The Retirement Roadster- A-V8 Project

[Psych]

Some of you may have remembered this car from last year when it appeared in the Forum and then in the swap section. I received some offers, but nothing I was able to work with. I decided to use the car to build a traditional A-V8 driver. I modified the doors for a flush fit and the gas tank to accept a complete set of SW gauges. I attached a few picture to show progress made this Winter. I included a picture of what it looked like in the Fall to jog memories. More to follow.

 

[jerry shook]

looking good i know you will enjoy it . god bless

 

[Jack 34pu]

Man! I sure would love to have that Flathead, frame and suspension for my 28pu project!! Great looking work. What transmission are you using and did you have to cut the torque tube?

Jack 34pu

 

[IrishHills]

Yea Baby !!!!!!!

 

[Richard Wilson]

I bet you could sell it now!

 

[Psych]

Jack 34pu, to answer your question, the ****** is a 38 Ford. The rear end is a 40 Ford with a shortened 40 torque tube and hollow drive shaft (36 I believe). The 40 drive shaft spline adapter fits into the shortened hollow drive shaft. There is a little play, so it must be shimmed before welding. A dial indicator gets it right on. The forty torque tube has a long non tapered area so it is easy to cut and weld. Have done a few, so will be willing to answer any other questions. More pictures to follow.

 

[Chuck Sea/Tac]

Do you have anti chatter rods on it? Didn't see them.
Chuck

 

[hardtimes]

Jack 34pu, to answer your question, the ****** is a 38 Ford. The rear end is a 40 Ford with a shortened 40 torque tube and hollow drive shaft (36 I believe). The 40 drive shaft spline adapter fits into the shortened hollow drive shaft. There is a little play, so it must be shimmed before welding. A dial indicator gets it right on. The forty torque tube has a long non tapered area so it is easy to cut and weld. Have done a few, so will be willing to answer any other questions. More pictures to follow.

very nice!
Q..why the kick up front mounts..why necessary?
Q..is engine 8BA ford or 8CM merc..looks to be merc?
Q.. boxed A frame?

 

[Psych]

Thanks for the comments. You are right, there are no anti-chatter rods. I usually do not use them. The engine is a rebuilt Merc that I did for another application, hence the car water pumps. When I decided to use the engine in the roadster, I didn't want to buy another new set of pump(truck pumps would have worked better) so I used the new ones I had and built up the mounts. Merc mounts seem to protrude too much and hit the hood when I mocked it up so I used the normal rubber cushions and raised the mounting surface. It also helped with lower water hose clearance to the cross member. The frame is an original Model A frame that I boxed. Since its a 40 rearend with the rear spring behind the axle, the back of the frame was lengthened to compensate for the difference (to keep the wheel base the same) and was stepped slightly to even up the stance with the four inch dropped front axle.

 

[Psych]

A few more pictures showing the saddle tanks (Tanks Inc.) and the exhaust system. Found out the hard way that you should mount the gas tanks first and then fit the hairpins if you are using them. Mine needed to be shortened a little and the brackets had to be re-positioned to clear the gas tanks.

 

[a banger]

Nice project ,you must of had a cold winter , lots of progress . What are you planning for brake&clutch pedals ? looking good.

 

[hardtimes]

Thanks for the comments. You are right, there are no anti-chatter rods. I usually do not use them. The engine is a rebuilt Merc that I did for another application, hence the car water pumps. When I decided to use the engine in the roadster, I didn't want to buy another new set of pump(truck pumps would have worked better) so I used the new ones I had and built up the mounts. Merc mounts seem to protrude too much and hit the hood when I mocked it up so I used the normal rubber cushions and raised the mounting surface. It also helped with lower water hose clearance to the cross member. The frame is an original Model A frame that I boxed. Since its a 40 rearend with the rear spring behind the axle, the back of the frame was lengthened to compensate for the difference (to keep the wheel base the same) and was stepped slightly to even up the stance with the four inch dropped front axle.

yeah, i can see that youve got more clearanec for the crank pulley/exhaust than with lower front mts, but reason i ask originally, was wondering if driveline ANGLE would be negatively impacted?
also, with saddle tanks...you are going to run splash aprons, no?? nice work

 

[Psych]

I have attached some pictures on the pedal assemblies. They are from Speedway. Require some fabrication in the old gas tank area for mounting and firewall strength. Have included a picture of how the master cylinders and clutch cylinder look on a completed firewall. The clutch slave cylinder is mounted to a simple "L" bracket attached to the top ****** bolts. The drive shaft angle does not seem to be negatively impacted.