Brake switch issues

DNLs1930

DNLs1930

Senior Member
Working on the brake lights and found the actuating rod has been off center long enough to wear the brake switch rod to a point AS WELL AS the rod end now has a semicircle worn into it...

How do I get the actuating brake rod to center over the hole the brake switch rod goes through?

I was thinking I need a new rod but not really sure that would solve the problem and I haven't been able to find a good diagram of the rod so I can compare what I have to what is supposed to be installed. The rod I have seems to have been "manipulated" (bent) to line up with the hole the brake switch rod feeds through.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_4244.jpg
    IMG_4244.jpg
    24.6 KB · Views: 86
  • IMG_4217.jpg
    IMG_4217.jpg
    29.2 KB · Views: 86
  • IMG_4221.jpg
    IMG_4221.jpg
    61.4 KB · Views: 75
I recommend you replace the brake light switch. From the photo it appears to be one of the poor quality reproductions from Asia that were around a number of years ago. They are very poorly made and do not have bushings at the front and rear. A&L produced some very good quality brake light switches about 10 years ago that most of the better suppliers now carry. They have a bronze bushing front and rear, and have quality electrical contacts.

Tom Endy
 
Bob C said:
Here's a link to a picture at Bratton's https://www.brattons.com/pedal-to-cross-shaft-rod-only.html
Click to expand...
Thanks Bob, I did see this part just wasn't sure it was the right one. (because it is straight :confused:)


chrs1961815 said:
Something is bent somewhere, the brake rod or one of the arms or a combination of both.
Click to expand...
YES INDEED!!! The brake rod looks like a lazy "S":eek:



Tom Endy said:
I recommend you replace the brake light switch. ... Tom Endy
Click to expand...
Thanks Tom I have read about the low quality switches and will check the options.
 
I had an issue a couple of years ago where the actuating rod was mis-aligned and would pop past the switch actuator and hang up. I was able to bend the rod (very soft) to get it to align, and replaced the switch at that time. No issues since then.
 
sinbad339 said:
I had an issue a couple of years ago where the actuating rod was mis-aligned and would pop past the switch actuator and hang up. I was able to bend the rod (very soft) to get it to align, and replaced the switch at that time. No issues since then.
Click to expand...


Yea mine did just that but then stayed that way for a LOOOOONG time to wear out a groove in the rod. It is pretty "mis-aligned" so thinking a new rod will be a tough fit, will get one tho just in case I mess up the original rod.



I'm thinking of trying to make some sort of weld on the face of the rod then grind it flush with the existing rod face, do the same to the switch and see how it works.



New "quality switch" and replacement rod will be waiting as backup and future correct repair.
 
Tom Endy said:
I recommend you replace the brake light switch. From the photo it appears to be one of the poor quality reproductions from Asia that were around a number of years ago. They are very poorly made and do not have bushings at the front and rear. A&L produced some very good quality brake light switches about 10 years ago that most of the better suppliers now carry. They have a bronze bushing front and rear, and have quality electrical contacts.

Tom Endy
Click to expand...

Tom is correct that the best switch was and is hopefully still made. The bronze bushing is typically a tip off to identifying the original and quality reproductions. A&L is no longer selling retail and only to the core retailers as I understand it. I would call Brattons or Bert’s and ask if they carry it. Steve at Bert’s may also have originals. The switch is not cheap but it is what it is. Fix end of rod and make sure alignment is good. A common problem with 30-31’s.
Larry Shepard
 
Last edited:
Both Bratton's and Snyder's carry the good quality A&L brake light switch. I just bought one from Bratton's, cost was $50. What is strange is that both also carry the poor quality switch for $7.50.

Tom Endy
 
By chance, does this vehicle have the rear of the engine supported on Float-A-Motor mounts? Can we see the Service Brake Cross-shaft to check if it is bent or using incorrect bushings? Either one of those that is causing the brake rod to be located in a different position than stock will cause the need to modified to align with the switch plunger.
 
BRENT in 10-uh-C said:
By chance, does this vehicle have the rear of the engine supported on Float-A-Motor mounts? Can we see the Service Brake Cross-shaft to check if it is bent or using incorrect bushings? Either one of those that is causing the brake rod to be located in a different position than stock will cause the need to modified to align with the switch plunger.
Click to expand...


Not sure on the Float A motor but based on pictures I have seen of the rear float mount I do not have one installed; and is the "Service Brake Cross-shaft" the shaft the pictured rod attaches to to transmit rotation to main brake rods?



One observation is the battery seems to be to wide and makes the rod need to travel more towards the center of the car... I will remeasure and see if that is actually the problem. Are there dimensions for a normal 6 volt battery listed somewhere? Those numbers would help a bunch!
 
Bob C said:
Group 1

Length: 9.00"
Width: 6.87"
Height: 8.75"
Click to expand...


Thank you!!



I would say the brake rod was certainly "flexed" in order to clear the battery. Now wondering if the battery is turned 90 degrees which is causing the problem...



I will have to go measure to determine orientation, but thinking the short side should go side to side and the long side fore and aft. Is that correct or not?





O and filled (welded) the groove and welded a shoulder onto the brake rod to make an actuating face for the brake switch and it works STILL plan to get new brake rod and switch just temp fixed until I can figure out the clearances.



THANKS AS ALWAYS
 
DNLs1930 said:
I will have to go measure to determine orientation, but thinking the short side should go side to side and the long side fore and aft. Is that correct or not?
Click to expand...

That’s the my car’s battery fits.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
BRENT in 10-uh-C said:
By chance, does this vehicle have the rear of the engine supported on Float-A-Motor mounts? Can we see the Service Brake Cross-shaft to check if it is bent or using incorrect bushings? Either one of those that is causing the brake rod to be located in a different position than stock will cause the need to modified to align with the switch plunger.
Click to expand...


Sup Brent in "10-uh-C":D
No Float A mount installed and bushings on the service shaft seem a little worn but not overly loose. I will get a piece of straight dowel rod and see if a straight brake rod will fit but it looks like the battery is in the way.

I diid measure the battery and it is the correct size and the "short side" is installed side to side.



Welded the groove and added a shoulder for the light switch to contact, reinstalled and the brake light works. Still plan to change the rod and light switch but gotta figure out the alignment issue first.


May be time for a full brake inspection and overhaul along with steering gear... Winter will be here soon so thinking those will be this winters projects.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top