Ballast resistor
- Thread starter 30-9
- Start date
How is the ballast mounted? I see two flathead screws but are there nuts or just screwed in?
The screws just seem to turn so I assume there are nuts. Are the nuts under the voltage regulator?
Last question what is the box (looks like transformer) next to the resistor?
The screws just seem to turn so I assume there are nuts. Are the nuts under the voltage regulator?
Last question what is the box (looks like transformer) next to the resistor?
Last edited:
JSeery
Member Emeritus
The Box is the Circuit Breaker for the lights. Should not have any relationship to the mounting of the Voltage Regulator.
Per the wiring diagrams 39s should still have the fuse, Ford went to the Circuit Breaker in 40. So not sure if it is a later model year change or if it has been upgraded along the way. Should look something like this.
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JayChicago
Well-known member
Symptom would be low voltage at the coil. With engine stopped should be about 3 volt. (the voltage drop thru the resistor is about 3 volt)
Test voltage at the coil. If low, work back to see where problem is. Should have 3 volt at the output side of resistor. Should have 6 volt at input side of resistor. Should have 6 volt output at switch, 6 volt input to switch. (all these voltages can vary a few tenths of a volt, depending on you battery voltage, connections, etc)
As you are working in the garage, you should minimize the time the ignition switch is on. Turn off switch after each test. With engine stopped, there is full maximum amperage running thru the circuit, is hard on the coil.
And don't touch the resistor while on; it gets very hot, very quick.
And to add to the testing confusion the timing contacts in the distributor must be closed so that the coil is drawing current. Otherwise no point in doing voltage tests if the points are open and no current flowing through the resistor and ignition coil. The longer the resistor is powered up the hotter it will become (engine not running) and so its resistance will increase with temperature rise, causing voltage to reduce. These voltage tests have to be done quickly otherwise its all a waste of time. Better to test with engine running. Regards, Kevin.
JayChicago
Well-known member
And to add further to the testing confusion:
If testing with engine running, input voltage at the coil should have jumped up to about 4 volts. (duration of points-open, the resistor is producing no voltage drop) I have read 3.5 volts or more is needed for good ignition.
If testing with engine running, input voltage at the coil should have jumped up to about 4 volts. (duration of points-open, the resistor is producing no voltage drop) I have read 3.5 volts or more is needed for good ignition.
JayChicago
Well-known member
Theoretically, if the resistor's coiled wire came loose from it's housing it could produce an intermittent open circuit. Symptom would be like turning off the ignition switch, and maybe it would make contact again when cooled. But in the real world, the resistor almost never fails. They are very robust. Most original resistors still function just as when first installed.
For an intermittent ignition failure, I think the condenser, coil, loose wire connector, switch, distributor internals would all be more likely suspects.
For an intermittent ignition failure, I think the condenser, coil, loose wire connector, switch, distributor internals would all be more likely suspects.