Help - 47' Gas Tank Fix or Replacement

Drbrown

Drbrown

Well-known member
Been a bunch of time since I've been here and need some help.

My '47 long-door coupe started bucking and choking yesterday. My first hunch seemed correct as I found sediment and scale in the glass bowl of the fuel pump. It had been okay since I first owned it.

As I remember options: (1) clean and coat interior of existing tank; (2) Find someone who can take it apart and regalvanize it; (3) buy new metal; (4) buy a polypropylene replacement [if avail].

I'd prefer a metal replacement but who makes them these days ? Seem to recall postings that said no major problems with getting one with good fit.

Also, the tank is about half full. It has a drain plug but how does one drain the tank safely, and get rid of the old gas ? (I don't smoke) Thanks !

I'd appreciate some comments and recommendations. I live in upper NY State.
 
Drake makes about the best metal replacement tank there is for your car. That is what we stock.
As for draining yours. Just pull the plug and drain it, and keep smokers and kids lighting fireworks away!
 
Dr. When I drained the tank in my '46 Super Deluxe Coupe, I had it up on jack stands for access. It also had about a half tank (7-8 gal) of gas in it. I got two 5 gal jerry cans and used the old "suck and spit" hose to syphon the tank as empty as I could get it. The drain plug was rounded off and I was concerned that it would be seized. It was free, so I put a 2 gal capacity catch pan under the tank and pulled the plug. about a gallon came out and no issues.

By the way. I'm confused on the terms "Long Door Coupe" and "Sedan Coupe". I was told at a car show that I had a Sedan Coupe because it had a back seat. Are the two terms the same in describing the car, or what is the difference?
 
Hi; I just finished draining the 4 yr old gas from my '48 cpe. I had a small ball valve with the same pipe thread as the plug- easy pulled plug and inserted the valve [open] then closed valve. Now gas flow was controlled into drain pan. Got 8 gallons out.- replaced plug with teflon on threads. Newc
 
51woodie said:
Dr. When I drained the tank in my '46 Super Deluxe Coupe, I had it up on jack stands for access. It also had about a half tank (7-8 gal) of gas in it. I got two 5 gal jerry cans and used the old "suck and spit" hose to syphon the tank as empty as I could get it. The drain plug was rounded off and I was concerned that it would be seized. It was free, so I put a 2 gal capacity catch pan under the tank and pulled the plug. about a gallon came out and no issues.

By the way. I'm confused on the terms "Long Door Coupe" and "Sedan Coupe". I was told at a car show that I had a Sedan Coupe because it had a back seat. Are the two terms the same in describing the car, or what is the difference?
Click to expand...

Yep mean the same thing.
 
Drbrown,
For the reasonable cost of a new tank and the subsequent confidence you'll get from it, I'd strongly suggest you replace it... avoid the frustrations surely to come with the old tank.
As Mr. Driskell has advised, Drake makes a very nice tank for your car and it's easy to install. I know, I've installed two in these models.
 
I've seen members/owners use both terms in describing the Sedan or Long Door coupe. I suspect the official term is "Sedan". In regard to the gas tank, probably all '47's (or other years) use the same tank.
 
Thanks to all for your quick responses. Yes, I'd be concerned about trying to coat/seal up the existing tank; one doesn't know how thin so areas might be corroded. I'll check with Dakes' and hope he's got one in stock.
 
I think mine came from Drake years ago, it fit no problem. I recently cleaned the one in my '40 because it didn't look too bad, but I still had an issue with a plugged fuel line. In retrospect I should have just changed it also. As for the gas, I'd drain it into a large drain pan, then strain it and pour it back in the tank when you're done.
 
