Okay! The confusion (to me) was because the frame rails are "pinched" in this area of the frame giving the illusion that one hole is closer to the frame rail than the other. Not so! The bracket holes should be drilled the same distance from the frame. I take it you are building without fenders...Hiboy?
Pat[/QUOTE]
Yes! A "VERY" traditional Hiboy! I am using a 99% original frame, gas tank, suspension, axles, 'bones' trans, 'hind' end, steering wheel, column, drop, dash, '52 SW tach and column mount, and only 3 body parts. (can't afford any more) > Re-pop, houldiallies (however you spell it) ductal front motor mounts, Hudson steering box and adjustable drag link, and a few other doo-dads and gee-haws that are 'original' re-productions.
I see where most of the Hiboys (traditional, and Hiboys that are 2" off the ground,,,,,,. How can a vehicle be called "Hi-boy" and have less than a pack of Camels or Luckys ground clearance!?) that have complete hoods, have a little 1/8th" thick 'tab' welded to the frame. >
I do NOT want to weld 'anything' to the frame, and only drill any extra holes if I absoultely 'have to'! >
I have made several parts out of stainless, and polished them, for 'old timey' bling. I am making a couple of stainless brackets that will incoperate OEM frame holes for the back hood latch brackets. >
The left, driver's, side is easy! Just come off the little triangle reinforcement 'washer' that bolts on the outside of the frame where the Hudson box bolts through, that I made out of stainless, with a 'tab.' Either weld the latch bracket 'tab' to the triangle piece, or make the hood latch mounting 'tab' and the steering box triangle piece all one piece,,,,.
The right, passenger, side the center of the 'tab' (23" back from the center of the front latch, (or center of front mounting holes to rear mounting holes) in the frame, is right smack dab in the middle of three OEM frame holes. 1/4", 5/16" and 11/16" and just under 4" spacing between them. >
I have made a couple of bracket styles outta sheet metal and cardboard. But I don't like looks of either one.
Oh well, I'll come up with something,,,,,,.
So you see it is very pertinent that I get the percise measurement of the rear mounting holes, 'outward' from the frame. Once the hood goes on, it's not coming back off! Meaning. It's gotta be correct the first time around!
Ok, 'update'. Guy in the next town down from me has a all (100%) original, (early '50's hot rod) full fendered 5-W body, on an aftermarket chassis suspension, steering. The left, driver's side, rear latch mounting hole center measurement is 3" out from the inside frame lip!
Question. Is the aftermarket (I forget the name of his chassis. It's one of the better brands. Big $$) throwing the driver's side off? Or! Is the driver's side a different measurement than the passenger side!?
As they say, "Inquiring Minds Want To Know"
Thanks again for the info!
