'32 Ignition Lock Cylinder Removal

C

Charles Brock

Senior Member
I am restoring a '32 Column Drop and having trouble trying to remove the Ignition Lock Cylinder from the Column Drop. The pin has been drilled out and has been soaking in PB Blaster for a couple of days. The key is in, but unable to turn cylinder and pull out.
Any help on how to get Cylinder out ???
Thanks for all your help.
 
You may have drilled too far (or not far enough) and left a burr hanging up in the retaining pin hole. You will likely have to apply some force to the back of the lock cylinder with a hardwood dowel to push the lock cylinder out. Don't use a steel punch as you can ruin the lock cylinder by doing so. It is one of those lessons learned the hard way.
 
DavidG said:
You may have drilled too far (or not far enough) and left a burr hanging up in the retaining pin hole. You will likely have to apply some force to the back of the lock cylinder with a hardwood dowel to push the lock cylinder out. Don't use a steel punch as you can ruin the lock cylinder by doing so. It is one of those lessons learned the hard way.
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David, in the past, I have always been able to remove the Lock Cylinder and then remove the Steering Lock Barrel. Can the Steering Lock Barrel be removed with the Lock Cylinder in place? Thanks
 
If by steering lock barrel you mean the slotted cylindrical piece attached to the steering shaft with two set screws then yes, it can be removed separately, but only if the on/off lever is in the off position. Otherwise the vertical lock shaft is in the down position and engaged in the rectangular opening in the "lock barrel". If that's the case then you either have to free up the keyed lock cylinder so you can turn it to lift the vertical lock shaft or remove the keyed lock cylinder to achieve that result.
 
DavidG said:
If by steering lock barrel you mean the slotted cylindrical piece attached to the steering shaft with two set screws then yes, it can be removed separately, but only if the on/off lever is in the off position. Otherwise the vertical lock shaft is in the down position and engaged in the rectangular opening in the "lock barrel". If that's the case then you either have to free up the keyed lock cylinder so you can turn it to lift the vertical lock shaft or remove the keyed lock cylinder to achieve that result.[/QUOTE

David, No I'm referring to the Steering Lock Barrel that is inside the Column Drop that the Drive Pin and the Ignition Switch Lever are attached to.
I am under the impression that this can NOT be removed with the Lock Cylinder in place.
How do you get a drift to the back of the Lock Cylinder?
Thank you for all your help.
Click to expand...
 
Is your 'column drop' removed from the steering column tube? If so, you need to pull the pin that actuates the ignition switch brush. The inner end of that pin is serrated and it is tight fit. What I do to remove it is to clamp on the pin with a small pair of vice grip pliers and progressively pry around the ends of the jaws of the pliers to exert a gradual outward pull. Once that pin is removed you should be able slide the plunger downward through the hole in the off/on lever and clear of the lock cylinder which then gives an opening to get at the back of the keyed lock cylinder to force it out with a small hardwood dowel.


Be careful not to lose the little flat spring that fits in a vertical recess in the bore of the off/on lever. Should you lose it or if it is broken (not uncommon), Michael Driskell (Third Gen Automotive)has a replacement for that spring.
 
I have freed up the stubborn ones out with a small drift at an angle thru the hole where the pin goes after drilling the pin out carefully.
 
I have found that the lock cylinder will usually go into the drop a small amount further.
I have taken a socket that fits the outer part of the cylinder flat face, put a fiber washer under the socket and tap the cylinder maybe .010. inward. Then I hold the drop in my hand and smack the drop against a soft piece of wood. After a few raps the cylinder will go back to or farther than the original position. Sometimes I have been able to use a small drift in the brass pin hole that has been drilled out to gently pry the cylinder forth and back to start the loosening process. With patience and penetrate, numerous taps back in and smacks against the soft wood the cylinder will come out. I also use this method to remove a broken key that is in the off position. Patience and persistence are sometimes the best tools.
 
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I would be very careful in removing the shaft with the lock cylinder in place. The cylinder protrudes into the relief cut into the shaft and moves it up and down.
I have several shafts that have been damaged beyond repair from driving it out with the cylinder still in place.
I always remove the cylinder first.
As 34fordy described by soaking it and then tapping hopefully it will begin to move. I use piece of oak cut to the profile of the face on the cylinder. Working it back and forth over time usually works. Try turning the cylinder with a key may help turn it in place.
All these parts are almost 80 years old and very delicate. I never use a metal drift as they will usually damage or leave a mark on anything they are placed against. Over the years I have received quite a few damaged column drops and cylinders that are unrepairable usually because of improper over zealous removal methods.
 
32phil said:
I would be very careful in removing the shaft with the lock cylinder in place. The cylinder protrudes into the relief cut into the shaft and moves it up and down.
I have several shafts that have been damaged beyond repair from driving it out with the cylinder still in place.
I always remove the cylinder first.
As 34fordy described by soaking it and then tapping hopefully it will begin to move. I use piece of oak cut to the profile of the face on the cylinder. Working it back and forth over time usually works. Try turning the cylinder with a key may help turn it in place.
All these parts are almost 80 years old and very delicate. I never use a metal drift as they will usually damage or leave a mark on anything they are placed against. Over the years I have received quite a few damaged column drops and cylinders that are unrepairable usually because of improper over zealous removal methods.
Click to expand...

Phil, Thanks so much for your help. I have restored several of these column drops and have always removed the lock cylinder first in order to remove the shaft. I will try tapping. This cylinder is really frozen!
 
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