Temperature Gauge Leak

Unless I am missing something here (and I'm not the sharpest knife in the drawer) it seems that the fancy gooseneck is the issue here. Has anyone tried this gauge in a drilled and tapped standard gooseneck? Like Snyder,
Bratton's, and other vendors sell. What is the downside of the regular gooseneck in this situation? Jack
 
jhowes said:
Unless I am missing something here (and I'm not the sharpest knife in the drawer) it seems that the fancy gooseneck is the issue here. Has anyone tried this gauge in a drilled and tapped standard gooseneck? Like Snyder,
Bratton's, and other vendors sell. What is the downside of the regular gooseneck in this situation? Jack
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Same thoughts as well. However, perhaps you can get a straight brass coupling type adapter fitting similar to the T fitting in the instructions to move the probe out from the Vintage gooseneck? Check out Dixon Brass for example on line.
 
shew01 said:
Maybe I’m incorrect. “Adapter” threw me. There was nothing in the package except the temperature gauge and a mount kit for the dash. It sounds like you think a suitable adapter should have come with the gauge, if I’m reading your post correctly. Nothing like that came in the package.


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Yes, there should be another 'adapter' or 'fitting' that came with the gauge. This picture is directly from Speedways catalog. I drew a circle around what I'm referring to. I tried to explain to the best of my ablility. Good luck.
 

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jhowes said:
Unless I am missing something here (and I'm not the sharpest knife in the drawer) it seems that the fancy gooseneck is the issue here. Has anyone tried this gauge in a drilled and tapped standard gooseneck? Like Snyder,
Bratton's, and other vendors sell. What is the downside of the regular gooseneck in this situation? Jack
Click to expand...


The goose neck is not the issue. The adapter that screws into the goose neck is the issue, or, more likely, the nut on the new temperature gauge is the issue. (It turns out that the old temperature gauge nut screws into the new goose neck adapter fine and the old temperature gauge does not appear likely to leak.)

The downside of the regular gooseneck is that a thermostat tends to migrate toward the radiator. The new goose neck puts the thermostat adjacent to the block for more accurate temperature readings.


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Ruth said:
Yes, there should be another 'adapter' or 'fitting' that came with the gauge. This picture is directly from Speedways catalog. I drew a circle around what I'm referring to. I tried to explain to the best of my ablility. Good luck.
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That part is definitely missing in my shipment. Thanks for catching that.


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I had the car out for a test drive this morning, and I think the temperature gauge is reading about 20 degrees below actual water temperature, according to my temperature gun. So, it looks like I have 2 reasons to follow up with Speedway Motors.


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shew01 said:
I had the car out for a test drive this morning, and I think the temperature gauge is reading about 20 degrees below actual water temperature, according to my temperature gun. So, it looks like I have 2 reasons to follow up with Speedway Motors.


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I bought a Sun Pro temperature gauge once. It read ~20° low also. That is why I use SW gauges as mentioned in post #13. "Ya get whatcha pay for"
 
shew01 said:
I had the car out for a test drive this morning, and I think the temperature gauge is reading about 20 degrees below actual water temperature, according to my temperature gun. So, it looks like I have 2 reasons to follow up with Speedway Motors.


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Take the gauge and IR gun, measure a pot of boiling water to check calibration.
 
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I checked the calibration on the IR gun recently. It’s accurate.


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As I recall, I checked the thermostat in boiling water before installation a few weeks back. It opened correctly at 160. The gauge never gets above 142 degrees.


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Ruth said:
I would try to find out why it is not fitting before using an O ring. I asked earlier, didn't an adapter come with the gauge? They usually do.

IF you are going to go the O ring route, check on McmMaster-Carr (or similar for the best O ring for your application). https://www.mcmaster.com/o-rings

This is the gauge I use. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Stew...rature-Gauge-Mechanical-2-1-16-Inch,7150.html As you can see it comes with the proper adapter fitting.
Click to expand...


The O ring was only a temporary fix.

I ordered the gauge you cited, and it works like a champ. No mess, no fuss. It just works. Thanks for the tip.


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When quite cool out in early spring and late fall, with a thermostat, my gauge only gets up to about 140. I assume it is due to a combination of cold air on the motor, and the bypass holes I've drilled in the thermostat. I have to put cardboard over part of the radiator to get it to run in the 160 -180 range.
 
30 Closed Cab PU said:
When quite cool out in early spring and late fall, with a thermostat, my gauge only gets up to about 140. I assume it is due to a combination of cold air on the motor, and the bypass holes I've drilled in the thermostat. I have to put cardboard over part of the radiator to get it to run in the 160 -180 range.
Click to expand...


So far, my car idles at 160 degrees, and drives around 170. I have a new radiator from Bratton’s, and a new Vintage Precison water neck that came with a 160 thermostat.


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30 Closed Cab PU said:
When quite cool out in early spring and late fall, with a thermostat, my gauge only gets up to about 140. I assume it is due to a combination of cold air on the motor, and the bypass holes I've drilled in the thermostat. I have to put cardboard over part of the radiator to get it to run in the 160 -180 range.
Click to expand...

It sounds like the thermostat is either opening too soon or stuck open.
 
katy said:
It sounds like the thermostat is either opening too soon or stuck open.
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Tried a different thermostat, and tested with a thermometer in a pan of water on the stove. I have a Bergs radiator, with 3 1/8 in bypass holes, probe is in the block/head outlet neck, thermostat against the outlet neck. Gauge was calibrated on the stove in a pot of water using an IR gun and with a thermometer. Motor was recently rebuilt so does not have rust etc, and am running antifreeze.


Am OK with it as it is, Regulates fine with a 160 degree thermostat in the summer when temps are above 70 degrees.
 
30 Closed Cab PU said:
When quite cool out in early spring and late fall, with a thermostat, my gauge only gets up to about 140. I assume it is due to a combination of cold air on the motor, and the bypass holes I've drilled in the thermostat. I have to put cardboard over part of the radiator to get it to run in the 160 -180 range.
Click to expand...

Sounds to me like your bypass holes are too large allowing too much circulation when the thermostat is closed. At 140°f your thermostat should be closed.
 
Ruth said:
Sounds to me like your bypass holes are too large allowing too much circulation when the thermostat is closed. At 140°f your thermostat should be closed.
Click to expand...


That is also what I have assumed to be going on. But would rather too much bypass instead of not enough and blow up cylinder 4. I do not do much driving in the early spring and late fall, so as I said above this is OK. If going on a longer drive than errands/around town I just block the lower 1/3rd of the radiator and all is good.
 
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