Sound deadening? Anyone done it?

CC-Mo

Member
Ok, I've got a '30 Sedan. All original. 50's looks like "brush" exterior paint job..
I'm in the process of removing interior metal bits for repaint. The car currently has no interior panels.
I've removed floor boards for clean/paint, ordered heat shield film, edge wrap & also 80 mil sound deadening for under the floor boards.
The plan is to do inner doors, firewall & pretty much the full interior body with the sound deadener.
I recently rode in a fully restored '30 Sedan with a full interior w/ no insulation or sound deadening. It was super quiet inside.
Anyone else done this? How were the results to do away with the metallic sounds?
 
Lots of restorers do it all the time (and some do not)...many ways to accomplish this.

There is material that one can spray on, brush on, or paste panels on all interior metal areas before assembling the interior panels. Some go overboard to accomplish the end results.

I would think just the doors would be sufficient.

Not that it makes a difference but is yours a Tudor or Fordor "Sedan"?

Pluck
 
Lots of restorers do it all the time (and some do not)...many ways to accomplish this.

There is material that one can spray on, brush on, or paste panels on all interior metal areas before assembling the interior panels. Some go overboard to accomplish the end results.

I would think just the doors would be sufficient.

Not that it makes a difference but is yours a Tudor or Fordor "Sedan"?

Pluck
Thanks Steve, mine is a Tudor. The product I've ordered is Noico 80 mil in black.
I'm planning to cover the bottom of the floorboards & then proceed to the interior panels if I like the way works.
Also just received the floorboard screw set from Berts. The car had none previously. So it has lots of "character" sounds now while driving.
 
I used starter roofing shingles to dampen the body panels from vibrating, and HVAC duct insulation material.
 

Attachments

  • 190A Sound Deadening, Rear Panel 364kb.jpg
    190A Sound Deadening, Rear Panel 364kb.jpg
    71.5 KB · Views: 135
  • 190A Insulation, RH Rear Quarter 530kb.jpg
    190A Insulation, RH Rear Quarter 530kb.jpg
    97.3 KB · Views: 125
Yep, add me to the list too. We even do it on open cars also.

Below are pix of a Fordor, Tudor, and a Roadster. Just understand that Dynamat is a good vibration damper but not a good insulator. The bubble-filled metallic foil is a good insulator however not a good vibration absorber. Each has its place.

Also remember to insulate the roof with jute and the bubble insulation.

.
.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_4798.jpg
    IMG_4798.jpg
    59.1 KB · Views: 124
  • IMG_0018.jpg
    IMG_0018.jpg
    117.2 KB · Views: 125
  • IMG_4833.jpg
    IMG_4833.jpg
    95.4 KB · Views: 130
  • IMG_4840.jpg
    IMG_4840.jpg
    104.1 KB · Views: 126
  • IMG_4781.jpg
    IMG_4781.jpg
    82.9 KB · Views: 108
  • IMG_4780.jpg
    IMG_4780.jpg
    71.4 KB · Views: 113
  • IMG_8004.jpg
    IMG_8004.jpg
    67.6 KB · Views: 113
  • IMG_7978.jpg
    IMG_7978.jpg
    74.1 KB · Views: 115
  • IMG_8007.jpg
    IMG_8007.jpg
    66.1 KB · Views: 109
On my '31 CCPU (with the steel top). I've got a mix of things I used:
• Firewall - Quiet Ride
• Cowl & Door Panels - Dynamat
• Roof - Road Kill

I haven't done the floorboards or the rest of the cab yet, but will probably use Road Kill for the cab, haven't decided on what to use for the floorboards.
 
I, too, used self-adhesive HVAC insulation. Not as good as Dynamat, but inexpensive. Also, I find that a lot of the squeaks come from anywhere wood meets metal. For that I used fabric, or sometimes Gorilla Tape at the seems, especially in the roof frame. It made a big difference.

Ken
 
Dynamat in my '30 CCPU and '28 Tudor helped a lot, especially in the Tudor. I didn't bother in the Phaeton - couldn't see the point nor in my "barn find" Ute.
 
I’ve used the noico stuff on my 31 coupe and my 51 merc its good stuff if you follow the directions. Once you get it rolled down real good it’s. Not coming off easily
 
Yep, add me to the list too. We even do it on open cars also.

Below are pix of a Fordor, Tudor, and a Roadster. Just understand that Dynamat is a good vibration damper but not a good insulator. The bubble-filled metallic foil is a good insulator however not a good vibration absorber. Each has its place.

Also remember to insulate the roof with jute and the bubble insulation.

.
.
Very well done! That's exactly what I plan for the interior panels. For the floor, I bought the OEM style heavy floor mats, & will add the heat deflect wrap over the Noico on the bottom side of the floorboards.
Great pics & thanks for that.
 
I, too, used self-adhesive HVAC insulation. Not as good as Dynamat, but inexpensive. Also, I find that a lot of the squeaks come from anywhere wood meets metal. For that I used fabric, or sometimes Gorilla Tape at the seems, especially in the roof frame. It made a big difference.

Ken

My original floorboard edge wrap is very deteriorated. I've got new wrap ordered along with new screws because most of mine were missing. I currently have so many noises going on, I'm anxious to start weeding them all out!
Thanks for all the pics & info guys!
 
Back
Top