Off shore adjustable lifters

Pete, Thanks.. All this talk about everyone using only adjustable lifters made me wonder

I agree that once I was schooled and acquired the old trick tools for the job, I can do a set of non adjustables in less than a hour, and I'm not building these things every day or week like you guys. Adjustables always take me longer and many cuss words are said when using them.... for me anyways...

After two bad experiences I'll NEVER use adjustables again, and not have to worry about them loosening up..




Michael- I agree as well. I reground an original set of non adjustable lifters when I recently built my 8CM (We have a Sunnen tappet grinder at work). Really doesn't take much stock removal to make the lifters "new" again, and they are properly hardened plenty deep enough to do so. Like you say, not much time to adjust the valves correctly and they'll stay where you put 'em. The stock lifters are a quality piece!
By the way, the LZ springs you supplied were perfect for my needs...thanks.



Terry
 
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Given the material that has worn or 'flaked' off the one lifter, there has to be some wear on the cam. You should really think about putting a new cam in it. Send a PM to PETE (on this thread) and send him a stock cam to have it reground. His work is second to none and he has a lot of different grinds to choose from. Your engine has a bunch of good parts in it - might as well make sure that the critical top-end portion of it is as good as it can be.

Many of us have learned, that one of the most important parts of a flathead build is --- the cam, the lifters and the valves . . . do it right now and you'll be happy for a long time. ;)
 
“ The biggest selling point for adjustables is, they can be installed by anyone in their back yard with no special tools other than a common nail.”
This is the reason I would use them. I don’t own a valve grinding machine and for the couple of motors I have planned.... it wouldn’t be worth that expense.... Mark
 
Thanks to all who have responded with such excellent tech lifter info. Really a good learning experience as well as "who to go to" for grinding.
 
If you are inclined to change cams you will be happy you have adjustables.
In the 80s I had a Kawasaki motorcycle that had valve adjustment as part of the 6000 mile checkup. These were not hard to do as there were adjusters on the rocker arms and they were all close enough that I think it was just added dealer profit to the sale.
I also remember doing a valve adjustment on a Plymouth Turismo which had a Volkswagen engine as part of a mileage checkup. These had buckets over the lifters with shims. Measure the clearance and then measure the shims and add or subtract to see what the new shim should be. Ideally you should have a shim selection on hand.
I often wondered if something like this could be adapted to the flathead when I heard people complain about the thread being too loose on the adjustables. Probably be more expensive in the long run.
 
I am about to buy adjustable lifters for my build. This discussion has me worried. What number should I be looking for when performing a hardness test.
Thanks
Pete
 
I am about to buy adjustable lifters for my build. This discussion has me worried. What number should I be looking for when performing a hardness test.
Thanks
Pete

Hi Pete, if you buy the ORIGINAL "Johnson" tappets you'll have no issues, under no circumstances would I buy any "Johnson-Style" ones!

We haven't had a single "bad" OEM "Johnson" lifter since we began using them back around 1980 or so, not one!

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. Most up here have no real way to check "hardness", BUT, everyone can check the adjusting nuts for "flatness", the "Johnsons" have a radius on the nuts where they contact the valve tips. This isn't a "fluke", it's part of the design to make the lifters actually function correctly! If the nuts are flat on top avoid using them!
 
I am about to buy adjustable lifters for my build. This discussion has me worried. What number should I be looking for when performing a hardness test.
Thanks
Pete

Why worry? Just buy a set of Johnson adjustable lifters from Topline as Gary suggests or buy them from Gary; "Gosfast" Then you are assured of getting the real thing.
Ken
 
Closer look at the Cam in this motor (Max1 ). From the looks of this photo valve most have hit hard on valve pocket in the A head .
 

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Not sure what you mean by the "valve hit hard on the valve pocket"? Are you talking about the flattened wear on the nose of the cam lobe in the picture?

If so, this is just wear from the lifter/cam eating away at each other . . . has nothing to do with the valves.

As I noted earlier, you'll not be able to reuse this cam. If this was my engine, I'd find a good used stock cam, then send it to Pete (on this thread) and have him regrind it to a profile/grind that will work well in your engine. You might try a 1007B grind . . . depending on the rest of the package, the application and what you're looking for (sound, idle, low-end versus higher-end HP, etc).
 
I have installed a set of JAX adj. lifters (Vintage Valve Components) from Flathead Jacks made in California. The company quotes a rockwell reading of 55. After this discussion I checked the valve clearances and valve lift to determine if there was a problem. All was good. There is about 10,000 miles on them..
 
Flathead Jack is no more. And it sounds like Johnson's from Gosfast are not gonna be available for a while either: https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=284685

Hi "Al, not exactly, BUT (and this is huge but) to purchase the 92 per/tray pkge deal the price is actually going to "double" due to the new pricing structure??

We've been comfortable selling these original "Johnson's" for about $220.00/16 we feel this is still a fair price in todays market!

With this "new" pricing structure it will cause them to cost $440.00/16 (out the door). At this level we refuse to handle them any longer?

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. I have to add this here however, we are in the middle of negotiating with Paul at Topline, all is still up in the air. We already do have a "Plan-B" and we may initiate it soon , this will keep the cost close to where we were?? And they WILL still be the OEM Johnson's. I will stay on this and hopefully resolve it all soon?
 
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Sounds like the manufacturer might be wanting to get out of the vintage lifter business.

It can't be very lucrative compared to modern engine lifters.
 
Hi "Al, not exactly, BUT (and this is huge but) to purchase the 92 per/tray pkge deal the price is actually going to "double" due to the new pricing structure??

We've been comfortable selling these original "Johnson's" for about $220.00/16 we feel this is still a fair price in todays market!

With this "new" pricing structure it will cause them to cost $440.00/16 (out the door). At this level we refuse to handle them any longer?

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. I have to add this here however, we are in the middle of negotiating with Paul at Topline, all is still up in the air. We already do have a "Plan-B" and we may initiate it soon , this will keep the cost close to where we were?? And they WILL still be the OEM Johnson's. I will stay on this and hopefully resolve to all soon?

Gary, you should give me a call sometime. I'd like to send you a set of lifters ad get your opinion on them.
 
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With the pricing information "GOSFAST" is providing, it does not surprise me that "Flathead Jack" would not try to inject himself into the situation to take advantage of it.

I remember being impressed by my initial exposure to "Flathead Jack"'s product line. Then, I got a look at his pricing structure and moved on. I never bought a thing from him and left him and his operation to cater to the "Gold Chainers".
 
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