Agent Orange
New member
Something is incorrect.
Front Fenders Hit the Shocks?
- Thread starter Old Newbie
- Start date
rotorwrench
Well-known member
The shock body does appear to be upside down but the reservoir cap in not positioned correctly either so someone was playing around with them at some point. If both front ones are that way then they will have to have some work done to get them to fit. Now whether they will work or not is another story. The rear ones mount more on an angle but I'd be curious if any of them were put together correctly or not.
Houdaille didn't have interchangeability with these units as far as the wing shaft to body fit up. Each one was hand fit which makes it very important to keep all parts from one shock separate from other ones. I would wonder how the flange covers are arranged inside there and whether the air vent plug pins are in the right place. Most rebuilders will make match marks in appropriate places before disassembly. This way they will put everything back in the right place.
Houdaille didn't have interchangeability with these units as far as the wing shaft to body fit up. Each one was hand fit which makes it very important to keep all parts from one shock separate from other ones. I would wonder how the flange covers are arranged inside there and whether the air vent plug pins are in the right place. Most rebuilders will make match marks in appropriate places before disassembly. This way they will put everything back in the right place.
Old Newbie
Member
Wow. Lots to digest. These shocks came as they are photographed already assembled and mounted to the chassis. Seems like I should at the very least try to swap them right to left. I'm not sure what I'd get into if I pulled out the Les Andrews' book and tried to rebuild them. Can they be saved? How difficult a task is that? I understand the comment on hex head bolts. Lots of them placed by whoever assembled this chassis.
jw hash
Well-known member
the shock is upside down. the covers are installed incorrectly. hopefully they put the rest of the shock together correct. if you remove the shock from the car and remove the cover from the shock. and take a picture looking down on the shock, posts it on FB so we can see where the vent holes are located on the inner nut . you might get lucky and will be only the covers.
rotorwrench
Well-known member
The Les Andrews book is good but not much for good photos. One of the Restorer series of books has a good run down on shock repairs with photos. Hopefully the reservoir covers will come off a bit easier due to the fact that they've been off before. There is a lock ring that is used to set the filler location for that cover. There are basically only two seals for the reservoir cover and that's about it.
Shocks that are crusty don't disassembly very easy and many times they are rusted up so bad that they are basically boat anchors. Folks even put them in a charcoal grill and bake them for a way to loosen things up. The valve on the one in the photo on post 17 looks to be in poor condition. I'd love to tell a person that they will be easy to repair and they will work like a champ but this is not a common outcome for these old units. Bill Stipe's shocks are expensive but they work better than the old originals since they are made to some scale of precision unlike the old originals.
Shocks that are crusty don't disassembly very easy and many times they are rusted up so bad that they are basically boat anchors. Folks even put them in a charcoal grill and bake them for a way to loosen things up. The valve on the one in the photo on post 17 looks to be in poor condition. I'd love to tell a person that they will be easy to repair and they will work like a champ but this is not a common outcome for these old units. Bill Stipe's shocks are expensive but they work better than the old originals since they are made to some scale of precision unlike the old originals.
Y-Blockhead
Well-known member
Here is a picture of my RF shock. As you can see there is not any interference with the fender. This is a Stipe shock.
Cape Codder
Well-known member
Y-Blockhead - What is that attached to your tie rod in the above picture?
Old Newbie
Member
Well, here's my likely final post regarding this issue. I removed both shocks .. The arms are free but have next to no resistance or "shock effect". Removed the drain plug from each shock. There was next to no fluid in either shock. Read everything I could get my hands on about how to disassemble them. Managed to get the locking or retaining ring to back off on one of the two shocks. The other won't budge. Once the locking ring was backed off of the one shock I tried to remove the cover. Nothing doing. Used a pipe wrench and an old-style spanning oil filter wrench. I guess next it's four hours in a charcoal grill. Not for this guy. It's either already rebuilt originals, modern style tube shocks or friction shocks for me. Anyone want two original shocks? I also have two rusted originals on the rear of another chassis that some one cut the arms off of years ago. Apparently he gave up too.
Tacoma Bob
Well-known member
I recommend Stipe machine co. shocks. Don't cringe at the cost they are well worth the $$$$.
Y-Blockhead
Well-known member
That is the mount for a steering damper. It was on the car when I bought it several years ago. I took it off when I installed a new front spring. I could not feel any difference.
700rpm
Well-known member
I put Stipes on my coupe. They made a huge difference in the ride!
It takes serious anchoring of old shocks on something solidly attached to the floor and/or a wall, then being able to adequately grip it, using about a six-foot handle to get enough moment and torque.
Then if you can get them apart, you find most originals are junk. My justifications for buying Stipes was: they look original; they work beautifully; I’ve got a car worth $14-15,000, so why would I not put good quality into restoration and maintenance?
It takes serious anchoring of old shocks on something solidly attached to the floor and/or a wall, then being able to adequately grip it, using about a six-foot handle to get enough moment and torque.
Then if you can get them apart, you find most originals are junk. My justifications for buying Stipes was: they look original; they work beautifully; I’ve got a car worth $14-15,000, so why would I not put good quality into restoration and maintenance?
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