condenser re-locating to coil

oldford2

oldford2

Well-known member
I received a PM from Moe up in Canada on details for moving the condenser up from the distributor to the coil. I tried to reply to his PM but there is no icon for attaching pictures in a pm (?) so I am posting it here in the forum for all. Make a piece of steel about 1/2 by 3 and drill a hole at the bottom and one at the top. Remove the condenser from down at the distributer. Mount the strip to the bolt that holds the coil. Then connect the condenser to the coil terminal that goes down to the distributer.
 

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Yea, I want to do that too! Went to remove my condenser today, and what a pain to get to it! (on a 37, on an aftermarket Mallory crab, with an electric fan in the way)

Anyone know of a downside to mounting the condenser off the remote coil like that?
 
This was brought up some years ago by 42 guy who raced flatheads. Some electric guys thought that because of the distance there was some drop in mili??? Bottom line was that for drivers this was a good re-location. The first time we have what we think is sudden ignition problem we take the first and easiest try which is to replace the condenser. Many times that is the answer. On the side of the road at night this is no fun.
So my opinion is there is no downside. My 46 has been like that for 10 years and the one time it started bucking and running poorly a new condenser took care of it. Easy change.
John
 
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A longer lead does add to the capacitance. If you look at a high-end condenser tester, it will have special short leads to be used when testing condensers for exactly this reason. Most Mallory distributors have a brass strap for connecting the condensers. Even with all of that, it probably doesn't make enough difference to be concerned about.

Given all of that, if you are making a longer condenser lead, use at least 12 gauge wire (10 is even better but sometimes a little unwieldly).
 
You can use a condenser from early 80's Mopar. when I started this, I was in touch Std. Blue Streak and they recommended AL111X. I have had the same condenser for 15 yrs, When I purchased them, they were still made in the USA.
 
G.M. said:
Th voltage to the coil
wants to be 4.0 volts.
Click to expand...

I think it should be noted for new guys that is with engine running or cranking, points opening and closing. For those working in the garage with engine stopped, about 3 volts at the coil is normal. Later when engine is turning, points open 20% of the time, no current flow and therefore no voltage drop thru the resistor 20% of the time, averaged voltage will then jump up to 3.5 to 4 volts.
 
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