Clutch release arm pin removal

Johnny Nitro

Johnny Nitro

Member
Well, it finally happened. Was heading home with my best lady last night, and began to have trouble getting into first at stops. Was pretty bad by the time we made it into the garage. Took a look today hoping I just needed to adjust the pedal, but saw the infamous crack at the bottom of the clutch release arm.

I have a spare from an old bellhousing, but ordered the modern, stronger version from my favorite vendor, anyway.

Now, my question:

How do I remove the pin from the shaft? It doesn’t seem obvious if there is a taper, and it doesn’t seem peened.

I did a couple searches here, as I’m sure this has been covered, but could not find a direct answer to this point.

Thanks for your help!
 
If you can see both holes one may be a bit larger and or smaller. Easy tap and it should come right out. I too went with the more robust arm. Love it.
 
We've done a couple here and found that an air chisel with a punch bit will walk that pin right out from the bottom.
 
I hate to instill fear but here is my story.... several Club members had your same trouble, that prompted other members to get it before it gets you (change it before it breaks).
That was me "Fix it till ya break it"..LOL My pin was stuck with a capital S! I tapped it, pounded it, heated it and hit it harder, that's when it happened...... a clink-ping in the bell housing! Not a good sound! I slowly turned the clutch arm and it was very free, in fact so free it turned 360 deg! We all know "it should not outta be doing that" I then slid the shaft completely out of the bell housing. The next day I started pulling my engine.
Not sure why it happened but that's my story. Pictures show what I found in the bell housing. Fork, woodruff key and pin.
So Johnny Nitro go easy..........................
 

Attachments

  • resized bell housing 001.jpg
    resized bell housing 001.jpg
    91 KB · Views: 213
  • resized bell housing 002.jpg
    resized bell housing 002.jpg
    101.1 KB · Views: 196
Thanks for the warning, PalAl!

I always prepare for a job to take longer, and cost more than i originally plan. Case in point: I already broke my throwout bearing return spring while I was monkeying around with everything. Ordered two to be safe when I ordered the new arm!

Mike,
The air chisel idea sounds toot sweet!
 
Hello,
I had this happen to me . Yes the pin is tapered if you look at it should be able to see one end of pin is bigger diameter then other . Should be able to just use punch and hammer to remove pin , I at least was able too
 
The repro pin more than likely will be too big to fit in the hole. I had to massage the diameter a might to get it in all the way. I ordered a spare of those also.
 
The Master Cylinder said:
The repro pin more than likely will be too big to fit in the hole. I had to massage the diameter a might to get it in all the way. I ordered a spare of those also.
Click to expand...

I hope that’s the case, actually. I’m not having any luck hammering it out, and may have to resort to drilling. In that case I may need a slightly larger pin.
 
Instead of a pin, I use good quality grade 8 bolt with the shank, unthreaded, portion of the bolt long enough so all the threads are exposed and no threads are bearing on the lever or shaft. I use a lock nut and cut off any excess threads.


This makes it a lot easier if a repair at a later date is necessary.


I also use a grade 8 bolt for the clutch fork.


I have been doing this for a very many years an many old Fords with no failures.


Chris W.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top