1940 Brake Bleeding

Atmospheric pressure only, that's why whoever is helping doesn't let the pedal up until you close the bleeder and tell them to let up. If not you suck air back into the slave cylinder and/or line when they let up on the pedal.
 
glennpm said:
Atmospheric pressure only, that's why whoever is helping doesn't let the pedal up until you close the bleeder and tell them to let up. If not you suck air back into the slave cylinder and/or line when they let up on the pedal.
Click to expand...
The original poster has installed 'Speed bleeders' so sucking air back into the system is not a factor.
 
Coopman...that Korbel note was funny as I had a guy in Germany who drank that and I always stayed with the Jack.

So....my brake pedal has gone to the floor several times in this long process. Have I created some damage in doing so ?

Drum is going on this morning and I'm going to start the process over again.

Once again.....you fill the master.....pump the pedal.....and turn off the speed bleeder as you refill the master and then turn on the bleeder while I pump the pedal again ? Am I getting that correct ? It's 33º here now and I hope I don't have to start drinking again this morning !!

Thx much..... Mike
 
mike42 said:
Coopman...that Korbel note was funny as I had a guy in Germany who drank that and I always stayed with the Jack.

So....my brake pedal has gone to the floor several times in this long process. Have I created some damage in doing so ?

Drum is going on this morning and I'm going to start the process over again.

Once again.....you fill the master.....pump the pedal.....and turn off the speed bleeder as you refill the master and then turn on the bleeder while I pump the pedal again ? Am I getting that correct ? It's 33º here now and I hope I don't have to start drinking again this morning !!

Thx much..... Mike
Click to expand...
With the Speed bleeder open, pump the pedal 2-3 times, close the bleeder. (do this just once)
You should not have to add brake fluid at this point but check it and add if necessary.

NOW go to opposite side and do the same.
 
JSeery said:
Ok, I will modify my post. I have never attempted to bleed brakes without the drums on and the way I bleed them it would not work. I put a lot of pressure on the brake pedal, and thus the hydraulics, and it would over power the return springs.
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Bleeding brakes without the drums on is pretty risky, Easy to blow your wheel cylinders apart.
Bill
 
34PKUP: How much pressure is being is being exerted on the wheel cylinder when the bleeder is open and the brake pedal goes to the floor?


You seem to use a different method of bleeding brakes than I do. I have never used speed bleeders or any other aids like that. Been doing brakes from the time I was around 14 and have never had the slightest problem bleeding them. The way I have always done them you apply a lot of foot pressure on the brake pedal, crack the bleed screw, then retighten it. I'm sure there are other ways to go about it, but so far I'll stick with what has worked 100% of the time for me. :)
 
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JSeery said:
You seem to use a different method of bleeding brakes than I do. I have never used speed bleeders or any other aids like that. Been doing brakes from the time I was around 14 and have never had the slightest problem bleeding them. The way I have always done them you apply a lot of foot pressure on the brake pedal, crack the bleed screw, then retighten it. I'm sure there are other ways to go about it, but so far I'll stick with what has worked 100% of the time for me. :)
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By all means, you should continue using whatever method works for you.
'Speed bleeders' are a different animal.
The pedal is depressed while the bleeder is open and without pre-pumping to build up pressure.
Then, after a few pumps and with the pedal in the return position, the bleeder is closed without ever putting pressure on the wheel cylinder.
This is possible because the bleeder has a check valve built in so that on the back stroke no air is allowed to be sucked back into the system, like standard bleeders that have to be closed after each stroke.
 
34PKUP said:
How much pressure is being is being exerted on the wheel cylinder when the bleeder is open and the brake pedal goes to the floor?
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To reiterate my post #11:
I believe my quote is perhaps the best way I am able to respond...
 
W O W..... 32 posts, just to bleed f-n brakes? I just finished brakes on a 52 Willys, starting with a completely 'open', 'empty' system. Took about two of those small cans. Never knew I had to know all that is posted here. Whew... I'm exhausted.
 
bobH said:
W O W..... 32 posts, just to bleed f-n brakes? I just finished brakes on a 52 Willys, starting with a completely 'open', 'empty' system. Took about two of those small cans. Never knew I had to know all that is posted here. Whew... I'm exhausted.
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Funny/Sad/Spot-on! WHEW....I feel kind'a 'whooped' now, too! DD
 
Guys I worked on it today and it’s getting better but we have snow coming in northern Michigan the next couple days. Barn not heated so I think this will have wait til Spring. I appreciate all the help and I’ll be back in touch. I saved all this info to refer to in Spring.

Thx.....Mike
 
Mike, Wow, i looked on the map and you are pretty far North. Can you buy a little space heater and get the job done before spring?
I know that's easy for me to say living in FL where its 78 right now.
Any neighbors who could help you?
 
bobH said:
W O W..... 32 posts, just to bleed f-n brakes? I just finished brakes on a 52 Willys, starting with a completely 'open', 'empty' system. Took about two of those small cans. Never knew I had to know all that is posted here. Whew... I'm exhausted.
Click to expand...

Can't disagree with that! :)
 
Fordy..... I live on a big Lake up here and only have a couple of neighbors through the Winter season. In fact we have 2 ladies pass away this last month and there’s really no one around. I’ll probably try to work a little bit with the heater I’ve got but it’s pretty cold and snow tonight and morning. I’ll advise.

Thx........Mike
 
speedbleeders are one of the best things I ever bought. After reassembling the diff and installing it I pumped the pedal slowly, always slowly and not all the way to the floor on a single circuit system. Cracked the far RHS bleeder open and I heard a rush of air, then a further 5 pumps making sure the clear tube has fluid with no air lock it off over to the other side 5 pumps done! Didn't even worry about the front, nice hard pedal and all done myself, easy.
 
Talkwrench said:
speedbleeders are one of the best things I ever bought. After reassembling the diff and installing it I pumped the pedal slowly, always slowly and not all the way to the floor on a single circuit system. Cracked the far RHS bleeder open and I heard a rush of air, then a further 5 pumps making sure the clear tube has fluid with no air lock it off over to the other side 5 pumps done! Didn't even worry about the front, nice hard pedal and all done myself, easy.
Click to expand...

I believe pushing pedal SLOWLY is the 'key' element here. DD
 
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