Modern one piece valve guide removal

bettlesr

bettlesr

Senior Member
My engine has the one piece straight valve guides. A couple of the intakes are leaking oil up to the intake valves. Can these be removed by pressing/driving them down without removing the cam and lifters? I already have the valves and springs...etc removed. I figure I should fix this while waiting for .100 over rings for Ross pistons.
Thanks for your time and assistance.
Dick
 
You do remove the guide by driving down. I have not tried to remove with lifters in. In my minds eye it seems they would not clear top of lifters. You could check foR room with a new guide.


John
 
As I recall installing them, the guides go in after the lifters are in and they are held in place only by the valve spring. If they go in with the lifters in, they should come out with them in. That said, the warranty ran out years ago on my memory.
 
Gee,reckon installing them is a snap with the cam and lifters out..you say your waiting on rings?pull the cam while your at it,make the job easy
 
You should be able to knock them down with a driver. If they hit a lifter either turn the motor over so they clear or just cut them off and drive the rest out.
You will have to recut the seats after you put the new quides in.
 
Go a different direction with it. Use a 23/64 drill bit to enlarge the hole and then thread the inside of the guide with a 7/16-14 tap. Screw a piece of threaded rod into the guide and set-up a bridge across the seat area. Use a well-lubed nut and flat washer to pull the threaded rod upwards. You will need to build the bridge high enough, -or use a piece of 2" pipe to raise the pulling nut high enough for guide clearance as it comes out.
 
Another option is bronze liners put in the guides
unless the leak you talk about is leaking between the guide and the block
 
Synchro909 said:
As I recall installing them, the guides go in after the lifters are in and they are held in place only by the valve spring. If they go in with the lifters in, they should come out with them in. That said, the warranty ran out years ago on my memory.
Click to expand...
These are the straight sided modern guides. They are pounded in from the top and held by friction.
 
BRENT in 10-uh-C said:
Go a different direction with it. Use a 23/64 drill bit to enlarge the hole and then thread the inside of the guide with a 7/16-14 tap. Screw a piece of threaded rod into the guide and set-up a bridge across the seat area. Use a well-lubed nut and flat washer to pull the threaded rod upwards. You will need to build the bridge high enough, -or use a piece of 2" pipe to raise the pulling nut high enough for guide clearance as it comes out.
Click to expand...
That's a great idea.
 
As the engine is still in the car, I don't want to pull the cam & lifters out. So, I think Brent's advice will be the best way to go. Thanks to all for your inputs.
 
Kurt in NJ said:
Another option is bronze liners put in the guides
unless the leak you talk about is leaking between the guide and the block
Click to expand...

Very highly recommended here, we do them for members up here almost weekly?

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. Also recommend using "Viton" stem seals on the (8) intake guides, totally eliminates excessive oil getting sucked into the chambers?
 
Engine work done on an engine stand results in a higher quality repair performed by a comfortable mechanic.The good feeling from time and labor saved by not pulling the engine fades when working bent over in cramped quarters.Good luck.
 
P.S. Also recommend using "Viton" stem seals on the (8) intake guides, totally eliminates excessive oil getting sucked into the chambers?
Click to expand...

Most Model A's only have 4 intake guides, unless you're talking about the split guides, then you have 8 (1/2 guides).
 
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Kurt in NJ said:
Another option is bronze liners put in the guides
unless the leak you talk about is leaking between the guide and the block
Click to expand...

bettlesr said:
As the engine is still in the car, I don't want to pull the cam & lifters out. So, I think Brent's advice will be the best way to go. Thanks to all for your inputs.
Click to expand...

The Bronze liners should have been done first..!
If you remove the guides,..you will need to do another valve job!
djm
 
I removed the guides as Brent suggested. They came out with no problems. Before I installed the new guides, I machined the reduced diameter from the the end back until I was close to where the old guide was in the block. That made it a lot easier to get started straight. I then machined the tip of the guide to accept a seal. I got a straight punch (1/2" diameter) for my air chisel and machined the tip so the first 1/2" was the same diameter as the valve stem and slowly pressed them in. To get the seals on, I made a driver like the bigger one they came with and pressed them on using my valve spring compressor. Hardest part was getting the bigger valve springs back in as they hit the lifters. Slid the bottom of the spring up on a stiff scraper resting on the lifter, compressed the spring and then slid the keeper under it. From this point it was easy.
I kept the area clean by stuffing rags inside the chamber before drilling and tapping, removed the rags and checked around the chamber with a strong magnet to get the last few chips.
After I adjust the valves the pistons will go back in ....etc. and then on the road again.

Thanks for all your help and suggestions.
 
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