The gas Gauge doesn't work on 56 T-Bird

[Old Redneck]

I got gas yesterday because it showed empty? After I got gas it still showed empty. Today I got in the trunk and remove the rubber covering and took off the plate covering the sending unit. It had one wire connected to the sending unit and a wire loose not connected. It look like a ground wire opposite to the wire coming from the gauge, I grounded the other wire and turn on the switch and the gauge went to full. Is the plain wire opposite the dash wire a ground wire or what?

 

[Dobie Gillis]

It's a ground wire, but somebody added it at some time. Originally the sender grounded through the metal tank to the frame.

 

[Old Redneck]

I think that ground wire is in the wrong place. It on the same place but on the other end where the wire from the dash gauge wire connect to on the tank unit. That just don't seam right. That like grounding the dash gauge wire to metal to see if the dash gauge is ok. I filled the tank up at the service station thinking that the gas was low which it was not low on gas.I need to drain out about 8 to 10 gallon of gas then hook up that ground wire to see if it goes to full.I think that ground wire doesn't belong there.If I am correct then pull the tank unit to see what the problem that it does not work. That ground wire had me fooled. I wonder where the fuze panel is hidden. I need to look for it.

 

[dmsfrr]

There is no fuse panel. Baby Birds don't have them.
The Fuel & Temp gauges get their power directly from the Ignition terminal of the key switch.

The fuel sender in the tank was 'supposed' to ground thru the body of the tank but it doesn't always work. An add-on ground wire from the body of the sender to the body of the car is sometimes needed and generally a good idea.

If grounding the gas tank end of the wire from the dash gauge makes the needle swing across then that part is working correctly.

With a full tank of gas if the sender is properly grounded and the gauge shows Full, drive it around for about 50 or so miles to see if the gauge drops towards 1/2 full.

If the extra ground wire is fastened to the same sender terminal as the dash gauge wire, that's not correct.
However, if an extra wire on the sender terminal has a small metal cylinder as part of it, that's a noise suppressor capacitor and part of the original wiring. (photo 2 below, with an aftermarket fuel gauge sender)

I still suggest a dedicated ground wire for the body of the sender because the fuel tanks were originally mounted with rubber and fiber insulating pads.

You don't have to drop the tank to remove the sender, it should pull straight up thru the hole in the trunk floor. Watch for gasket debris falling into the tank.
Do not assume a replacement fuel sender will work any better than the one you have. The original King-Seeley brand gauges do not work on 'resistance' the way newer ones do, they work on heat generated by current flow. They haven't been made for decades and replacements aren't the same.
diagram attached

 

[paul2748]

If the gauge does not work properly after trying the above, CASCO sells a gauge and sender combo that are compatible with each other.

 

[Old Redneck]

I was pretty sure that was not correct and disconnect it until I was sure what to do. I will pull the unit from the tank and see what the problem is.I am going to take about 5 gallon of gas out of the tank so when working it won't show full. I look under the dash and could not find a fuze panel. You help me there. Will let you know the outcome of the fuel gauge.

 

[54vicky]

as you by now realize that wire without a picture is in wrong place.when you get the gauge out carefully as you do not want to bend the arm (if it is not already)you may find the float may have sprung a leak and be full of fuel.that would be the best case as you can use the float from an aftermarket one if yours is beyond repair.if you do not want that option possibly you can source one.to test yours you may need another person to help (even if your float is shot)make sure you have a good ground on the gauge for sure.with the key on have the help slowly move the float arm top to bottom? while you watch the dash gauge if it moves through its range then you will know the gauge is still good.use one of the holes for mounting screws for the ground just make sure the other end is a good ground or you will be chasing your tail.good luck as already stated the KS gauges are one and only type.

 

[Old Redneck]

I got a lot of work with this Bird. Interior lights don't work, Heater motor don't work as it should, left air vent cable missing, Speedometer jumps up and down crazy and wipers??? That the start I have found wrong so far. The Volage regulator doesn't work correct. I got one from Advance Auto Parts because they will replace free for life. I went to NAPA and they said they were China junk also. No wonder my Sister did not drive the Bird much. Her Husband has a hard time chewing gum and walking. He never fix anything. His 63 Corvette he had I haven't started on it yet????? What have I got into. Right now it in the body shop being repaired because the driver of the towing C0. did not have it tied downright and it came loose and damage the front end. Its costing them a pretty penny.

 

[51504bat]

I got a lot of work with this Bird. Interior lights don't work, Heater motor don't work as it should, left air vent cable missing, Speedometer jumps up and down crazy and wipers??? That the start I have found wrong so far. The Volage regulator doesn't work correct. I got one from Advance Auto Parts because they will replace free for life. I went to NAPA and they said they were China junk also. No wonder my Sister did not drive the Bird much. Her Husband has a hard time chewing gum and walking. He never fix anything. His 63 Corvette he had I haven't started on it yet????? What have I got into. Right now it in the body shop being repaired because the driver of the towing C0. did not have it tied downright and it came loose and damage the front end. Its costing them a pretty penny.

It least it looks like the body shop knows something about Vette's. Keep at it. I'm sure you'll get everything sorted and it will be worth it in the long run.

 

[rotorwrench]

Ford was still using circuit breakers up into the 50s They generally only had a few fuses for stuff like the dome light, radio, and clock. I don't know about the little birds though.

The fuel quantity system is a King Seeley set up so it dosn't work like anything in the modern era. As was mentioned, there are no replacements for those senders. The 1956 should be 12-volt but they use a chopper type voltage regulator somewhere in the dash for the gauges. It dropped the voltage so that they could continue to use the old low voltage type components. Hopefully your old one can be made to work again.

