Shakey Can follow-up/Recommendation

rockfla

Well-known member
SO
Here is a follow-up on a piece on the 32 that I am "restoring" to put back the way it was.......I tried hitting it with some standard ole rustoleum gloss black after spraying it with a couple few coats From a shakey can acid etch primer and I then sanded the primer coat with some 400 wet dry and sprayed it. The finish was terrible, a fair amount of "crazing" in the finish. So I wet sanded it with 600 wet/dry and tried again AND again the same result. SO some may remember my post about it and "Tim Ayers", Detonator and JOhn IN Illinois were a few of the players who chimmed in on methods and products. SO I followed Tim Ayers advice and wet sanded with 600 and then 1000 and followed Detonators advice and bought a can of Rustoleum 2X gloss black. This time I hung the prepped part in the morning sun for over an hour, Then hit the first coat.....LOOKED good. Let it sit in the sun for 45 to an hour and hit it with a second coat. Looked pretty good again. SO I let it sit and gas and hardened for two weeks, wet sanded again with 2000 this time and hit it two more coats!!!! MUCH better results than the first time!!!

NOW the question IS, would you sand with 3000 and buff it with some "perfectit" OR leave as IS OR other suggestion????
 

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<<NOW the question IS, would you sand with 3000 and buff it with some "perfectit" OR leave as IS OR other suggestion????>>

Leave it as is. Don't let the perfect be the enemy of the good. JMTCW
 
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What is that and where does it go? Not important but I am curious.

Charlie Stehens
Hood holds for a 32 Ford. Charlie Stephens....let me clarify......hood holds for a German Coach built 32 Ford. As you see they mount in the upper corners of the firewall and the arm swings up and holds the hood open!!! SEE AVATAR
 

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@Tim Ayers
The suggestion to put it in the sun for awhile was the sure ticket. Thanks for the TIP!!! AND as others posted on my previous post Rustoleum 2X is pretty good stuff and I recommend it. As others stated, shake it till your arm is ready to fall off.....then shake it for 10 minutes more before you spray it!!!!
 
Here is a photo of my model A fender that I just last week sanded down the orange peel with 3000 and did the 3 stages of 3M Perfect It. That product is amazing. However note with your small part, it would be difficult to get the full effect of DA polishing. I suggest trying an excellent caranuba wax first.. and leave it at that. You have a lot more to think on in your restoration. Good luck!
 

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Here is a photo of my model A fender that I just last week sanded down the orange peel with 3000 and did the 3 stages of 3M Perfect It. That product is amazing. However note with your small part, it would be difficult to get the full effect of DA polishing. I suggest trying an excellent caranuba wax first.. and leave it at that. You have a lot more to think on in your restoration. Good luck!
Damn, that looks great Digger!!! I was wondering IF I just touched the flats with a wool bonnet on a straight buffer just bumping the trigger (not full power) IF perfectit would take out "most" of the orange peel??? OR doing the 3000 first then the above???
 
My Experience is that a buffer and rattle can paint don;t mix well.. You may rid it of the "Peel" but it will haze. A buffer and or compound in my opinion only works well with true automotive paints.
 
My Experience is that a buffer and rattle can paint don;t mix well.. You may rid it of the "Peel" but it will haze. A buffer and or compound in my opinion only works well with true automotive paints.
Thanks for the info Mike.......I "may" just have to be happy with what I have then.


What about maybe 3000 wet/dry and then some "Clear"??
 
Hey Rockfla,

Glad my tip worked for you. If you want to try it, I've had great luck keeping the heat on the part using a heat lamp.
 
I have an old "built-in" home oven I use for powder coating. Usually, when I paint small parts, I put them in the oven for a short time at about 150 degrees. It seems to help.
 
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