Issue resolved. Just ordered an in-stock replacement from Drake. Yes, they use part #11A-9002 for the tank, which fits 1941 thru 1948 Fords (I guess all models ?). However, hole for sensor unit in their replacement is smaller than stock and of course they sell a new sender unit to fit in either 6 or 12 volt - part #99A-9275. My ford was converted to 12 volt and I have Runtz voltage reducers on each dash gauge. So ordered the 12 volt sender and will remove the voltage reducer from the gas gauge. I've read posts about problems with different types of sender units i.e. stock vs. resister type and hope what Drake sends me works. If not, I'll adapt the existing stock sender to the tank somehow.

Otherwise, have an electric pump at tank outlet for priming carb at start-up but its the "flow-thru" type and should give no problem. Although the engine was hard-starting due to sediment in carb, it would run but suffered from inadequate gas flow. I'm cleaning the mechanical pump, carb and will gently blow out the fuel line before installing the new tank.

Although not an inexpensive solution, this is a good investment in a great car.
 
Drbrown said:
Issue resolved. Just ordered an in-stock replacement from Drake. Yes, they use part #11A-9002 for the tank, which fits 1941 thru 1948 Fords (I guess all models ?). However, hole for sensor unit in their replacement is smaller than stock and of course they sell a new sender unit to fit in either 6 or 12 volt - part #99A-9275. My ford was converted to 12 volt and I have Runtz voltage reducers on each dash gauge. So ordered the 12 volt sender and will remove the voltage reducer from the gas gauge. I've read posts about problems with different types of sender units i.e. stock vs. resister type and hope what Drake sends me works. If not, I'll adapt the existing stock sender to the tank somehow.

Otherwise, have an electric pump at tank outlet for priming carb at start-up but its the "flow-thru" type and should give no problem. Although the engine was hard-starting due to sediment in carb, it would run but suffered from inadequate gas flow. I'm cleaning the mechanical pump, carb and will gently blow out the fuel line before installing the new tank.

Although not an inexpensive solution, this is a good investment in a great car.
Click to expand...

I think you'll be pleased with the outcome sans the sending unit. Those units are poopy.
 
The issue with the sending unit is not who sells them, but resistance type vs pulse-current type. You'll just have to see if you can live with the resistance type, it does not provide the same curve to the gauge as the fuel level changes as the original unit does.
 
JSeery said:
The issue with the sending unit is not who sells them, but resistance type vs pulse-current type. You'll just have to see if you can live with the resistance type, it does not provide the same curve to the gauge as the fuel level changes as the original unit does.
Click to expand...


This is true, and I can check three of the same reproduction units and thay can vary in resistance. What I do, is measure the depth of the tank, and mount the repoduction sending unit to the edge of a 2x4. I hook it up to the car and externally bend the arm until the full and empty level reads right. It's a a little time consuming but have worked well for me.

It's important to remember these units (primarily made by carpenter) are a "one size fits all" for 1936-55 Fords.
 
As Michael described, the sender arms need to be adjusted. I had a generic sender until I found and rehabbed an original KS. It is a bit of trial and error, but it helps to make the sender a bit more accurate. I had to put a Z bend in the float wire to get it short enough so the float didn't hit top or bottom.
 
The Drake tank fit perfectly. Only removal trouble was the rusted-up spring-loaded bolt on the tank front-flange .... had to saws-all the old tank flange to get tank out.

Re fuel sender unit issue, Drake wants one to use their 12v unit, so i had to remove my existing 12v>6v voltage reducer at dash gauge. I hoped to use OE sender unit which works fine. Drake's outer tank flange bolt pattern matches the OE spacing but make their tank opening for the sender a bit too small for the OE to drop-in. So I adjusted the arm on their sender per the box directions, put it and we'll see how it behaves. Only options: (1) make Drake's tank hole larger = sawing their tank flange opening slightly larger, and that would require removal of new tank .... a PIA. (2) The OE sender has its mechanism on its underside enclosed in a housing, which due to its diameter prevents its installation in the Drake tank. I notice Drake does not enclose their sender mechanism which is also on the underside, so why not remove the OE enclosure so it can fit into the tank opening (???) I am concerned about electrical sparking in any mechanism.
 
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