Engine noise?

Reelnative

Reelnative

Member
I acquired a new noise over the past weekend, I thought it was a belt noise so I adjusted/ replaced the belt. Did not go away!!! I removed the belt and noise didn’t go away, stethoscoped the water pump, alt (6volt positive ground) with belt on, distributor with belt off, touched every nut and bolt I can think off but noise is still there. This is my daily driver and don’t want to damage anything else. What’s my next step?
 
What kind of noise?

How long have you had the car and how many miles have you driven it.

Model A’s car make all kinds of noises. Some just go away.

If it sounds like it’s in the top of engine, could be valve sticking. Marvel Oil in gas will help that.

I would not recommend rushing into taking things apart.

A dry distributor can also start making noises.

More info needed.

Enjoy.
 
Like WHN mentioned, what kind of of noise, what does it sound like. And were is it coming from ? A cheap auto store stethoscope, dowel, hose, can help locate it.
 
If it’s a squealing noise, kind of sounds like a fan belt? You might want to make sure the distributor is well oiled. How do I know this, you ask?
 
you are vague on the description... I had the starter rod just rubbing on the firewall and the noise was incredible for such a small contact...but the metal to metal was just right to sound much worse than it was. Check all pass through..... starter, gas, etc...........
 
jg61hawk said:
you are vague on the description... I had the starter rod just rubbing on the firewall and the noise was incredible for such a small contact...but the metal to metal was just right to sound much worse than it was. Check all pass through..... starter, gas, etc...........
Click to expand...

The starter rod is negative and the firewall is positive so if they are rubbing you are probably hearing electrical arcing.

John
 
The starter rod is negative and the firewall is positive so if they are rubbing you are probably hearing electrical arcing.


I'm polarized by the above statement



Shocking!




LOL !
 
I guess I stated wrong in post #7. Please explain when and how the sparks fly when the starter rod touches the firewall when the insulation in the rod retainer around the rod is missing. I don't understand - the plus battery cable is connected to the frame (firewall) so how does the negative post enter into the picture to cause the sparks?

John
 
Jack Shaft said:
Your starter switch is bad.
Click to expand...

How is it bad? It works and starts the car, the rod sparks when it touches the firewall because of no insulation in the rod centering retainer. I am just trying to understand the currant flow to cause this. Is it only when the switch is made or any time the rod touches the firewall?

John
 
aermotor said:
How is it bad? It works and starts the car, the rod sparks when it touches the firewall because of no insulation in the rod centering retainer. I am just trying to understand the currant flow to cause this. Is it only when the switch is made or any time the rod touches the firewall?

John
Click to expand...




There should be no electrons at all in the starter rod. Its insulated from the switch.
 
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