High Output Water Pump

Old Redneck

Well-known member
On my 56 T-Bird with Power Steering how much trouble is it to install the High Output Water Pump? Any of you fellows done this? Did it help overheating at low speeds?
 
No more trouble than changing a stock water pump I'd guess. You'll probably have to re-gasket the water pump spacer at the same time. There is a new pump spacer available with a beveled edge inside for better flow. (last photo)

Is the Temp gauge showing on the hot side or is it actually spitting coolant out past a good radiator cap?
The gauge can easily be incorrect, double check the engine temp at the back of the thermostat housing with a heat gun from the hardware store.

If the 60+ yr old rubber diaphragms in the double-sided vacuum canister on the distributor have a leak in either side or the points plate is stuck the timing won't advance properly and cause overheating.
https://www.ctci.org/cracked-exhaust-manifold/

More overheating causes...
https://www.ctci.org/1955-56-57-thunderbird-overheating/

general Baby Bird tech info....
https://www.ctci.org/gilsgarage/

After all these years one of the bigger causes of overheating is sediment in the water jackets. (first 3 photos)
 

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No I got the HD Fan 6 blades. On the road normal driving the temp stays in the middle. The reason I want to install Air Conditioning down the road. This is the first step in doing this. I just got a heat gun to check the temp. I got a 170 thermostat to install. So far the heater blows cold air no heat? I an also installing a Radiator Overflow Tank because when I got home the Radiator was a little low. Thanks for the information and that a big help.
 
I got a 170 thermostat to install. So far the heater blows cold air no heat?
Go to the COOLANT SECTION in your SHOP MANUAL and it will give a DIAGNOSTIC SEQUENCE to find the cause of no heat. Easiest way out.

Be sure to fully read the WP website as it contains a lot of TECH and explains fully why the BIRD overheats. The WP eliminates the WP spacer so that problem is also solved.

WRONG!

Refer to post(s) #6 and #8.
 
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. . . I got a 170 thermostat to install. So far the heater blows cold air no heat? I an also installing a Radiator Overflow Tank because when I got home the Radiator was a little low. Thanks for the information and that a big help.
The heater controls are usually vacuum operated with a valve on the side of the heater box above the left foot of the passenger. There may also be a vacuum operated water control valve on the front of the intake manifold just above the thermostat. The new/replacement valves are made 'off-shore', they are pricey and tend to leak or fail quickly.
If it isn't operating you'll get no hot water flow thru the heater core.
Fyi, if you're installing a 'large opening' thermostat the install instructions say to cut a portion of the lower tube off the valve, to clear the back of the thermostat.

Heated coolant expands a bit so it is normal for the coolant level in the radiator to be an inch or so below the neck of the upper tank when cold.

The "Knowledge Base" link on that page opens another document with water flow tests and graphs.

the T-Bird water pump spacer is still necessary, quoted from the High Output Water Pump page... (bold added)
"The pump only fits on Thunderbird engines. They can be identified by the 1" or so spacer that is situated between the water pump and the timing chain cover. It is the extra room created by the spacer that this pump exploits with extra fins on the back of the water pump impeller."
.
 

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I got all the bills that was done to the T-Bire when it was restored 30 years ago. Since when it was restored only 1,067 miles has been put on the car.300 of those miles I put on. It just sat in my Brother-in Law's garage covered up so it did not get dirty. Tires flat when I got it. He never did try to correct any of the problems with the car.I think it a repo water control valve like everything else on the car. The fellow that my Brother in Law got the car from went to prison shortly after that. He was a bit shady been in prison a couple of times that I know of. At least I got a clean title.
 
The "Knowledge Base" link on that page opens another document with water flow tests and graphs.

the T-Bird water pump spacer is still necessary, quoted from the High Output Water Pump page... (bold added)

"The pump only fits on Thunderbird engines. They can be identified by the 1" or so spacer that is situated between the water pump and the timing chain cover. It is the extra room created by the spacer that this pump exploits with extra fins on the back of the water pump impeller."
.

I stand corrected. I was under the impression the pump had beem modified as below -

It would also benefit with the use of the re-designed spacer.
 

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