't be too expensive.


TOB
 
The top irons are mounted to the triple hinge plate at the belt rail behind the door. It has a leg that goes vertical through the wood at the rear of the door post wood for the two horizontal screws.This plate has 6 screws, 4 vertical through the belt rail & 2 horizontal through the the top of the door latch post. You will need to remove the upholstery at the ends of the package tray & side panel next to the seat back. The vertical screw nuts are a bear to reach, up, inside the 1/4 panel behind the belt rail wood. An easier alternative is to remove the pin holding the two top iron hinge plates and leave the bottom plate on the belt rail, although the pins might be difficult to remove. Good luck.
 
Whatever you do, you should protect the belt rail wood (the wood that is bolted to the top of the body between the rumble seat and front seat). It is very difficult to make, it took most of the summer for me! Do not drive in the rain because you don't want to get the wood that is bolted to the frame wet. That took me all summer in 2018! You have a very nice Model A but it is a nightmare to restore. Good luck and enjoy, Ed
 
Hello Ray, I am at the point in my restoration where I have to drill the 5/16 in. and 1/4 in. hole in the door post to fasten the triple hinge plate. How do I accurately make these two holes so that when I put the two screws into the door post they will thread into the tapped holes in the triple hinge. A previous owner drilled two huge holes in the old door post wood so that he could thread the screws into the triple hinge. It looked awful and it weakened the door post. Thanks for our help. Ed
 
Ed, The metal door post cover plate has the two holes in it for the screw heads. After fitting the cover plate onto the wood the two holes locate the screw holes. You might have to oval out the back end of the screw holes to allow a direct shot to the threaded holes in the triple hinge base plate. Be sure to clean all the threads in the hinge base plate holes before putting it all together. Ray
 
Eric, Can you please post a picture?


Honestly it sounds like you have a sport coupe as the cabriolet does not have a metal frame for the top. It is wood with a few metal pieces to hold it together. It comes apart very easy with a few wood screws. As a cabriolet owner I have some experience with the top.

To be sure please post some pictures so we can give you better guidance.
 
Hello Ray, I apologize if it looks like I hijacked this post. Thank you for your comments. What you describe is exactly what I have on my original door post, a very ugly exit hole, it appears that the factory didn't know how to precisely drill these holes either. Also, I have the job of accurately mounting the triple hinge after I get the belt rail made and secured to the car. I would guess that the belt rail must be removed for the 100th time after I mark the location for the triple hinge.
 
Ed, The triple hinge is the heart of all headaches on the cabriolet. When doing the final fitting be sure to check the height of the folding door/window post (B pillar?) in the up position for the clearance of the post top plate and rubber weather strip. I have my top irons & landau bars mounted but might have to adjust them once the body is on the completed chassis. Right now it is fit on my"jig frame", an "A" frame w/o running board brackets to spare my shins & knees.
 
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