Temp gage acting stange

I have a 51 mercury flathead in my 36 ford pu. The temp gage shows off scale low when I start and drive for some time. After ample time for the engine to come to normal operating temperature, the gage still is off scale low. I return to the shop, and turn the ignition off. The temp gage almost immediately starts to register. The indicator shows a little below normal operating range within a minute or so. I have recently replaced the temp gage and capillary tube. I am wondering if maybe I have a stuck thermostat? of maybe the water pump is not working properly. Any ideas from any of you with experience like this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Lon.
 
I have a 51 mercury flathead in my 36 ford pu. The temp gage shows off scale low when I start and drive for some time. After ample time for the engine to come to normal operating temperature, the gage still is off scale low. I return to the shop, and turn the ignition off. The temp gage almost immediately starts to register. The indicator shows a little below normal operating range within a minute or so. I have recently replaced the temp gage and capillary tube. I am wondering if maybe I have a stuck thermostat? of maybe the water pump is not working properly. Any ideas from any of you with experience like this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Lon.

...
 
Last edited:
In reading his post he has a original mechanical gauge,not electric.So it has a probe with a capillary line and sight glass for the red fluid.
 
Lon, Capillary tube type gauges have a calibration mark on the glass tube which indicates the boiling point 212º F. This glass tube is adjustable within the gauge face to align with the corresponding temp mark on the gauge face. Yours appears to be adjusted too low, indicating a rise in temp at shutdown from heat soak, which is normal in any system.
 
Take the tube out and put in in a pan of boiling water. It should read hot if it's not close then gauge is faulty. Borrow your wife's good sauce pan for the test.
 
Lon, Capillary tube type gauges have a calibration mark on the glass tube which indicates the boiling point 212º F. This glass tube is adjustable within the gauge face to align with the corresponding temp mark on the gauge face. Yours appears to be adjusted too low, indicating a rise in temp at shutdown from heat soak, which is normal in any system.

Wow! I think I really missed the mark on my earlier response.
Your response seems to make more sense. That is IF the repop sending unit is working properly.

I have heard the repop gauges are not worth spit so if it were my car to diagnose, I'd surely make certain that is working before attempting to adjust the glass tube.
Plus, it (glass tube) would have to be WAY off for the gauge to read all the way below the low mark. I don't see where that would be possible.
 
On the 35-39 temp gauges the glass tube is fixed (base is crimped in the frame at the bottom and non adjustable).The face has tabs that crimp over the frame and not adjustable.I have worked on many of them.
 
On the 35-39 temp gauges the glass tube is fixed (base is crimped in the frame at the bottom and non adjustable).The face has tabs that crimp over the frame and not adjustable.I have worked on many of them.


Sorry to disagree with you. Look again.
 
I did and here is a close up pic of a 36 gauge.
 

Attachments

  • 36 temp gauge.jpg
    36 temp gauge.jpg
    79.7 KB · Views: 47
I did and here is a close up pic of a 36 gauge.


That's the head unit that mounts behind the gauge face. Looks a bit different than the '37-'39, but should still be adjustable as mounted on the gauge face. Look for a scribe mark on the glass tube, visible only from behind, to line up with the 212º mark on the gauge face. Also, as Marko39 says, the sending unit in boiling water should line up with the calibration mark.


EDIT: OK, I'll concede that the early units not only look different, but apparently are not able to calibrate as on the '37-'39, that feature perhaps an improvement for '37. There is one more issue involved here, that being that sending units are also specific to model, the depth being different than in other applications, which could affect the reading.
 
Last edited:
Will the 35-39 temp gauge units interchange with each other?
(Not the year specific faces but the actual working parts & glass column with the red liquid)
I could use a working thermometer temp gauge to accompany the electric one hidden in the glove box
 
Last edited:
Now back to the problem.

Could I have introduced an air bubble into the system such that the temp probe is in air rather than water? Perhaps the the thermostat is also stuck closed so that circulation is preventing the air bubble from clearing
 
Will the 35-39 temp gauge units interchange with each other?
(Not the year specific faces but the actual working parts & glass column with the red liquid)
I could use a working thermometer temp gauge to accompany the electric one hidden in the glove box


Not at all. Here is a 37-39,on the right.The frame is entirely different.I have put the 37-39 temp unit (glass tube w/capillary line) in a 35-36 gauge frame many times.The temp bulb on all the 35-39 temp gauges are identical.35-36 mount in the left w/pump and the 37-39 mount in the head with a NPT adapter.Neither are adjustable(meaning moving the glass tube up or down)
 

Attachments

  • 36 temp gauge.jpg
    36 temp gauge.jpg
    79.7 KB · Views: 6
  • 38 Temp gauge.jpg
    38 Temp gauge.jpg
    30.8 KB · Views: 6
Last edited:
Back
Top