I just need to adjust the idle?

Old Redneck

Old Redneck

Well-known member
On this Holly where do I adjust the idle? Here picture of the carb on my 56 T-Bird
 

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It looks to me that in the second photo the idle adj screw is about in the middle of the photo. It (I think) is the screw with the little spring under it. Should unscrew it for lower idle rpm's.
 
Ok I back off that black screw off where it was not touching. Made no difference BUT when I push on the other side of the black screw the idle came down real nice. I back off that screw 5 times and the idle stay high. You help me Thank you. I need to get some books on this rascal to make life more easy.
 
Sounds like there is a spring missing/broken that should pull the the linkage down to the slow idle position. The spring on my 302 is about a 1/2" in diameter and approx 6" long.
 
I just drove it around the block.I spray some WD40 on it to see if that helps. It was stuck seams to work ok now.The speedometer does not work? Hope it a easy fix. The carburetor works very nice now. It has a Micky Mouse Radio that has to go. Nothing but original radio. Blue Dot tail lights. Sell them at Hershey. This Redneck don't need that junk. Generator don't work also. I got my work cut out on this Junker.
 

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Old Redneck said:
... Generator don't work also. I got my work cut out on this Junker.
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If the car was sitting with the battery disconnected long enough the generator may just need to be polarized. It's worth a try and won't hurt in any case...

to Polarize the Generator...
* When the wiring job is done, before you start the engine, remove the Field wire from the voltage regulator and very briefly touch it to the Battery terminal of the voltage regulator (you will get a small spark) then reconnect the Field wire to it’s position on the voltage regulator. *

That carb looks like the stock '56 Bird setup.
 
I disconnect the field and touch the Batt. got spark. hook back up and started the car and batt still red light on. I will take the generator off and have it check out. I put 4 quarts of transmission fluid in it today. Thirsty. Now watch for leaks. I got the roof painted and will put it on Monday. Also had a little trip around the block. Tires are bumpy. Only 25 years old. Do you run radials on your T-Bird? If so what kind?
 

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I know pictures don't tell the whole story. I sense your a bit frustrated working on something different. But that's not a junker compared to what a lot of us started out with.

You've got way less work for a "driver" restoration than I did.

The radials in the more or less stock replacement size are a great improvement over bias plies. If you have to have the bias look, try the bias look radials. Sit down and have a beer before you look at the pricing. I've got them on my 32 hot rod, way better than the bias plies I built it with
 
Dad use to call my cars Junkers just to have fun with me. So that stuck and it don't make difference what shape my old car are in they are junkers. You fellows have been a great help and I want to say Thank You.I want to make this Thunderbird drive nice that my wife can drive it and enjoy it.
 
Old Redneck said:
Ok I back off that black screw off where it was not touching. Made no difference BUT when I push on the other side of the black screw the idle came down real nice. I back off that screw 5 times and the idle stay high. You help me Thank you. I need to get some books on this rascal to make life more easy.
Click to expand...

Check out my website, www.hotrodreverend.com/blog when you have time. I cover these Holley 4000 carburetors in detail. The guru on this site though is SalCicala - he should check in soon.

One link to help you get started...
https://www.hotrodreverend.com/post...y-4000-carburetors-2x4-intake-manifold-part-1
 

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Well, based on post #5, it sounds like the carburetor issue has been resolved. I'm guessing the choke wasn't completely opened, and was still on the fast idle cam on the opposite side of the carb.


Sal
 
It OK now the carb is working very nice now. Now on to the next problem's with the car. Not quit sure about the transmission taking 4 quarts to bring it up the normal mark. Is that normal to leak off while sitting for 12 years or more? I will half to watch it down the road.
 
Did you follow the procedure to check fluid? Car must be warmed up to operating temp. Run through the gears, then put in park. With the engine running, check level


With that many quarts being added, I would assume there is a bad leak somewhere.
 
That what I though that a bad leak. Today it did not leak a drop which surprise me. We will see down the road. I took the T-Bird down to the paint shop to get the top put on?? It been there all day trying to get the top on correct and they are not getting anywhere. They started 10 AM and at 5 PM they are not done yet. The brackets don't line up and they are trying to adjust them so they can fasten it down. We will see what tomorrow will bring I guess.
 
Hard Top? Is it the side brackets? If so, the top may have spread. . Be aware that the rear brackets changed style over the years so make sure the deck receptacle matches the top brackets. There may be another way, but using a strap hold down to pull in the sides and letting the top sit in the sun should bring it back. Adjust a little at a time.


In addition, if it's problem with the rear deck receptacles being too far back so the top doesn't line up with the front the receptacles are adjustable to a point.


Old Redneck said:
That what I though that a bad leak. Today it did not leak a drop which surprise me. We will see down the road. I took the T-Bird down to the paint shop to get the top put on?? It been there all day trying to get the top on correct and they are not getting anywhere. They started 10 AM and at 5 PM they are not done yet. The brackets don't line up and they are trying to adjust them so they can fasten it down. We will see what tomorrow will bring I guess.
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The comments on the top are correct, and IIRC you've got both tops. Getting both tops to fit can be a chore, even if you're recovering the convertible top. I finally gave up trying to get my hard top to "narrow", and pulled the side pins that go into the latch mechanism right behind the doors (kept the latches). If you've got the original swing arm on the soft top (which I need because it weighs a ton) it's another PITA. One side at a time, then back to the first side, repeat as needed. Even at that, the new weatherstripping needed shimming. Not to keep all the water out, just so you couldn't see thru the opening.

You mentioned the transmission. Early FOM were air cooled, later had a cooler in the radiator. Might take a look and see what you've got. They also start in second gear, if you're not familiar with them, just ask.

My Dad and his buddy had a couple war surplus boats in the early 50's. They rebuilt one, and never got to the other. They named that one "Junker", so I get it.
 
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I am running into putting the hard top on the T-Bird now. Its a ***** lining up both sides. The passenger side line up but the driver side the rear tie down off 2 inches. The hooks could be longer. Might half to make them. The body shop that painted the top is installing it. They worked 4 hours yesterday and how Manny today?????. Found rust on the rear edge of the deck lid. Needs to be cut off and new made. That what you get when you buy a antique car I guess.
 
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