1940 Brake Bleeding

One last question and I promise not to bother you again.....put the drum on and put in that small gasket & washer....screwed the bolt on and if I tighten too tight in order to get the cotter pin in....the wheel is tight to turn the wheel. If I back it off just a touch so I can put in the cotter pin......the wheel turns fine.
Sooooo...question is .....would the nut be too loose by just backing it off a bit ?

Thx....Mike
 
Old time mechanics didn't have torque wrench pretty much there was snug --snug up the pan bolts tight--tighten the head nuts ,and good and tight--put a pipe on the wrench and jump on it.
the rear axle nuts are in the range of good and tight
Can you tell if it is rubbing on the shoes ,or backing plate, there can be a ridge in the drum rubbing on the edge of the shoes, --for this chamfer the edge of shoes with file, if rubbing on backing plate look for bent backing plate if it only rubs at one spot, worn taper on axle or hub if all around, they have shims for this at the parts places
??Is the axle keyway worn, --the key fit loose in groove, there can be burrs that need to be addressed
 
mike42 said:
One last question and I promise not to bother you again.....put the drum on and put in that small gasket & washer....screwed the bolt on and if I tighten too tight in order to get the cotter pin in....the wheel is tight to turn the wheel. If I back it off just a touch so I can put in the cotter pin......the wheel turns fine.
Sooooo...question is .....would the nut be too loose by just backing it off a bit ?

Thx....Mike
Click to expand...
You did not say whether you are talking about the front or rear but assuming it is the front wheel bearing adjustment, this is generally the procedure.
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mike42 said:
One last question and I promise not to bother you again.....put the drum on and put in that small gasket & washer....screwed the bolt on and if I tighten too tight in order to get the cotter pin in....the wheel is tight to turn the wheel. If I back it off just a touch so I can put in the cotter pin......the wheel turns fine.
Sooooo...question is .....would the nut be too loose by just backing it off a bit ?

Thx....Mike
Click to expand...

Hey Mike.....You say...."the wheel is tight to turn the wheel". Did you mean to say something like:

"If I tighten the NUT enough to line-up the holes, neither the wheel nor axle will turn"?

And then, if you loosen the nut ONE notch, the wheel and axle WILL turn?

IF THIS is what is happening, I would think that there is a problem that needs, at the least, some serious scrutiny. Kurt addresses some real possibilities in post #142 above. It's hard for me to imagine tightening that nut only one notch's worth, and having enough effect that it moves the drum inboard enough to hinder rotation. Almost makes me consider a cracked hub in that drum, or possibly even a crack at the inboard end of the axle keyway, and man, I hope it ain't THAT. Generally, I wouldn't feel badly about loosening the nut ONLY one notch (although you ain't supposed to), but there is certainly something ELSE going-on there that needs to be rectified. But WTF do I know? Happy Thanksgiving, Mike! DD






........
 
51 MERC-CT said:
You did not say whether you are talking about the front or rear but assuming it is the front wheel bearing adjustment, this is generally the procedure.

MERC....Mike had been working on the RIGHT, REAR. He previously said that he had already done the fronts. DD
Click to expand...
 
Mike, I know this sounds stupid but, gently install the drum and hub without the keyway and see what happens.
 
Guys thx....want to get this buttoned up before the snow storm today.

Coop...yes exactly as you stated. If I tighten to be able to insert cotter pin the wheel will not turn. If I back it off just a bit and insert pin it's turns fine.

I had no probs with front. The nut happen to be almost inline with cotter pin hole !

Thx all very much !

Mike
 
No good, Mike. The nut needs to be extremely tight. and everything still needs to be free to turn.

You need to tighten it as much as you can and still be able to turn it. You can then pull it apart and look to see what is rubbing.

Have you adjusted them carefully taking into consideration the lower eccentric pivots?

Having it loose would be ok for just manoeuvring around the yard but for proper on road use you need the nuts very tight.

Loose nuts on the road lead to axle keyway fatigue and cracking and ultimately axle failure.

Mart.
 
Mart.....going out today when it gets a little warmer (23º now) to tighten things up.

Thx for the info.

Mike
 
Yes, very tight. "tighten nut 356074-S to 200-220 foot pounds; then continue to the next castellation providing final resultant torque does not exceed 275 foot pounds.”

It is not the key that keeps the hub from rotating on the axle, it is the pressure on the taper from the nut. The tapers need to be very clean, smooth and dry when the hub is installed.
 
Guys....we got 5" of snow yesterday and I didn't get out to the barn. I've made a copy of all this and will pursue it as soon and things clear up.

Thx...Mike
 
mike42 said:
Guys....we got 5" of snow yesterday and I didn't get out to the barn. I've made a copy of all this and will pursue it as soon and things clear up.

Thx...Mike
Click to expand...

Hey Mike..........It's 61°F here. Gonna be 72° this afternoon. NO snow here!

Yeah, I know....I KNOW! DD
 
Coop & Fordy......the World does not need anymore comedians !!!

Happy Turkey to you guys also.

Mike
 
Well......I torqued hex nut to 150 ft lbs and inserted cotter pin. Buttoned up til Spring now.

Thx....MIke
 
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