Feedback on modern tube shocks for Model A's

fred93

Senior Member
I need some feed back on the tube type shocks that are available for the Model A's

Are they good for a driver car?

Which brand is the best?

I've had it with the original shocks! I had a set rebuilt ten years ago--the car was never driven --they started leaking with the car just sitting in the garage. Enough!!!
 
Fred, I know you have done a very good job with this car and have done a lot of research. I personally ran tube shocks for years and finally got rid of them. There are several different tube shock set ups available and others will chime in. I eventually went with Stipe Machine co. shocks. They are the one and only made in America shock that's as close to original as you will find. Well worth the money. Fully adjustable. Simply the best imho.
 
I have a set of tube shocks from one of the suppliers, and while better than nothing, they are a bit stiff. I took out a leaf from the front and back spring which helped. With the heavier cars that may not be necessary. Would like to find a softer shock that fits and if anyone knows how i can look that up or something would appreciate it.
 
i recently put a set of tube shocks on a 29 roadster pickup. They were bought from one of the better suppliers. I am very disappointed. They are very stiff and the ride is terrible. I will now order a set of Stipes. Money not spent was not money saved. I won't cheap out again .
 
What about the Armstrong lever shocks as used on the rear of an MGB? They bolt straight on. Work fine on my 35 flathead, yet to try on my A.
 
What about the Armstrong lever shocks as used on the rear of an MGB? They bolt straight on. Work fine on my 35 flathead, yet to try on my A.


From what I've read you can only use them on the back. Apparently they will interfere with the tie rod and brake rods up front.
 
Ken Davis shocks on one car and MG Midget/AH Sprite rear shocks on the other car. Both types work fine.
 
I have Snyder's tube shock kit on my Town Sedan. I like the Snyders kit because you don't drill the front axle and the shocks have eyes, not a straight shaft mount. The rear shocks are about right but the front shocks were too stiff, so I use VW bug shocks on the front (they fit on the Snyder's mounts). Car rides good now.
 
Installed a pair of Ken Davis shocks on the rear of my 30 roadster,they worked perfect felt the difference immediately.
 
Tube shocks on a model A are NOT for the average person. They require a lot of research and understanding on how they work and should be set up.
Tube shocks are the best thing you can put on a car if they are matched to the chassis FOR THE INTENDED USE.

Tube shocks have a bad rap for model A's because:
1 - People are unwilling to do the research.
2 - People are unwilling to spend the required money for race car shocks.
 
Tube shocks on a model A are NOT for the average person. They require a lot of research and understanding on how they work and should be set up.
Tube shocks are the best thing you can put on a car if they are matched to the chassis FOR THE INTENDED USE.

Tube shocks have a bad rap for model A's because:
1 - People are unwilling to do the research.
2 - People are unwilling to spend the required money for race car shocks.

Just what is the research you speak of? How much are the race car shocks for a model A?
 
I need some feed back on the tube type shocks that are available for the Model A's

Are they good for a driver car?

Which brand is the best?

I've had it with the original shocks! I had a set rebuilt ten years ago--the car was never driven --they started leaking with the car just sitting in the garage. Enough!!!

Pete is giving best advice, that matches my experience !
However, I put MG (rebuilt) shocks on a model A Roadster. They gave a wonderful ride and steering control !!
Best part, rebuilds are very available....and cheap, compared to tubes and certainly Stipes ($1000+).
Nice to have choices, eh.
 
Just what is the research you speak of? How much are the race car shocks for a model A?

First, you have to know EXACTLY what you are after.
Assume a SOFT, well regulated, controlled ride.
Assume the chassis is in good condition. NO WORN parts. (no shocks will cure this)
Definitely required is an engineering background in hydraulics or working knowledge of same. (shocks are hydraulic devices)
You have to understand mass and acceleration. (needed to calculate damping factor)
You need to know how to find the rate of the springs in your car.
You have to figure out how much physical room you have to mount shocks in the ideal position. The ideal position knowledge is acquired by basic learning principles and a library card.
The ideal position on a model A is definitely not where some of the kit suppliers locate them.

There are no race car shocks made for a model A, per se.
There are racing shocks that can be adapted to just about any vehicle.
I use eBay and watch for used ones from a midget or sprint car. Used ones are adequate for street use because they are usually changed long before they are
even half worn out. Sometimes they are brand new spares from a race team that quit and sold out. Used ones usually go for $50 or less each. There are adjustable ones but even the used cost is usually out of reach.
Race shocks are rated by a numbering system acording to compression and rebound damping factor. (stiffness) More stuff to learn.

"If it was easy/cheap, everyone would do it". (quote from ~)
 
I did my own thing with some $20 gabirals at a 45 angle and have friction shocks in the front. good bump dampening on both ends. the gabirels seem better than the friction. but that may be king pin bushing that are starting to get bad.
 
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