Decided to pull the motor/trans

Chris in WNC said:
.125 over will be a great runner.....fast on the highway.
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That it does. Before, it ran nice at 40-45 MPH but would start to vibrate at 50 and vibrate something fierce over 50. Now, runs nice up to 55 (will go faster but I'm not interested in going faster) with very little vibration. By "very little" I don't mean smooth as butter like a modern car just that it doesn't act like it's going to shake itself to pieces. I still run it around 45 just to keep the RPM in what seems like a reasonable zone. It does have ONE thing that annoys me and that is valve ticking. Not sure what to make of it as I know we (a buddy of mine and me) set them at .012 as recommended. Being solid lifters this may be normal but I don't recall hearing it on other cars running posted online. Might have to recheck all my valve clearances. I don't have adjustable lifters so if I have to re-adjust them, it will be a PITA (ANOTHER head gasket :(). Another issue is that the trans is leaking. Pretty sure it's from the tower gasket (and I use that term loosely). Gasket looked like it was made from writing paper. Will check that out today and if that is the issue, will go with silicone.
 
Pulled the floor to fix trans leak and found that it was leaking because I hadn't tightened the bolts in the shift tower. Also found out why the leak was getting progressively worse. Figured that since it was laking the trans would be low so i pulled the filler plug to top it up and found that, in fact it was over full with a mixture of oil and grease. Obviously the corn head grease that I put in the ujojnt is going through the bearing into the trans. No wonder it was easy to shift. drained the "oil" from the trans and refilled. Will have to monitor it I guess. Not sure what is the best route to take on the joint. Let it find it's level?, put chassis grease in it?, remove the CH grease first? (not sure how to do that). Might have just put way too much and forced it into the trans (took just over a tube).
 
The next time you pull the trans you might check the second third sliding gear on the main shaft, you said it was jumping out of gear. Ford recommended changing that if the main shaft needed replace, many people concluded Henry was trying to sell parts. You can check that by grabbing the gear when the tower is off and try to move the gear by a wobble on the shaft. The amount of clearance necessary should be only enough so that the gear slides slowly on the shaft with oil in a vertical position. Been there done that, and it’s not always the easy fix by tightening the spring and plungers in the shift tower. Bearings on your main shaft will swap oil and or grease if those bearings don’t have seals in them. Leaking from the trans to the front of the bell housing, can be eliminated with a real deal transmission seal from Mitchell.
 
Licensed to kill said:
Sounds reasonable. I haven't done the final finish hone yet so can easily add a thou or two. It would actually make me feel better anyway as .002 seems pretty tight to me. Thanks
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What sort of hone are you using? I did not think you could go up a size with just a hone, not criticizing, it is the sort of thing I would like to do.

Brendan
 
Brendan1959 said:
What sort of hone are you using? I did not think you could go up a size with just a hone, not criticizing, it is the sort of thing I would like to do.

Brendan
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I used a micrometer hone and bore dial indicator. Works pretty slick but patience are required. I won't be volunteering to do a V16 anytime soon:D. 5" stones that alley equal pressure over their entire length. Once you remove the taper it's just a matter of honing until you get your desired bore size. I used a HD Makita 1/2" drill and would get .001-.002 before have to quit to let the drill cool. Tedious job but satisfying when it's done. https://www.amazon.ca/Lisle-LI15000...ocphy=9001286&hvtargid=pla-471524085560&psc=1
 
Licensed to kill said:
Tore the ****** down. Gears are rounded on the tips and one tooth on one (don't recall which one) has a small chip. Not sure what to do there. $1000 for all new guts for a car that will see MAYBE 1000 miles a year???. Trans works well but would jump out of second when pulling. Hate to put it back together as is but...........I've got tomorrow to ponder and look them over again. Interesting note, Rather than two roller bearings and a spacer in the cluster it had three roller bearings. two short and one long. Also, rather than snap rings to hold the main bearings, there is a ridge cast into the case. Sure this is a model year thing just don't know enough about these to know what year.
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Why drive it only a 1000 miles a year. I drive mine between 5000 & 6000 miles a year, drive it enjoy it and you will get way more life out of it between repairs.
 
GerryAllen said:
Why drive it only a 1000 miles a year.
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Because our work takes up most of the summer leaving VERY little "me" time and what little time i do get is divided between a few different toys. I addition to this Model A fordor, I have the Model A truck in my avatar, a '57 Chevy short step BBW pickup, a .28 model A sedan and a Solstice to drive in the summer. Last summer I licensed the Solstice, '57 truck and Model A truck and was only able to put less than 1000 mile between the three of them. This year I licensed the Model A fordor, '57 truck and Solstice and have put 1 drive on the Solstice (about 100 miles), a few drives on the '57 (maybe 300 miles) and 800 miles on the fordor. In a couple weeks work will start back up and that will be it for the toys for this year. I drive one of them every chance i get, just not a lot of chances.
 
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