If you don't have wiring diagrams, you need to get some. A lot of stuff is available for the little birds.

 

[dmsfrr]

... The 1956 should be 12-volt but they use a chopper type voltage regulator somewhere in the dash for the gauges. It dropped the voltage so that they could continue to use the old low voltage type components....

'56 (only) used a straight 12 volts for the gauges. The little voltage regulator for the dash gauges began in '57.

If the gauge does not work properly after trying the above, CASCO sells a gauge and sender combo that are compatible with each other.

Just FYI, here's a link to one, other T-Bird suppliers sell them also
https://www.classictbird.com/Fuel-G...v-56-Replacement-1-Per-car/productinfo/9280B/

I got a lot of work with this Bird. Interior lights don't work, ... Speedometer jumps up and down crazy ...

The fuse for the (only) courtesy/map light on the dash is a small glass one on the back end of the headlight switch, or the bulb may be burned out. The bulb socket pops out of the top rear of the fixture, above the radio chassis.

The speedo and its drive cable may need to be cleaned and lubricated. There should be a small hole for the speedo gauge bushing where the cable attaches. It takes a light machine oil. A tiny squirt of WD-40 first may loosen it up. If it still bounces it may need an internal cleaning, lube & adjustment.

If the cable is making noise it's binding in its housing. Undo both ends of the housing and I'll suggest removing it from the car, the next step is messy. Remove the drive cable from the housing and clean out the inside and wipe off the cable. Depending on how bad it is you may need some solvent or just some clean leftover ATF.
If needed you can insert a long wire thru the housing and fasten a small solvent or atf soaked rag to the end and pull it thru, much like cleaning a rifle. When done re-lubricate the cable and reinstall. A light grease may be used; graphite based or white lithium???. Different folks have preferences for the right lube to use. I'm open to suggestions. Some choices work out better than others for good reasons, almost any choice may be better than not fixing it.
.

 

[Old Redneck]

I went down to Advance Auto Parts and they ordered me another Voltage Regulator and a Fan Belt for the 32 Ford. I got a lifetime on the Voltage Regulator so its free for now. I been switching back and forth from the 32 and the T-Bird. The wire Wheels calls for inter tubes. They forget to send them with the tires.Does Casco have a catalogue? Hope so. Is that where you fellows deal. The 32 is complety original, no hot Rod. I keep all my cars as they were built. Except the 51 Chevy coupe. It has a GMC truck engine with a 3/4 Cam, Dual Carbs and Split Exhaust. Stock Mufflers but does sound good and fun to drive.

 

[dmsfrr]

For T-Bird specific parts I tend to use either Hill's or Casco, there are several other good T-Bird parts supply places.
I prefer Hill's or Casco because they are a couple of the few places that also do in-house restoration work and are familiar with actually using the parts they sell.
Either will send you a free catalog. They both have online ordering and very helpful Tech Support staff if you have any questions. This virus thing will have both of them slightly short-staffed for a while, so patience may occasionally be needed.

https://hillsresto.com/

https://www.classictbird.com/
.

 

[Old Redneck]

Hill's is not that far from me. It about 2 hours from me. That good. After this Virus deal I will go down there. Thank you.Here a picture of the Corvette with me. It was loaded right after the picture was taken. It came loose going down the hill.

 

[dmsfrr]

Hill's is not that far from me. ...

They've impressed me a couple times when I've called late in the day with an odd question the person on the phone couldn't answer...The owner (Marvin) called me back first thing the next morning with the information I needed instead of my question getting lost in the shuffle.

 

[miker98038]

Redneck, if those are the junkers and the rattle traps, I'd feel really bad if I saw the nice cars.

Casco and Hills are high on my list also. I tend to use Casco more often, just due to the western location.

 

[paul2748]

I use CASCO a lot and are very happy with their service. I also use Tee-Bird Parts in PA, again good service. I know Marvin Hill from the various TBird conventions I have gone to -he is a nice guy. I just was happy with CASCO so I haven't ordered from Hill's.

 

[Test Osterone]

They've impressed me a couple times when I've called late in the day with an odd question the person on the phone couldn't answer...The owner (Marvin) called me back first thing the next morning with the information I needed instead of my question getting lost in the shuffle.

Really nice that a vendor would take the time to call you back.


Question for you. Would like to get the ohms resistance for the fuel sender at E and F for the '57 TBrid. Or would you please direct me to where I can find these values?


Greatly appreciated.


My best,


Test

 

[dmsfrr]

...Question for you. Would like to get the ohms resistance for the fuel sender at E and F for the '57 TBrid. Or would you please direct me to where I can find these values?

Is the Fuel gauge not working correctly? Have you tested the Fuel gauge circuit for power and continuity?

Not sure where to find the electrical values of a '57 sender, but the Gauge is listed at 13 to 14 Ohms, top right corner of pg 66 in the Hills "AA" parts catalog.

A detailed description of the the Fuel gauge and Sender circuit (with images) is on pg 8-12 of the '57 Shop Manual.
.

 

[Test Osterone]

Thank you, dmsfrr.

Gauge has been intermittent and sluggish to show full after filling the tank. Now it shows empty till a right turn is made then it will read at 1/2.

Going to look at the connections tomorrow, check for voltage , and while there, check the sender as well.

I have the “Fix Your Ford” manual for ‘57 and will take a look at the wiring diagram too.

Thank you for responding. Greatly appreciated.

Test.

PS: I’ll post what is found.